- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Running power to my shed
Posted on 5/22/25 at 9:54 am
Posted on 5/22/25 at 9:54 am
So I have a shed that’s not powered. Would love to add some outlets and exterior and interior lights. I’ve been researching burying wire and seems pretty straight forward. Poke a hole through the exterior and connect some exterior 12/2 to my main panel and run it through conduit 12-18” deep depending on GFCI protection. It’s about 50’ from my house to the shed. Pop the conduit up and enter the shed then add my interior light, exterior light, put them on two separate switches. And then run some outlets. Probably will have a few interior ones and an exterior one. I currently run everything on extension cables back to the house on one 20 amp circuit and haven’t had much of an issue. The most high powered tools I have are a miter saw and 20 gallon air compressor. I’m just a one man show so I think at most I’d have a power tool, a dust collector, and maybe an air compressor potentially running all at once.
Should I just connect to my main panel and call it a day, or should I run a sub panel into the shed and then branch off of that?
Should I just connect to my main panel and call it a day, or should I run a sub panel into the shed and then branch off of that?
10
Posted on 5/22/25 at 10:26 am to jlovel7
I’m no electrician but it seems easier if you have the space and amps, use the existing main panel and bury some conduit and run it out there. No need for a sub panel for two breakers unless you plan to ever add more to it.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 10:37 am to jlovel7
Probably need to tell us more about the panel and appliances at the house and how big and permanent the “shed” is. I’ve never seen an 20 gallon air compressor running in anything I’d call a shed.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 10:47 am to Dallaswho
quote:
Probably need to tell us more about the panel and appliances at the house and how big and permanent the “shed” is. I’ve never seen an 20 gallon air compressor running in anything I’d call a shed.
Shed is 12x18. I mostly work outside on the patio in front of it. There’s a desk inside for smaller projects. It’s mostly to store and then my workspace is that patio that I organize depending on necessity.
ETA: could I have gotten away with a pancake? Sure. But wanted more future proofing and it wasn’t that bad to go up to 20.
This post was edited on 5/22/25 at 10:48 am
Posted on 5/22/25 at 11:50 am to jlovel7
Something worth considering.......
From the sounds of it, 1-20 amp circuit is probably fine. However, if I am going thru the trouble of knocking holes, digging, burying conduit, etc. I would at least pull 2-20 amp circuits. Even if you leave the second disconnected and coiled up on both ends, at least its already there if you do ever need it.
For something like this, I don't see the need for a sub panel. I mean then again, it wouldn't cost much more if you wanted to add a sub panel, run 240V from your main to it, and then run your branch circuits. The additional cost would be the cost of a small subpanel and larger wire (say you did a 50A main sub, I'd probably run #6 if its only 50ft).
From the sounds of it, 1-20 amp circuit is probably fine. However, if I am going thru the trouble of knocking holes, digging, burying conduit, etc. I would at least pull 2-20 amp circuits. Even if you leave the second disconnected and coiled up on both ends, at least its already there if you do ever need it.
For something like this, I don't see the need for a sub panel. I mean then again, it wouldn't cost much more if you wanted to add a sub panel, run 240V from your main to it, and then run your branch circuits. The additional cost would be the cost of a small subpanel and larger wire (say you did a 50A main sub, I'd probably run #6 if its only 50ft).
Posted on 5/22/25 at 11:55 am to southern686
Agree. Or at least a 30a 240 sub. That sounds like a decent sized building and work area so who knows what ideas he’s going to get next. Maybe a little climate control?
Posted on 5/22/25 at 1:24 pm to jlovel7
quote:
at most I’d have a power tool, a dust collector, and maybe an air compressor potentially running all at once
Running all 3 of these at once will almost certainly trip a single amp breaker. (Sizing up the wire could help with this to ensure minimal voltage drop.)
I would run 2 20amp circuits or a small subpanel to the shed and feed off of that. I would explore running conduit and THHN or some larger gauge wire rated for direct burial and some conduit for the risers. Make sure to check the charts for the amps of the different wires and make sure to take into account the voltage drop for different size wires.
When I wired my shop temporarily while building my house, I found some aluminum triplex direct burial wire for less than $150 from Nassau National Cable that I was able to run a 60amp subpanel with.
Summary: I would run at least 2 circuits whether that be supplied from the house or from a sub panel; check the voltage drop tables not just the amp rating tables; there are multiple configurations you could do I would price them all out and see what is easiest for you to DYI that accomplishes your goal.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 1:59 pm to jlovel7
Reposting my response to your previous tread about this so hope it helps. Will give you 2 20-amp circuits for next to nothing. No need for sub-panel as you will then need grounding.
50 ft 12/3 UF-B wire 100 bucks
20-amp 2 pole breaker 30 bucks
Configured as a multi-wire branch circuit with a shared neutral, that will give you two 20-amp 120-volt circuits in your shed for barely any more cost than a single 20-amp circuit and allow you to run bigger appliances if needed down the road.
