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re: i need a table saw
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:49 am to cgrand
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:49 am to cgrand
For ripping boards down to 1", I can't imagine that a tracksaw would be a better option. you would have to reset the tracks for every single piece. Table saw you set the fence once and then run the board through it until your are done.
1
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:49 am to cgrand
all I know is I bought a ryobi just to do some flooring work and it is complete trash because the fence was terrible. If you are doing it just for that kind of project spent the least amount of money on the saw that has the best rip fence.
Depends on how long the board is to determine if the track saw is an option. If you are ripping 10' or 12' boards to make flooring or trims, then track saw is a no go. If you have less than 8' then it probably not a bad idea.
quote:
For ripping boards down to 1", I can't imagine that a tracksaw would be a better option. you would have to reset the tracks for every single piece. Table saw you set the fence once and then run the board through it until your are done.
Depends on how long the board is to determine if the track saw is an option. If you are ripping 10' or 12' boards to make flooring or trims, then track saw is a no go. If you have less than 8' then it probably not a bad idea.
This post was edited on 7/17/25 at 9:52 am
Posted on 7/17/25 at 11:36 am to cgrand
For your needs I will recommend you go with the job site table saw. I’ve ripped miles of rough cut 1-bys and 2-bys. Plenty accurate for trim work (especially cypress) and plenty power to get the job done. Not expensive compared to the stationary table saw or a good track saw, which in this instance is not the best option. Also, storage, when not needed daily.
I know the Dewalt is good, pretty sure the Bosch is as well. Not familiar with others except I would not even think about a Ryobi for this job.
I know the Dewalt is good, pretty sure the Bosch is as well. Not familiar with others except I would not even think about a Ryobi for this job.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 11:53 am to 9rocket
Cheap saws tend to have blades that wobble or oscillate. They are fine for rough framing and such, but certainly not for trim.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 12:07 pm to cgrand
I bought a cheap Black & Decker. Threw out the blade that came with it and swapped it out for a carbide blade. I keep the fence accurate by raising the blade all the way up, then measuring from both the front and the back of the blade. It seems to cut very accurately with that setup.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 4:02 pm to cgrand
The Dewalt jobsite saw is probably what would serve you best. Solid rack and pinion fence, medium duty motor, and very portable.
LINK
I used one of these for about 8 years myself until i upgraded to a cabinet saw this spring. Dewalt also makes a version of this saw without the mobile stand that's about $250 cheaper.
You don't want to use a track saw for trim work unless you want it to take a couple of lifetimes. You want the repeatability of a table saw.
LINK
I used one of these for about 8 years myself until i upgraded to a cabinet saw this spring. Dewalt also makes a version of this saw without the mobile stand that's about $250 cheaper.
You don't want to use a track saw for trim work unless you want it to take a couple of lifetimes. You want the repeatability of a table saw.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 4:41 pm to Bamafig
I agree. However, I would not consider the Dewalt a cheap saw. I’ve used one for trim for a couple of decades and it’s never failed. If it’s something I feel absolutely must be done on a stationary table saw I just cut it at home.
I wouldn’t try to build cabinets with it, but I’m not a cabinet guy, but for what cgrand wants one for this is a good choice.
I wouldn’t try to build cabinets with it, but I’m not a cabinet guy, but for what cgrand wants one for this is a good choice.
This post was edited on 7/17/25 at 4:49 pm
Posted on 7/18/25 at 7:28 am to 9rocket
Thanks all I found a dewalt locally
Posted on 7/18/25 at 9:02 am to Hermit Crab
quote:
For ripping boards down to 1", I can't imagine that a tracksaw would be a better option
He'll go crazy doing that.
Buy a jobsite/contractor saw and be done with it. Like the other poster said, I also have a Bosch 4100 and use it almost daily. Folds up and is stored in a corner and is spot on accurate.
Posted on 7/18/25 at 9:39 am to cgrand
Ok just going to throw my 2 cents in.
A track saw is great. I have a Makita with 2 long tracks I use to break down 4x8 sheet goods. For that, it's better and safer than a table saw.
But a table saw is king. I have a nice Powermatic 2000BT with the black Armor Glide. The 240v 3 hp motor iss a beast and it's accurate as all get out. Accurate to the point that even for cross cutting, I use the table saw and not my miter saw. I use the miter saw as a quick way to break down lumber into close dimensions. Say I need a 24" board, I'll cut it on the miter saw to 24 1/2" then square and true it on either a crosscut sled on my table saw or my shooting board and shooting plane. Depending on the size.
On a good cabinet table saw you can use a good dado stack and those are awesome. Makes cutting half laps and tenon a breeze. You can also cut bridles, castles and raised panels.
