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re: FYI for Ida victims: Roof-Tarp and Water Intrusion info for the next few days
Posted on 8/30/21 at 11:18 pm to stout
Posted on 8/30/21 at 11:18 pm to stout
I have a question for you Stout. Who do you recommend in La to go from a shingle roof to a metal roof? We had some damage from Laura and after some investigating of my 5 year old roof, I found out my builder placed Tamko shingles, instead of the Timberline shingles I wanted. Same color but a cheaper shingle. We have subsequently had damage and a roof that has aged with mold streaks a lot quicker than it should have. I have roughly a 8,000 sq ft roof and I want to put something more permanent, like standing seam or metal shingles that look like asphalt shingles. What are your thoughts for standing seam vs the metal looking shingles and do you recommend a company in La?
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Posted on 8/31/21 at 12:00 am to stout
I only had three tarps handy so I only got the bad spot. It's janky because I didn't have wood and used my fence boards to hold it down.
Gong to get the whole thing done hopefully early next week.
Gong to get the whole thing done hopefully early next week.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 4:05 am to The Spleen
Heard some company in Mandeville tried to charge an elder lady $4,000 to get one tree out of her yard.
Major price gouging going on when people are hurting big time.
Major price gouging going on when people are hurting big time.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 6:30 am to stout
I had 2 ft of water in my home and I have a few questions:
1) was going to cut out my sheet rock 3 ft above the floor. Is this a wise plan and is 3 ft the proper height to cut?
2) will I need a sheet rock saw to cut or just a knife? 3) I have Servpro coming in a week or 2…should I spray my studs with a mold remediation product or not. If yes what product to use?
Thanks a lot in advance.
1) was going to cut out my sheet rock 3 ft above the floor. Is this a wise plan and is 3 ft the proper height to cut?
2) will I need a sheet rock saw to cut or just a knife? 3) I have Servpro coming in a week or 2…should I spray my studs with a mold remediation product or not. If yes what product to use?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:20 am to PUB
There was a ton of tree companies in CCC early yesterday morning, first thing. Are people paying out of pocket and hoping to get reimbursed? That seems risky as hell.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:22 am to stout
LC everyone got roofs, missing shingles or not due to lifted shingles. 1st hand verification
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:26 am to fischd1
1. You’ll get two cuts per sheet at 3’, save the pay cut for a neighbor.
2, mixture of bleach and water n a pump sprayer will work that’s cheap.
3. Move as much air as possible to dry out house and Document work and damage for insurance.
2, mixture of bleach and water n a pump sprayer will work that’s cheap.
3. Move as much air as possible to dry out house and Document work and damage for insurance.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:28 am to fischd1
quote:
1) was going to cut out my sheet rock 3 ft above the floor. Is this a wise plan and is 3 ft the proper height to cut?
cut it to 4', allows you to lay a full sheet in side ways and saves a bunch of time.
quote:
2) will I need a sheet rock saw to cut or just a knife?
sharp knife and a couple runs. Measure, pop your line and then cut. Personally i would get a skill saw and set to proper depth, just cover anything you dont want to get dust on
quote:
3) I have Servpro coming in a week or 2
may god bless you
quote:
should I spray my studs with a mold remediation product or not
i personally would even though its prolly not needed. Get the sheetrock and insulation out asap whatever you do
This post was edited on 8/31/21 at 7:28 am
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:29 am to Homerun12
quote:
LC everyone got roofs, missing shingles or not due to lifted shingles. 1st hand verification
that is not true. Many got patch jobs. many are still fighting insurance.
just do what stout said and you will be fine.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:30 am to PUB
quote:
Heard some company in Mandeville tried to charge an elder lady $4,000 to get one tree out of her yard.
Major price gouging going on when people are hurting big time.
man that depends if they had to get a crain etc, lots of things go into that to know if its price gouging or not.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:32 am to Homerun12
quote:
LC everyone got roofs, missing shingles or not due to lifted shingles. 1st hand verification
This could not be more false. Insurance in Lake Charles has screwed a lot of people.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:32 am to Napoleon
quote:
I only had three tarps handy so I only got the bad spot. It's janky because I didn't have wood and used my fence boards to hold it down.
Gong to get the whole thing done hopefully early next week.
thats what we had the whole time. Had to fight progressive and until we started getting water in the house and threatened them did we get a new roof. had to wait almost 6 months.
we were missing ridges almost everywhere and had spray foam showing through in atleast 6 spots. had pictures of everything, still gave me a hard time.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:39 am to Captain Want
For Laura, I did not get a new roof. Adjuster (from out of state) recommended repair and not replacement. He never got on the roof and his only assessment was done by drone. Filed another claim after Delta. About the same as Laura as the replacement shingles from Laura were gone again. This time, the adjuster who was a cool dude from the West Bank, got on the roof. He said there were impact marks all over the roof. Far too many to count. He put in for a full replacement. After months of haggling and a threat of legal action, I got a new roof in January of this year.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:44 am to stout
This is really good info.