50 ft 12/3 UF-B wire 100 bucks
20-amp 2 pole breaker 30 bucks
Configured as a multi-wire branch circuit with a shared neutral, that will give you two 20-amp 120-volt circuits in your shed for barely any more cost than a single 20-amp circuit and allow you to run bigger appliances if needed down the road.
This post was edited on 5/22/25 at 2:01 pm
Posted on 5/22/25 at 3:55 pm to Geauxld Finger
quote:
I’m no electrician but it seems easier if you have the space and amps, use the existing main panel and bury some conduit and run it out there. No need for a sub panel for two breakers unless you plan to ever add more to it.
I did this method with a shed I had in a backyard.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 4:19 pm to Major Dutch Schaefer
It sounds like the shed is not on a slab. I might consider an outside disconnect so the power can be quickly cut off if needed.
This post was edited on 5/22/25 at 4:20 pm
Posted on 5/22/25 at 6:52 pm to jlovel7
I bought a spool of 12/2 w/gnd UF-B direct burial cable for a project that never took place.
If you're in/near Baton Rouge, I'll make you a deal on it.
If you're in/near Baton Rouge, I'll make you a deal on it.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 7:08 pm to Dallaswho
quote:
Agree. Or at least a 30a 240 sub. That sounds like a decent sized building and work area so who knows what ideas he’s going to get next. Maybe a little climate control?
Should’ve added that. Yes plans for climate control. Amazon basics sells a tiny window unit I’m interested in and then kerosene heat for the winter.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 7:11 pm to jlovel7
Go 240 with a sub panel. Assuming your are in Louisiana and affected by hurricanes. You can also use the sub panel to backfeed from a portable generator
Posted on 5/22/25 at 7:13 pm to diat150
Another question on this. If I use liquid tight co suit, can I use regular Romex cable?
Posted on 5/22/25 at 7:21 pm to Unobtanium
quote:OP you should jump on that, that’s shite is expensive
I bought a spool of 12/2 w/gnd UF-B direct burial cable for a project that never took place.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 9:04 pm to jlovel7
Planning similar for my 20x12 shed. Half is storage half my workshop.
I actually plan to run 3 lines to it.
15 amp for lights
20 amp for half the outlets
20 amp for the other half
That way I can not worry about running a table saw on a set of outlets and the compressor kicking on the other.
If you're digging the trench, you're already doing the hard part.
I actually plan to run 3 lines to it.
15 amp for lights
20 amp for half the outlets
20 amp for the other half
That way I can not worry about running a table saw on a set of outlets and the compressor kicking on the other.
If you're digging the trench, you're already doing the hard part.
Posted on 5/22/25 at 9:14 pm to Unobtanium
Unobtanium, I’m your huckleberry. I need a pile of it for a few different projects. Have an email?
Posted on 5/22/25 at 10:19 pm to cgrand
quote:
quote:I bought a spool of 12/2 w/gnd UF-B direct burial cable for a project that never took place. OP you should jump on that, that’s shite is expensive
Sadly not in BR
Posted on 5/22/25 at 10:20 pm to BoogaBear
quote:
Planning similar for my 20x12 shed. Half is storage half my workshop. I actually plan to run 3 lines to it. 15 amp for lights 20 amp for half the outlets 20 amp for the other half That way I can not worry about running a table saw on a set of outlets and the compressor kicking on the other. If you're digging the trench, you're already doing the hard part
You’re right. I’m now considering doing a 60 amp subpanel. Wiring seems relatively simple.
Posted on 5/23/25 at 7:32 am to jlovel7
You can run the cable in one of two ways:
1) Conduit with THHN wire inside
2) Direct burial (no conduit) using UF rated cable.
Check local codes for proper burial depth for each method. I believe for direct burial UF cable it will be 2 feet depth, but you'll need to check.
One thing you can't do is use Romex, even inside conduit. Romex can never leave the confines of indoors. It is designed to run bare in dry locations. A lot of DIY'ers get this wrong.
You will need to size the wire properly for the run because of voltage drop issues. I would say #10 (at the very minimum) to reduce voltage drop. Once to the shed, then you splice it to #12 to run to outlets.
Personally, I would install a subpanel because it sounds like you will need more than one circuit.
Conclusion:
Hire a licensed and insured baw. You're already gonna need a backhoe and all that, so just hire an electrician while you're at it.
1) Conduit with THHN wire inside
2) Direct burial (no conduit) using UF rated cable.
Check local codes for proper burial depth for each method. I believe for direct burial UF cable it will be 2 feet depth, but you'll need to check.
One thing you can't do is use Romex, even inside conduit. Romex can never leave the confines of indoors. It is designed to run bare in dry locations. A lot of DIY'ers get this wrong.
You will need to size the wire properly for the run because of voltage drop issues. I would say #10 (at the very minimum) to reduce voltage drop. Once to the shed, then you splice it to #12 to run to outlets.
Personally, I would install a subpanel because it sounds like you will need more than one circuit.
Conclusion:
Hire a licensed and insured baw. You're already gonna need a backhoe and all that, so just hire an electrician while you're at it.
Page 1 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News