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re: Terrebonne Parish/“Chauvin Style” no-roux gumbo (w/pics)

Posted on 5/18/20 at 5:24 am to
Posted by DeCat ODahouse
Premium Member
Member since Jan 2017
1676 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 5:24 am to
Kudo's on the excellent pics with the post. Recipe will def. be worth trying even if afterwards remaining in the roux camp for gumbo.

Bone-in chicken very discerning touch.
Appreciate heads up on the cookbook.
Posted by mylsuhat
Mandeville, LA
Member since Mar 2008
49999 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 6:30 am to
My Grandma from Raceland makes her gumbo like this. My Grandma from Lutcher makes it with a deep roux.

They are both very good. File' in the roux-less gumbo is a big enhancement
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
10199 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 7:18 am to
quote:

Damn cajuns frick up everything. First it was a brown chicken fricassee and now a rouxless, okraless gumbo.
Actually, of the 3 thickeners used in gumbo these days, roux came last. So what you're seeing here is a more ancient form of gumbo. Roux is the bastardization, if you want to get pedantic.
This post was edited on 5/18/20 at 7:22 am
Posted by Nicky Parrish
Member since Apr 2016
7098 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 8:13 am to
quote:

This is also how gumbo is made in much of Lafourche, especially the southern half.

I’ve lived all my life (70 yrs) below the Intracoastal in South Lafourche and really don’t know anyone that doesn’t make a roux for a gumbo.
Not saying who’s right or who’s wrong.
Probably depends how your mom and grandmother made theirs.
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 8:17 am to
Bastardization implies that there is one correct way: rather, gumbo belongs to the people who cook it. Not to the chefs who make a buck selling it, or the non Cajuns who have decided that a mass media repetition of something is truth. As I repeat frequently, there is no “high church” cajun cooking: it is an ever evolving web of practices, passed from person to person. It’s nice to see the bayou traditions represented in print—on balance, the prairie ways are over represented in books.

Some of us are living, breathing legit LA folk culture bearers, tu connais?
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
10199 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 8:59 am to
quote:

Bastardization implies that there is one correct way: rather, gumbo belongs to the people who cook it. Not to the chefs who make a buck selling it, or the non Cajuns who have decided that a mass media repetition of something is truth. As I repeat frequently, there is no “high church” cajun cooking: it is an ever evolving web of practices, passed from person to person. It’s nice to see the bayou traditions represented in print—on balance, the prairie ways are over represented in books.

Agree 100% Just trying to get a rise.

And no, I'm not a coonass, but my mom grew up in the middle of prairie Cajuns.
Posted by MeridianDog
Home on the range
Member since Nov 2010
14539 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 9:08 am to
I agree with Gris Gris. I have spent a good bit of my cooking life, trying to recreate recipe taste memories from my childhood. Always happy when I finally achieve success.
Posted by USMCTIGER1970
BATON ROUGE
Member since Mar 2017
2371 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 9:46 am to
I'm still haven't seen any post of you culinary feats, you are always very critical of others. Please show us how its done!
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
52559 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 10:12 am to
LL, my copy came in last week. I'm going to cook out of it very soon. It's a great book.
Posted by LouisianaLady
Member since Mar 2009
83035 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 10:35 am to
quote:

Probably depends how your mom and grandmother made theirs.



quote:

Some of us are living, breathing legit LA folk


Agree. I was gate-keepy for a while when I learned how to make things from this board. Brown jambalaya, dark roux gumbo, etc. But I've really come around. Who am I to say the version someone has made for 50 years, and learned from their family, is wrong?

Even those weird ones with seafood and chicken
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 10:39 am to
quote:

But I've really come around. Who am I to say the version someone has made for 50 years, and learned from their family, is wrong?

Applause. Cajuns continue to exist bc of an odd mix of persistence and flexibility. People who will eat almost anything if it tastes good—it is funny to see people trying to create a system of rules to try to understand it.
Posted by Langland
Trumplandia
Member since Apr 2014
15382 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 1:42 pm to
"Until the 1970s, gumbo was primarily popular on the Gulf Coast of the United States. It gained a broader profile after the death of United States Senator Allen Ellender. A native of Terrebonne Parish, Louisiana, Ellender had often cooked gumbo for his colleagues, including five American presidents. After Ellender died in 1972, the Senate directed that their cafeteria add Louisiana Creole Gumbo, made with seafood, to its menu in his honor." Wiki LINK



Date Appeared: 1964-10-22

recipe image LINK

Somebody here should make it and post pics. I nominate LouisianaLady. (You will likely get additional marriage proposals.)