There are people that got screwed over left and right by contractors during Laura. Never let them deal directly with insurance and get a price in hand with a signed contract before they are allowed to do anything. If you let them screw you over, that money is gone. They come in from out of state, jack people around, and disappear.
For insurance, get a full estimated cost to repair from a contractor or public adjuster and immediately flip it to insurance as a proof of loss. This imposes certain settlement practice requirements on them that they can be subject to penalty for breaking. It’s the best, and only way to have leverage over them when you need it.
I can’t stress enough to people that insurance is not your friend. They are not looking to fix your house. They are looking to pay you the minimum amount that they can and get a release. Treat them accordingly. Always be polite, but only answer the questions asked and nothing more or less.
There are people that got screwed over left and right by contractors during Laura. Never let them deal directly with insurance and get a price in hand with a signed contract before they are allowed to do anything. If you let them screw you over, that money is gone. They come in from out of state, jack people around, and disappear.
For insurance, get a full estimated cost to repair from a contractor or public adjuster and immediately flip it to insurance as a proof of loss. This imposes certain settlement practice requirements on them that they can be subject to penalty for breaking. It’s the best, and only way to have leverage over them when you need it.
I can’t stress enough to people that insurance is not your friend. They are not looking to fix your house. They are looking to pay you the minimum amount that they can and get a release. Treat them accordingly. Always be polite, but only answer the questions asked and nothing more or less.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 8:02 am to Homerun12
quote:
LC everyone got roofs, missing shingles or not due to lifted shingles. 1st hand verification
Not true. There are several newer neighborhoods with denied claims for roof replacement. We argued lifted shingles, we argued granule loss, we tried to find enough debris impact locations, and went through more than one field adjuster inspection with the "ladder crews". Still denied. First-hand verification
Don't spread misinformation at a time when people need facts.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 8:16 am to fischd1
quote:
I had 2 ft of water in my home and I have a few questions:
1) was going to cut out my sheet rock 3 ft above the floor. Is this a wise plan and is 3 ft the proper height to cut?
Cut it at 4'. That should be your seem height anyway. Sheetrock is hung with two 4' sheets stacked horizontally on top of each other. Cutting at 3' is useless and more work.
quote:
2) will I need a sheet rock saw to cut or just a knife?
Razer blade
quote:
3) I have Servpro coming in a week or 2
Sorry to hear
quote:
should I spray my studs with a mold remediation product or not. If yes what product to use?
Thanks a lot in advance.
The biggest thing you want to do is dry them out before you start doing anything else. Air circulation is key. Set up any fans you can get your hands on and move air. Any company that comes in will set up commercial fans and dehumidifiers along with air scurbbers, etc. But getting a start on it will not hurt. If you have a dehumidifier then set it up as well but most people don't so just get it drying somehow. You can get a moisture meter like this one to measure the studs as they dry out. You can watch for mold but if you dry out fast enough you should be fine. Just for peace of mind, you can buy a mold test kit before you put the house back together.
People will tell you to use bleach but using bleach (water-based) is putting moisture back into something you are drying out. Use an antimicrobial agent if you are going to use anything. You can find products online or at a supply store. If you decide to seal the studs for extra precaution Zinser mold killing primer is what I would use over Kilz. It has antimircobial in it.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 8:18 am to lsu777
quote:
man that depends if they had to get a crain etc, lots of things go into that to know if its price gouging or not.
Yea tree crews will be high but without knowing more info $4K might not be bad.
People need to be careful though. Insurance will not pay or only pay a small amount for downed trees unless they are on a structure.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 8:21 am to Dixie Normus
quote:
For insurance, get a full estimated cost to repair from a contractor or public adjuster and immediately flip it to insurance as a proof of loss.
I would never give insurance my contractors bid first. Get the insurance estimate first then go from there.
Posted on 8/31/21 at 8:22 am to SPEEDY
quote:. Saved me a lot of headache. I recommend them. I was getting nowhere with my insurance company I then hired a public adjuster and a couple of months later issue resolved
about getting a public adjuster instead?
Posted on 8/31/21 at 8:58 am to stout
quote:
A really quick Xactimate estimate for a 25 sq job is pushing $383 per. I based it on a job we did a few months ago so that it would be pretty comparable as far as drip edge, pipe jacks,
For comparison, 10-15 years ago after storm claims(when rates are high) you would be at 220-250 a square
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