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Raised Garden Bed Build Info

Posted on 10/30/25 at 10:00 am
Posted by 3BlockUber
Member since Aug 2022
625 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 10:00 am
I am going to build a raised bed this winter for vegetables. I looked up past topics and it seems like many suggest using treated pine (that the chemicals do not affect the vegetables) and sealing the inside with caulk.

Is this still the best way? I'm thinking something like 8 foot long by 2-3 foot wide. Any other advice? Thanks in advance!

I was thinking a design like this:
Posted by jmarto1
Houma, LA/ Las Vegas, NV
Member since Mar 2008
37678 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 10:03 am to
Ive been using the galvanized steel beds for the sake of ease. No complaints with them
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
46064 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 10:29 am to
i used treated 2x12's and 4x6's for the corners, caulked the seams and them painted insides with rubber sealant
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5688 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 10:30 am to
Perfectly fine and how I vegetable garden, but why are you thinking of sealing the inside with caulk?

I just replaced my boards This past spring, I think I got 6 or 7 years out of the old boards. I used 2 x 12 treated lumber, though you don’t have to go that high. 3 feet is a good width as you can reach the middle of the bed from either side without crawling into the bed.

Your next question might be what should you use as a planting mix. Something similar to this is what I use, but the bulk of the planting mix is what the retail garden centers call “garden soil or garden mix” which is composted forestry products with added sand to help with drainage.

Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
46064 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 10:36 am to
quote:

but why are you thinking of sealing the inside with caulk?
2 reasons:

-90% of people are going to fill the beds with "garden mix" which as you noted is basically forest products and sand. it drains...too well. moisture retention in that media is a struggle, caulk helps keep the water from just running out of the sides

-rot resistance at the seams and joints
Posted by Trout Bandit
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Dec 2012
14790 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 11:30 am to
I just picked up 24 treated 8' 2x8s to build 4 beds with. Going to support the corners with 11" angled steel supports that I picked up on Amazon. Looks like I'll be caulking the inside seams as well. Any other suggestions??
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
46064 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 12:02 pm to
grab a 4x4 or 4x6 and cut it up to make your inside corners, leave them about an inch or 2 long at the bottom of the bed and tap them into the ground to help anchor and level the bed frames
Posted by Trout Bandit
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Dec 2012
14790 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 12:35 pm to
quote:

grab a 4x4 or 4x6 and cut it up to make your inside corners,

Thanks man! I'm going to see how stiff the steel supports make them before going this route. My yard is on a slight slope so I'm still figuring out how to level them. 4x4s might be the way to go.
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5824 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 2:11 pm to
quote:

caulked the seams and them painted insides with rubber sealant


Probably an unnecessary step unless you're lucky enough to get the only 2x12" on the continent that doesn't warp any after a year of holding damp planting mix.
Posted by RetiredSaintsLsuFan
NW Arkansas
Member since Jun 2020
2141 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 7:11 pm to
I built my first one out of cinder blocks. The next one will be this one.

LINK
Posted by Bill Parker?
Member since Jan 2013
5175 posts
Posted on 10/30/25 at 11:02 pm to
Add another 2x12, or better yet, 2. That image is not deep enough for root structure for vegetables in the summer heat down here. And it'll save your back and knees.
Posted by AyyyBaw
Member since Jan 2020
1201 posts
Posted on 10/31/25 at 5:34 am to




First time posting pictures. Built these a few months ago. Built a border around them and filled with road base. Easy maintenance and can mow around them easy with my mower. Just spray the occasional grass that pops up through the road base. Great for drainage and maintenance.
Posted by lgtiger
LA
Member since May 2005
1432 posts
Posted on 10/31/25 at 8:01 am to
quote:

I built my first one out of cinder blocks


Did you not like the cinder blocks? I would think they would be easy to use and have longevity
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
46064 posts
Posted on 10/31/25 at 8:08 am to
very nice
I also made an aggregate perimeter 4’ around and between my three boxes using pea gravel. definitely an improvement over sitting in the grass
Posted by PHNBK
Member since Nov 2020
172 posts
Posted on 10/31/25 at 9:00 am to


My treated wood ones lasted 2-3 years. Rebuilt a few years back with metal. Much better. They are open bottom and i used steel banding to keep the bottoms from bowing out with the weight of the soil.
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
42185 posts
Posted on 10/31/25 at 11:54 am to
The Pic you posted is made of cedar and that's the best wood to use. I built mine out of cedar over 10 years ago and had to patch a corner last year but otherwise it's still solid.
Cinder Blocks take up valuable space, unless you have a big area , and the leach chemicals .
[[link=(The Toxic Truth About Cinder Blocks Every Homesteader Should Know - Off The Grid News https://share.google/WONY8blfAFMvKQcLO)]Cmu Hazards [/link]
This post was edited on 10/31/25 at 12:02 pm
Posted by armsdealer
Member since Feb 2016
12267 posts
Posted on 10/31/25 at 8:58 pm to
I have done grow bags, raised beds, pots, etc. etc. I moved back into the ground this year and it is so much easier. Yeah, the ground is farther away from me than a raised bed or grow bag but it holds moisture better and honestly is cheaper. I basically square foot garden directly in the ground. At first my dirt was hard but now I can stick my broad fork down completely into the ground with pretty much just gravity.

I did amend the ground with peat moss to improve moisture retention and compost, but just growing the plants in that space and not stepping on it after has really loosened up my soil.

I did install edging to keep runners out, but it is at grass height, its not proud of the ground. I just ran my edger around the garden and slid in the metal edging and my mower can go over it. It really is more for pennywort than the grass, but it does make it easier to get the grass runners too.
Posted by SouthernInsanity
Shadows of Death Valley
Member since Nov 2012
24630 posts
Posted on 11/1/25 at 12:05 pm to
Wouldn't the metal get fricking hot at some point?
Posted by RetiredSaintsLsuFan
NW Arkansas
Member since Jun 2020
2141 posts
Posted on 11/2/25 at 8:46 am to
I don't know yet. My neighbors have them and said they work great.
Posted by bamarep
Member since Nov 2013
52327 posts
Posted on 11/2/25 at 9:08 am to
Thinking of adding some. Wifey and I just bought a house with 10 acres, the house is at the top of a tall hill. The view is incredible (I can see clear to the next county) and mostly cleared but I'm not sure I want to do a big garden like on my other place.

There are two already here that need new wood. My wife likes the idea of just walking out the back door and being able to pick a few peppers or tomatoes.

The deer would probably eat everything down at the "garden spot" anyway.
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