Also interesting is a recipe page by Senator Allen Ellender's great grandson: https://ellendercharters.com/the-captains-recipes/

ETA: New Orleans Cuisine: Fourteen Signature Dishes and Their Histories Gumbo starts on page 98.
This post was edited on 5/18/20 at 4:05 pm
Posted by mouton
Savannah,Ga
Member since Aug 2006
28276 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 1:58 pm to
quote:

First it was a brown chicken fricassee


First off you are an idiot... Now that that's out of the way, since you have such a problem with a fricassee in LA being brown unlike a classic French fricassee, do you have the same issue with Louisiana boudin? I asked this once before and you did not answer.
Posted by LouisianaLady
Member since Mar 2009
83035 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 2:20 pm to
quote:

ETA 2: So don't brown the chicken in this chicken gumbo recipe, but do brown the chicken in a chicken fricassee.



I'm confused. The recipe does say to brown it. 8 minutes per side.
Posted by Langland
Trumplandia
Member since Apr 2014
15382 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 3:55 pm to
quote:

I'm confused. The recipe does say to brown it. 8 minutes per side.



Ok you're correct. But you had to add Kitchen Bouquet to this recipe for a reason. The dish would not be brown otherwise. But just between you and me, I don't really care. I would eat it and enjoy it, but it's not gumbo. Add okra and a lot more file, which are historical and original to the dish, then I would call it gumbo. I do find it a bit humorous that some people get defensive over a dish that had originally very little to do with the Acadians. However Senator Allen Ellender from Terrebonne parish and Paul Prudhomme are largely responsible for its popularity today. But the Cajuns certainly didn't create gumbo.
Posted by LouisianaLady
Member since Mar 2009
83035 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 4:19 pm to
quote:

But you had to add Kitchen Bouquet to this recipe for a reason.


I didn't have to do anything. Presumably, the lady's is brown on her own since she makes no mention of browning liquid. I added a capful (1/2-1 tsp) because after 2 hours of cooking and stirring 3lbs of onions in a non-oblong pot, they still were not dark since so many were not in direct contact with the heat. With a large oval pot, this likely would have been much darker.

I also found that browning chicken thighs with the skin removed caused the meat to stick to the bottom of my pot and not come up like it normally does, which meant not as much fond. Odd because I brown skinless chopped chicken all the time with no issue. Not sure what was the deal there. Presumably, the author didn't have this issue either.
Posted by Langland
Trumplandia
Member since Apr 2014
15382 posts
Posted on 5/18/20 at 4:57 pm to
quote:

I didn't have to do anything. Presumably, the lady's is brown on her own since she makes no mention of browning liquid. I added a capful (1/2-1 tsp) because after 2 hours of cooking and stirring 3lbs of onions in a non-oblong pot, they still were not dark since so many were not in direct contact with the heat. With a large oval pot, this likely would have been much darker.


You're probably right. I concede.
Posted by Twenty 49
Shreveport
Member since Jun 2014
21358 posts
Posted on 5/19/20 at 6:09 am to
Thanks for posting the recipe and pics. It's interesting that there are so many variations on a dish in a small geographic area.

I mentioned in one of these threads that I saw an LPB show years ago where some south La. Indians made gumbo. No roux, but tons of file' with water and seafood.

If you consider those variations, plus Senator Ellender's and those found in 1800s New Orleans cookbooks, we may need to stop poking fun at the recipes posted by Yankee food sites and magazines. There are no rules, so theirs may be as legit as the one you are making.
Posted by mouton
Savannah,Ga
Member since Aug 2006
28276 posts
Posted on 5/19/20 at 9:21 am to
quote:

Langland


How about you answer my question?
Posted by LSUJML
Central
Member since May 2008
56620 posts
Posted on 5/21/20 at 1:20 pm to
quote:

Mosquito Supper Club


Bought from Amazon & it came in today

It’s really nice, I plan to give it to my Dad for Fathers Day
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