If it's a big timber that is not jointed flat, I do NOT rip it on my table saw for fear of kickback, I use my big bandsaw for nasty rips like that. For instance, ripping the pith out of a syp 2x12 is done on my bandsaw, not table saw. If it's didn't have a band saw, I'd use my track saw and not my table saw. Those boards are never flat and the pith causes a lot of tension which can cause kickback.
Anyway, in my opinion, the table saw is such an integral part of woodworking that do not skimp on that purchase.
As far as that Dewalt contractor saw, it's a nice saw. My dad is now in his 80s and has downsized and that's what he uses.
You'll miss out on capacity and the ability to use dado stacks, but you'll have no problems making rips and crosscut.
If you need to upgrade the Dewalt miter gauge, I like the Incra 1000SE. I have one and it's great.
A track saw is great. I have a Makita with 2 long tracks I use to break down 4x8 sheet goods. For that, it's better and safer than a table saw.
But a table saw is king. I have a nice Powermatic 2000BT with the black Armor Glide. The 240v 3 hp motor iss a beast and it's accurate as all get out. Accurate to the point that even for cross cutting, I use the table saw and not my miter saw. I use the miter saw as a quick way to break down lumber into close dimensions. Say I need a 24" board, I'll cut it on the miter saw to 24 1/2" then square and true it on either a crosscut sled on my table saw or my shooting board and shooting plane. Depending on the size.
On a good cabinet table saw you can use a good dado stack and those are awesome. Makes cutting half laps and tenon a breeze. You can also cut bridles, castles and raised panels.
If it's a big timber that is not jointed flat, I do NOT rip it on my table saw for fear of kickback, I use my big bandsaw for nasty rips like that. For instance, ripping the pith out of a syp 2x12 is done on my bandsaw, not table saw. If it's didn't have a band saw, I'd use my track saw and not my table saw. Those boards are never flat and the pith causes a lot of tension which can cause kickback.
Anyway, in my opinion, the table saw is such an integral part of woodworking that do not skimp on that purchase.
As far as that Dewalt contractor saw, it's a nice saw. My dad is now in his 80s and has downsized and that's what he uses.
You'll miss out on capacity and the ability to use dado stacks, but you'll have no problems making rips and crosscut.
If you need to upgrade the Dewalt miter gauge, I like the Incra 1000SE. I have one and it's great.
This post was edited on 7/18/25 at 9:52 am
Posted on 7/18/25 at 9:55 am to El Segundo Guy
There's nothing better than nice joinery with no gaps and no hardware. The only way to do that consistently is with accurate and precise equipment.
Trying to frick with lumber that's not jointed, square and the right dimensions isnt woodworking, it's framing.
Being able to do a nice edge panel glue up without dominoes, biscuits or dowels and have no gaps is a fun exercise. If your tools arent set up properly, you have to force the joint closed with clamps which pits a ton of tension on the board and can cause warping or cupping. Take the time to dial your fence in. The fence is where a lot of inexpensive saws have issues.
Trying to frick with lumber that's not jointed, square and the right dimensions isnt woodworking, it's framing.
Being able to do a nice edge panel glue up without dominoes, biscuits or dowels and have no gaps is a fun exercise. If your tools arent set up properly, you have to force the joint closed with clamps which pits a ton of tension on the board and can cause warping or cupping. Take the time to dial your fence in. The fence is where a lot of inexpensive saws have issues.
This post was edited on 7/18/25 at 10:02 am
Posted on 7/18/25 at 10:41 am to cgrand
Have you considered a band saw?
For small trim work, this might serve you well.
For small trim work, this might serve you well.
Posted on 7/20/25 at 9:28 am to cgrand
Bought this one last year! All good so far.
Posted on 8/27/25 at 10:50 am to cgrand
all digits present and accounted for
the temptation to grab the blade is something i didnt expect
Posted on 8/27/25 at 11:04 am to cgrand
Track saws are great but making consistent size cuts repeatedly you need a table saw. I have a Bosch and I’ll be honest it’s been put through hell. Still works great. Can’t go wrong with a Dewalt either. You can always find some plans for panel feeds. But I generally use my track saw if I need to cut bigger panels.
Posted on 8/27/25 at 10:46 pm to Clames
quote:
Dewalt jobsite saw is what I have and recommend
I have this.
It's a great product.
Posted on 8/27/25 at 11:19 pm to cgrand
quote:
the temptation to grab the blade is something i didnt expect
Never had that. I also don't stand anywhere I could catch a piece of wood if it got kicked back, could get seriously hurt/killed. I set my table saw such that the in-feed and out-feed sides aren't directed at any structure or vehicle, especially the window parts. Even a stick of MDF can punch out a window pane.
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