re: Car Audio Advice

Also OP crutchfield is a good place to check (you can probably find the components cheaper elsewhere though) and if you google "audio" plus you truck make/model I'm sure there are car audio forums out there with threads discussing so that would be a good resource for info as well.

Yeah I've done all of that but with car audio, there is so much more as far as specifics. Then there are people that say they need stuff that they really don't need for a basic upgrade. I'm not looking for super audiophile quality.

lol I think I have a stalker that just auto-downvotrs all my posts.

so your factory head unit in the toyota has a factory sound curve preset into it. You will need to detune this.

honestly your best bet is to go through tacotunes since you don't know much about it. get the plug and play either recurve or the amps and buy the replacement speakers off amazon or woofersetc

I am in the same position with my 2014 tundra, i have the jbl and the sound is horrible. I can have it all the way up and carry on a normal conversation.

btw stick to reputable brands.

Just my personal experience but Infinity is crap.

About five years ago I replaced all of the stock speakers in my truck with the same-size Infinitys plus an Infinity powered-subwoofer.

Within two years two of the speakers failed completely as well the amp in the powered subwoofer.

I had a guy put a new amp in the subwoofer and replaced the speakers with Polks.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Anybody have any experience with component vs coaxial speakers?

I haven't messed with car audio in over a decade, but I'll give advice on some things that almost certainly haven't changed:
1) amplifier is way more important than head unit. Back in the day, some of the vehicles that took place in sound quality competitions still used the stock HU.
2) Components are always of better quality than coaxials. The components should be the focus of your system.
3) I would use that 4 channel amp that you were considering to power your front components, then bridge the other 2 channels to power the sub. Disconnect or significantly attenuate the rear speakers.
4) An 8" sub should be enough if your "bumping days" are over. Someone mentioned JL earlier, they used to make really good subs.
5) After a quick look at woofersetc (they used to be a good site back in the day), Focal, CDT, JL, and Dynaudio all stand out. Make sure that whatever speakers you get will fit in your door.
6) Crutchfield is pretty shitty. Big markups.

Yes. Again, I would only have the front components and subwoofer playing any sound. You said you didn't like your current speakers, so why have them playing shitty sound, taking away from your fancy new components? You're not watching movies or playing video games, there's no need for surround sound.

Go with components. Should be 6.5 in door and tweeter in sail panel. Get the recurve from taco tunes and then no need to rewire as everything uses stock wiring after that. I repeat what I said earlier, go with a dsp like the recurve or ink ms-8 used or replace the head unit. You will not be able to get good sound out of the stock head unit that is in your truck due to the factory preset curve.

For speakers you can't go wrong with jl audio. For amps go with zapco. For rear fill just get a cheap coaxial, like the lowest line jl makes.

The sail panel is a clip on so I don't think that'll be hard.