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Started By
Message
Help trouble shooting Hustler Raptor that won’t crank -UPDATE - it was the starter
Posted on 9/27/24 at 9:24 pm
Posted on 9/27/24 at 9:24 pm
I cut grass last weekend without issue. When I went to restart the mower to put it in my shop, all I got was a click. I did some research and most of it said it was probably the solenoid. I replaced it this week and it’s still just clicking when I try to crank it. I changed the battery and still just clicking. I did the “tap” on the starter and still nothing. My next step is to check all the wiring and see if there’s a lose or dirty connection somewhere.
Anyone have any suggestions??
Anyone have any suggestions??
This post was edited on 10/2/24 at 6:02 pm
9
Posted on 9/27/24 at 9:34 pm to Glock17
Did you forget to disengage the blades? Ashamed to say I did this when I first got my Raptor. Similar situation. But if the limit switches on the lap bars are out of adjustment you might not be pushing the buttons when you put the mower in “park”. If it’s not simple like the blades being engaged I’d push those in with my fingers or something and try it.
Posted on 9/27/24 at 9:38 pm to Glock17
If the solenoid clicks. You're getting voltage to the solenoid. May not be enough voltage to start it. Check volts at battery with multi-meter. Should be 12+ volts. If volts are good. Put it in neutral and touch a screw driver across both bolts/poles on the solenoid and see if engine turn over.
Posted on 9/27/24 at 10:20 pm to Glock17
Should be able to find a wiring diagram for the mower. If you replaced the solenoid and the battery, it’s either a disconnect in the permissive circuit or a bad starter.
I’d measure the voltage coming out of the solenoid and see if it’s getting the 12v to the starter. If so, it’s likely the starter going bad. If not, there may be something cutting off power, like the brake/blade/etc. circuit.
I’d measure the voltage coming out of the solenoid and see if it’s getting the 12v to the starter. If so, it’s likely the starter going bad. If not, there may be something cutting off power, like the brake/blade/etc. circuit.
Posted on 9/27/24 at 11:38 pm to Glock17
Sounds like the starter or bad connection between the solenoid and starter. Check for voltage at the starter and at the solenoid post that goes to the starter. Voltage at the post and not the starter= bad connection. Voltage at both= bad starter.
Posted on 9/28/24 at 2:49 am to Glock17
Mine had that problem and it was the seat switch that was bad.
There's also a switch at the bottom of the handles that tell it that it's in park that might be bad.
There's also a switch at the bottom of the handles that tell it that it's in park that might be bad.
Posted on 9/28/24 at 9:44 am to Glock17
Exact same thing is happening with my Raptor. Will just click and then will eventually start. Bookmarking this thread
Posted on 9/29/24 at 8:14 am to weadjust
I tied that trick and it wouldn’t turn over. Leaning towards the starter being bad. Going to try to fool with it some this afternoon
Posted on 9/29/24 at 9:19 am to Vrai
Just to add additional personal experience on similar situation, my mower would click, but not start consistently. After a few tries, it would eventually fire up and not have any issues.
What happened was one of the pins on the connectors of my solenoid had become corroded and broken off. The mower was fairly new but the way the connector and pin were oriented along with not being sealed likely led to water sitting there and corroding the pin.
It took a fair amount of trouble shooting with a multi-meter and the wiring diagram to pin point the issue. The starting circuit is fairly simple, so I’d definitely start there and determine what you need to connect. For example, the seat sensor is usually not part of the starting circuit, only when the blades are engaged.
What happened was one of the pins on the connectors of my solenoid had become corroded and broken off. The mower was fairly new but the way the connector and pin were oriented along with not being sealed likely led to water sitting there and corroding the pin.
It took a fair amount of trouble shooting with a multi-meter and the wiring diagram to pin point the issue. The starting circuit is fairly simple, so I’d definitely start there and determine what you need to connect. For example, the seat sensor is usually not part of the starting circuit, only when the blades are engaged.
Posted on 9/29/24 at 9:26 am to weadjust
quote:
touch a screw driver across both bolts/poles on the solenoid and see if engine turn over.
I have the same mower as OP and have been starting mine with a rusted chisel across the solenoid for about 2 years
Posted on 9/29/24 at 10:03 am to Glock17
quote:
I tied that trick and it wouldn’t turn over.
