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Anyone on this board have any experiences to share re-plumbing a house with PEX?

Posted on 7/5/24 at 8:41 am
Posted by Tridentds
Sugar Land
Member since Aug 2011
22345 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 8:41 am
We used Kitec plumbing when we built and now feel we are on a ticking time bomb. Lots of problems, lawsuits, etc... Just think we need to bite the bullet and re-plumb.

I know it is going to cost some money but what was your experience with re-plumbing? Thanks.
Posted by poochie
Houma, la
Member since Apr 2007
6765 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 8:47 am to
you mean like rip sheetrock out and re-plumb? why? what is kitec?
Posted by LegendInMyMind
Member since Apr 2019
66611 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 9:12 am to
We remodeled our kitchen/dining room like area from basically the floor joists up back in 2016. We have an old pier and beam home, and because most of the plumbing was accessible with the kitchen floor out and the PVC plumbing was was quite old, we decided to tear out all of it and replumb it. The water heater and kitchen sink were already getting replaced, and the dish rinser was getting put in new, so it really wasn't a whole lot of extra work.

I chose to go with PEX and I'm glad I did. It is easy to work with and alleviates some of the Winter freeze worries. I had a one foot section of PVC left going to a wall hydrant outside, the only non-drain PVC left in the house. It froze and burst in the deep freeze two years ago. I hadn't replaced that hydrant with a Pex hydrant, but I did after the freeze. It burst on Christmas Eve, and with a Sharkbite end plug I had the water back on in 15 minutes. It made it through last year's single digit spell fine.

I like Pex, and I'm glad we decided to re-plumb with it when it was convenient to do so.
This post was edited on 7/5/24 at 9:15 am
Posted by Turnblad85
Member since Sep 2022
3195 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 9:42 am to
I don't have any personal experience with Kitec but I do have a bit with ripping out old plumbing lines. I would avoid tearing up an inhabited house if at all possible.

I think exterior corrosion is evident on those problem fittings if serious corrosion is occurring. Maybe inspect the fittings and even drill some inspection holes under sinks, ect and use a borescope to look inside walls. But if the ones you can see don't look to be a problem then its more likely the ones you can't see are ok as well.

Its probable that the supply water mineral makeup has an effect on how fast corrosion occurs. So maybe you have a water condition that isn't as bad as others that have failed. If you live in a neighborhood that was constructed around the same time you might ask around, nextdoor, ect if anyone else has the same plumbing.

Investing in one of those smart wifi watermain shutoffs would be nice peace of mind. I don't have any experience with them but from what I've read they are pretty nice and do a decent job of detecting leaks.


but man, screw drywall patching and painting in a home you're living in.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
22463 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 10:41 am to
My parents copper line had a leak in the slab by their master bedroom which was the furthest spot from the supply, and they didn't want to tear up their hardwood and hope it didn't happen again.

Its been 3-4 years but they had a local plumbing company do it and I think it was $400 per fixture and ended up being around $4000. I honestly felt that was pretty good.

ETA: By fixture I mean per toilet, sink, shower, etc.

They came out on a friday night with like 5 plumbers and worked for 3-4 hours. Then a guy came back the next day to finish up.

They ran Pex through the attic, cut sheetrock out at the fixture, or what not usually it was only about a 12x12" or 18"x18" sheetrock. They probably got lucky for the most part that most places were accessible.

Obviously they got a sheetrock guy to come back and patch it all up.
This post was edited on 7/5/24 at 10:42 am
Posted by indytiger
baton rouge/indy
Member since Oct 2004
10131 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 10:54 am to
Last year I replumbed all the main trunks running through my attic. The old pex was 3/4", and was clogged from iron from our well. I upsized to 1" pex. The original stuff was Pex A, or expansion pex. I bought a milwaukee expansion tool and it made the job a breeze.

At the time it was a little tricky to find expansion fittings, but now it seems that all Lowes and HD stock them.

I did not redo the drops going down to each fixture, I just connected the old drops to the new main trunk. I imagine all that drywall work would be a real pain.

I was able to put in some extra shut off valves and improve on some things I didn't like. The water was down to a trickle, and now it flows well.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
43394 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 12:13 pm to
I’m a big fan of pex
I have tons of it run exposed under my deck and in my carport and none of it burst in the last deep freeze. It froze but it didn’t break, and it thawed almost immediately
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
17793 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 1:18 pm to
quote:

Pex A, or expansion pex.


Don't get hung up on this. The proper designation is ASTM F1960 and there are PEX A and PEX B tubing that meets this standard, mostly PEX A but there are definitely other formulations that qualify. Sioux Chief has a PEX B tubing that is certified under F1960 as an example. The most important aspect with PEX aside from not being sloppy with installation practices is the temperature, if it's during cold ambient temps then make sure the tubing ends, fittings, and reinforcing rings are warmed up during connection to prevent cracks. Cordless heat guns are great for this.
Posted by s0tiger
Member since May 2008
850 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 2:05 pm to
We bought our current house in 2020 just before Covid. It was built on the 90s and had polybutylene pipes which have a history of failure. Made a total replumb with Pex a condition of purchase. 3 story 4100 sq ft house, work took 7 days before we moved in. I was in and saw all the places they cut into drywall and wouldn't have known it was done once put back together. It cost $8k and that included upgraded fittings.

All in all it was quick and painless since the house was unoccupied.
Posted by Jack Daniel
Gold member
Member since Feb 2013
27473 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 4:43 pm to
Get a hammer and start knocking out Sheetrock
Posted by Reubaltaich
A nation under duress
Member since Jun 2006
5198 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 9:02 pm to
I did my place in a DIY project a little over a year ago.

The biggest challenge was access. I had to tear out some walls to get it to the piping. I had a few tight spots that was a booger-bear to get to.

For the most part it went fairly easy.

I used the crimp-on style fittings. A few spots was hard to get to, so I used the quick-connect Shark bite fittings. The Shark bite fittings are a lot easier to use but the crimp-on style seems a lot more secure.

Plus the crimp-on type takes a crimping tool and a little extra effort.

A few of pointers:

If you are going to DIY, a few YouTube vids would be extremely helpful.

Save your old piping to use as a pattern, especially around the bathrooms, sinks and hot water heater(s). Some of the routing can be a little confusing if you are inexperienced with plumbing.

I insulated my piping with foam tubing using zip-ties to hold them in place. Make sure you have enough 45 degree , 90 degree elbows and t-shape ones to insulate the pipes.

I purchased my supplies from Lowes.


Posted by soccerfüt
Location: A Series of Tubes
Member since May 2013
70323 posts
Posted on 7/5/24 at 9:35 pm to
PEX, PEY, PEZ

What’s the difference?

Posted by GoAwayImBaitn
On an island in the marsh
Member since Jul 2018
2631 posts
Posted on 8/8/24 at 11:02 am to
Re piped our raised house recently with PEX A expansion. Very easy. Get the Milwaukee expander tool, well worth the money
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