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Hanging hardie plank question
Posted on 3/26/21 at 6:50 pm
Posted on 3/26/21 at 6:50 pm
I have had two people come look at hanging plank on my back porch. One said we need to strip all of the old Masonite off then hang. The other said the can put the plank on top of the Masonite. I assume that will be cheaper. What is the downside to just putting it on top? Thanks.
9
Posted on 3/26/21 at 7:40 pm to TDTOM
Is there rot to the Masonite? I would think you would have issues where the hardi matches up to window and doors if you don’t remove the Masonite first
Posted on 3/26/21 at 8:01 pm to TDTOM
Probably going to look like crap where it meets up with the window and door trims and likely be proud of the trim faces.
If so, that will look pretty amateurish by the contractor.
Go with the guy who's going to remove the old siding and do a more professional job.
If so, that will look pretty amateurish by the contractor.
Go with the guy who's going to remove the old siding and do a more professional job.
Posted on 3/26/21 at 8:22 pm to TDTOM
You don't necessarily need to demo the existing masonite siding, but there are several things to consider:
1. Potential for warping. Any variation in the masonite will be seen in the Hardie. You could wind up with a wave effect.
2. Warranty. You may not get a labor or manufacturer's warranty if the substrate does not meet Hardie's specs.
3. As the previous poster mentioned, the masonite could deteriorate underneath the Hardie.
At the end of the day, I think it's a personal preference, and you have to weigh your options to decide what risk you are or are not ok with taking.
1. Potential for warping. Any variation in the masonite will be seen in the Hardie. You could wind up with a wave effect.
2. Warranty. You may not get a labor or manufacturer's warranty if the substrate does not meet Hardie's specs.
3. As the previous poster mentioned, the masonite could deteriorate underneath the Hardie.
At the end of the day, I think it's a personal preference, and you have to weigh your options to decide what risk you are or are not ok with taking.
Posted on 3/26/21 at 8:31 pm to TDTOM
You know the answer. You looking to justify the cheaper route. Do it right.
Posted on 3/26/21 at 9:00 pm to TDTOM
I had Masonite on part of my house (carport/patio) in 2016 during the flood. The way that crap held water I ripped it all out and replaced it when hardy
This post was edited on 3/26/21 at 9:01 pm
Posted on 3/26/21 at 11:25 pm to TDTOM
Would you put new tires over your old tires?
Posted on 3/27/21 at 7:10 am to mingoswamp
No rotting. All windows are framed by mouldings so that shouldn’t be an issue.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 8:05 am to TDTOM
Does this seem reasonable?
Remove old masonite and prep wallsfor hardie board
- Install, tyvek and smooth hardie board
with a 6" reveal
- Caulk and prep for paint
$1650
Boards, trim, caulk, nails, tyvek paper
$750
The contractor charges $125.00 for debris removal
$125
Install qty 4 outlets in desired areas
$800
Total $3,325.00
$800 to run 4 outlets when the studs are visible seems high. His longest run from a visible outlet would be maybe 6 ft.
Thoughts?
Remove old masonite and prep wallsfor hardie board
- Install, tyvek and smooth hardie board
with a 6" reveal
- Caulk and prep for paint
$1650
Boards, trim, caulk, nails, tyvek paper
$750
The contractor charges $125.00 for debris removal
$125
Install qty 4 outlets in desired areas
$800
Total $3,325.00
$800 to run 4 outlets when the studs are visible seems high. His longest run from a visible outlet would be maybe 6 ft.
Thoughts?
This post was edited on 4/1/21 at 8:08 am
Posted on 4/1/21 at 8:12 am to TDTOM
How many sqft? Seems pretty good to me. Electrical outlet price seems high. That's something you could easily do yourself.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 8:17 am to TDTOM
quote:
Does this seem reasonable?
Tough to know without scale. How many squares of Hardie?
Ask the contractor a question: When you say caulk and prep for paint, are going to caulk the joints where the siding overlaps? If they say yes, find another contractor. I see this done all the time and it is not correct.
Also, they should be flashing behind every butt joint with 30# felt or aluminum. Verify this as well.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 9:03 am to TDTOM
The electrician will have to send a truck for 4 hours. The truck probably has 2 guys. Now if the guy you hired is doing the work, that price is probably high.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 9:22 am to wickowick
It should take 1 person about an hour.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 11:27 am to TDTOM
quote:
It should take 1 person about an hour.
Then you should do it.
. . . you use to making $800 (minus expenses) an hour?
Posted on 4/1/21 at 11:34 am to GeauxldMember
quote:
Ask the contractor a question: When you say caulk and prep for paint, are going to caulk the joints where the siding overlaps? If they say yes, find another contractor. I see this done all the time and it is not correct.
And voids warranty. Yes it’s done all the time and people get offended when I tell them not to do it and it’s wrong.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 11:43 am to TDTOM
First house I owned had Masonite siding. Started falling apart after five years. IIRC, there was a class action lawsuit over this crap. Masonite is great indoors where it stays dry; outdoors not so much.
If I were you (and I'm not, nor is it my money being spent), I would take down the Masonite.
If I were you (and I'm not, nor is it my money being spent), I would take down the Masonite.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 11:46 am to Art Vandelay
quote:
And voids warranty. Yes it’s done all the time and people get offended when I tell them not to do it and it’s wrong.
So you aren't supposed to caulk between the joints at all even if you put the flashing also? Interesting
Posted on 4/1/21 at 12:01 pm to Unobtanium
quote:
I would take down the Masonite.
I am. I am also going to do the electrical.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 2:43 pm to baldona
quote:
So you aren't supposed to caulk between the joints at all even if you put the flashing also? Interesting
You can caulk the butt joints, but really shouldn’t have to. You can and should also caulk/seal any of the joints where the siding butts against corner boards, door and window trim. You should never caulk the lap joint. Water can and will get behind the siding and caulking that joint will basically give that water no path to drain.
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