Take the cover off the top of the engine & see if you can turn fly wheel with a wrench. If yes the starter is probably your problem. If you can’t turn the engine try removing the spark plug(s) and see if you can turn the engine.
Posted on 9/29/24 at 2:12 pm to weadjust
I’ll also add that I used it last Sunday without issue. Got my grass, and decided to cut the overgrown lot acrosss the street. When I went to recrank it and put it away in my shop is when it wouldn’t crank. Part of me wonders if some of that tall grass made a connection loose
Posted on 9/29/24 at 7:19 pm to Glock17
Your not giving us much to go on. Is the battery good? Have your tried jump starting it?
If you have some jumper cables attach the red clamp to the starter and the black to the mower frame. Touch the other end of the cables to the battery and see if the starter engages. Put it in neutral before doing this and it may still move if the starter engages with it in neutral.
Have you tried turning the flywheel with a wrench? If you can turn it with a wrench you can eliminate the engine being locked up. If it's locked up it could be a number of things. Hydro locked w fuel. Magnet or stator broke keeping the flywheel from spinning. Bad PTO bearing will also keep the engine from turning over.
If the battery is good and you can spin the engine with a wrench. I would guess you have a bad starter or the PTO switch (engages blades) is bad.
If you have some jumper cables attach the red clamp to the starter and the black to the mower frame. Touch the other end of the cables to the battery and see if the starter engages. Put it in neutral before doing this and it may still move if the starter engages with it in neutral.
Have you tried turning the flywheel with a wrench? If you can turn it with a wrench you can eliminate the engine being locked up. If it's locked up it could be a number of things. Hydro locked w fuel. Magnet or stator broke keeping the flywheel from spinning. Bad PTO bearing will also keep the engine from turning over.
If the battery is good and you can spin the engine with a wrench. I would guess you have a bad starter or the PTO switch (engages blades) is bad.
Posted on 9/29/24 at 8:47 pm to weadjust
The battery isn’t the issue. I replaced with a brand new one and still just clicked. I did try jumping it
I’ll have to try the jumper cable trick tomorrow.
I haven’t tried moving the flywheel yet. Gotta figure how what pieces I need to remove to get to it. I had ran it for a good hour last Sunday without an issue. I parked it in the driveway to cool down while I blew everything off. Tried to crank it again maybe 15 minutes later and got the clicks
I’ll have to try the jumper cable trick tomorrow.
I haven’t tried moving the flywheel yet. Gotta figure how what pieces I need to remove to get to it. I had ran it for a good hour last Sunday without an issue. I parked it in the driveway to cool down while I blew everything off. Tried to crank it again maybe 15 minutes later and got the clicks
This post was edited on 9/29/24 at 8:48 pm
Posted on 9/29/24 at 10:29 pm to Glock17
I have a hustler as well. Without ohming the safety circuit out, a high percentage guess is the starter relay that's located under your switch panel is bad. They get wet. The coils in the relays go bad.
Posted on 9/30/24 at 5:47 am to Fraid Knot
Second this. I had an 08 hustler mini z and it was the relay that went bad.
Posted on 9/30/24 at 8:27 am to Glock17
Since I didn't see anyone else mention it..... Check for a loose frame ground connection.
Posted on 9/30/24 at 8:36 am to Fraid Knot
quote:
that's located under your switch panel is bad
Dumb question... by switch panel do you mean the backside of where the ignition is?
Posted on 9/30/24 at 10:43 am to Glock17
I had the same problem with a Snapper riding mower about a decade ago and checked just everything mentioned by others with no luck, and eventually found it was a corroded battery cable under the cable insulation. Changing the battery cables fixed it.
I was able confirm it was not the starter simply by putting auto jumper cables on the starter terminals and jump starting it directly from the mower battery (bypassed the ignition switch, battery cables, solenoid, seat safety switch, etc).
I was able confirm it was not the starter simply by putting auto jumper cables on the starter terminals and jump starting it directly from the mower battery (bypassed the ignition switch, battery cables, solenoid, seat safety switch, etc).
Posted on 9/30/24 at 12:23 pm to Glock17
I have a Fastrak with the 20hp Honda. Have you tried putting the arms in different positions? Sometimes, I have to move the right arm in just a little bit to start it.
This post was edited on 9/30/24 at 12:24 pm
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