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Started By
Message
Car Audio Advice
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:31 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:31 am
Looking to upgrade some of my audio in the truck. I am a retard when it comes to car audio but home audio I can do. I have a 2012 Tundra with no JBL
I wanted to upgrade at least my front speakers and leave the back stock because I really don't care about the "fill" noise being better.
I have the stock head unit and might either replace the head unit or get a 4 channel amp for the door speakers with a powered sub for bass.
My questions are:
Should I get the head unit first or the 4 channel amp?
Is it a big deal hooking up component speakers without an external amp or should I just go with coaxials?
What all do I need to keep my steering wheel controls?
What all accessories do I need to hook this stuff up?
Looking to buy an Android head unit (non Android Auto)
for coaxials ( Kappas or Polk MM or cheaper option of Polk DB)
Components ( Polk DB6501
Powered sub ( Rocksford Fosgate
I wanted to upgrade at least my front speakers and leave the back stock because I really don't care about the "fill" noise being better.
I have the stock head unit and might either replace the head unit or get a 4 channel amp for the door speakers with a powered sub for bass.
My questions are:
Should I get the head unit first or the 4 channel amp?
Is it a big deal hooking up component speakers without an external amp or should I just go with coaxials?
What all do I need to keep my steering wheel controls?
What all accessories do I need to hook this stuff up?
Looking to buy an Android head unit (non Android Auto)
for coaxials ( Kappas or Polk MM or cheaper option of Polk DB)
Components ( Polk DB6501
Powered sub ( Rocksford Fosgate
9
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:32 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
I have no advice to give, other than to throw some loose screws into your doors. That sounds awesome.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:33 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
quote:
Looking to upgrade some of my audio in the truck
quote:
I am a retard
Checks out.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:33 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
I actually prefer tens or eights to twelves- and Spring the extra $150 for a good capacitor if you can- you'll have really tight bass that won't drown out the sound and will sound much better
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:33 am to OysterPoBoy
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:36 am to The Cool No 9
quote:
I actually prefer tens or eights to twelves- and Spring the extra $150 for a good capacitor if you can- you'll have really tight bass that won't drown out the sound and will sound much better
Get both and send the right frequencies to each.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:36 am to OysterPoBoy
Help the handicapped man. You against helping disabled people?
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:37 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
quote:
Should I get the head unit first or the 4 channel amp?
you need both, but head unit first. however see below
quote:
Is it a big deal hooking up component speakers without an external amp or should I just go with coaxials?
if you are getting anything decent with your speakers, you need/want an amp
quote:
What all do I need to keep my steering wheel controls?
Probably need a specialized head unit or expensive harness. I'd recommend using stock head unit and something like JL clean sweep instead
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 11:38 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:38 am to The Cool No 9
quote:
Spring the extra $150 for a good capacitor if you can- you'll have really tight bass that won't drown out the sound and will sound much better
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:46 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
As long as your current head unit has an extra connection on the back for the powered sub I wouldn't change it out.
But I personally don't care for powered subs. I have (2) 10"s under the seat of my Silverado and they have very tight punchy bass that sounds good with every genre of music.
If you go with real subs an aftermarket head unit is definitely important. It's the only way you will be able to control everything in one spot so that should be first on your list but I would recommend doing it all at once to save yourself some time.
If I were you I'd go with two 8"s or 10"s under or behind the seat with a mono block amp to power them. Then replace my door speakers and and power them with a 4 channel highs amp.
That's my current set up and I love it.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:46 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/21/21 at 10:46 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:52 am to XanderCrews
quote:
audio control lc7i
Seen that before but don't know what it does. Is it something like a Line out converter?
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 11:56 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:55 am to SouthTiger504
The proper enclosure is really important for the subs as well, and I'm not sure how a truck would even accommodate that? I guess some work well with very limited space.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:55 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/21/21 at 10:46 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:56 am to XanderCrews
Couldn't I just use a Line out converter? Seems cheaper.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:57 am to DavidTheGnome
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/21/21 at 10:46 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:57 am to DavidTheGnome
I'm just wanting to add a little bass. Nothing too much. My bumpin' days are over....
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:58 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
Get JBL audio and you will thank me later
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 7:27 pm
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:58 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
quote:
I am a retard when it comes to car audio
Save your money. Just loosen the screws on your license plate. Your welcome.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 12:02 pm to biggsc
quote:
Get JBL audio and you will think me later
Back when I messed around with car audio for a bit I had Alpine and Infinity speakers and had great luck with each. An Infinty amp as well which was great.
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