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Help repairing leak in copper drain line at tankless heater w/ propress fittings
Posted on 10/30/26 at 9:35 am
Posted on 10/30/26 at 9:35 am
I noticed a wet spot on the brick outside of one of my tankless heaters. looks like i have a small leak in one of the propress fittings on the copper drain line. looking to diy the repair but there's no meat on the pipe for me to cut and install new fittings. how would one remove these type of fittings? going to be tight... leak is where the red circle is. it's dripping into the pan then that drips outside the housing and down my wall.
This post was edited on 10/30/26 at 9:36 am
Posted on 10/30/26 at 11:24 am to Randall Savauge
There’s no solution that I know of but I’m not a plumber. You can probably use a dremel or hand saw to cut that pro press off but I don’t think a plumber would do that. A plumber is going to go back to the stub out where there’s copper available and re do the rest of it from there most likely.
You could shark bit all that for $50 or so most likely. I don’t love them but it’s an option depending on what the rest of your plumbing looks like.
You could shark bit all that for $50 or so most likely. I don’t love them but it’s an option depending on what the rest of your plumbing looks like.
Posted on 10/30/26 at 12:14 pm to Randall Savauge
If it was me I would repipe it all in solder fittings back to the wall.
Not sure what went wrong here but it's why I am not a fan of propress in general. Yes, soldered fittings can be installed wrong and leak also. But I've always wondered what happens to the o-ring seal in the propress fittings decades later.
You can get a Mapp torch and the fittings, flux, solder, and sandpaper for not too much money.
Not sure what went wrong here but it's why I am not a fan of propress in general. Yes, soldered fittings can be installed wrong and leak also. But I've always wondered what happens to the o-ring seal in the propress fittings decades later.
You can get a Mapp torch and the fittings, flux, solder, and sandpaper for not too much money.
Posted on 10/30/26 at 1:00 pm to Randall Savauge
I would personally hire a plumber to rebuild the whole thing with soldered fittings. Too many compression and threaded fittings there for my taste!
This post was edited on 10/30/26 at 1:01 pm
Posted on 10/30/26 at 4:57 pm to baldona
Here’s what I’d try first. Turn off water, remove connected hose. Clean/ steel wool around pipe, get a 1” rubber sleeve or smaller, cut down to fit where leak is, put on and hose clamp it tight. $7 home depot attempt.
Posted on 10/30/26 at 5:13 pm to AndyCBR
quote:I’d reckon they’ll disintegrate
But I've always wondered what happens to the o-ring seal in the propress fittings decades later.
Posted on 10/30/26 at 6:16 pm to White Bear
I’ve seen a few blow out in a freeze. The plumber should’ve used sweat fittings since everything is butted together like that.
Posted on 10/31/26 at 11:16 am to Randall Savauge
Cut below the elbow and replace everything in that picture.
Though I prefer to use solder and a torch.
Though I prefer to use solder and a torch.
Posted on 10/31/26 at 11:18 am to Randall Savauge
Where are you located? If in BR I can help you DIY. Homeimpbydl@gmail.com
Posted on 10/31/26 at 11:18 am to AndyCBR
I feel solder is more reliable and easier to make repairs on down the line.
Even in fridges I still solder rather than Lokring (hvac propress)
Even in fridges I still solder rather than Lokring (hvac propress)
Posted on 11/1/26 at 12:19 pm to Randall Savauge
Question - is that a drain (unpressurized) line or the cold water inlet line (60 psi +/-)? Would make a difference in my mind as to the repair. If pressure, I would remove any nearby Pro Press fittings and replace with soldered. If unpressurized, try cleaning around the fitting until it shines and apply J-B Weld.
BTW - AI says Pro Press is a metal to metal seal with a O-ring secondary seal. Sounds like both failed.
Disclaimer - I am not a plumber. If a pressurized line, I would hire an expert.
BTW - AI says Pro Press is a metal to metal seal with a O-ring secondary seal. Sounds like both failed.
Disclaimer - I am not a plumber. If a pressurized line, I would hire an expert.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 3:27 pm to AndyCBR
I think this is the best and only reasonable answer. May need a union to properly tie into the water heater. Can't really tell from the picture
Posted on 11/2/26 at 6:05 pm to 385 Tiger
I’d say you are going to have to cut out all the fitting back to the stub and redo. As was already said, I’d go back with sweated fittings. At least you could have heated the bad one up and replaced it with sweated fittings. I have nothing against pro press, but that’s a tight space with a lot of connections to rip out if it happens again.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 6:54 pm to td1
That's what I meant if I wasn't clear. I don't know much about pro press, but they have to have some sort of washer or seal. I don't know how you could sweat anything in without ruining the entire thing. This back to square one.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 8:13 pm to 385 Tiger
I agree with Tiger here.
I also know that all those butted fittings that are pressed are a no-no according to the specifications of the product.com. I’m not a plumber but do own a pro press.
I’d pex that whole thing out and call it a day.
I also know that all those butted fittings that are pressed are a no-no according to the specifications of the product.com. I’m not a plumber but do own a pro press.
I’d pex that whole thing out and call it a day.
Posted on 11/3/26 at 7:25 am to PaBon
If it's outside, I don't think you can use pex because of the UV
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