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Started By
Message
i need a table saw
Posted on 7/16/25 at 5:11 pm
Posted on 7/16/25 at 5:11 pm
i'm at the point in my renovation where i need to move to finish carpentry (trim, etc). i can do it myself which will be easier on my wallet and i can work on it at my own pace. i'll need straight rips on 1/4" birch plywood and 1x cypress trim...which i cant do consistently with my skil saw.
anyone care to recommend a portable? it will need to be something i can store, and available at stores (this weekend preferably). i would also like to not have to visit the emergency room
THX
anyone care to recommend a portable? it will need to be something i can store, and available at stores (this weekend preferably). i would also like to not have to visit the emergency room
THX
Posted on 7/16/25 at 5:24 pm to cgrand
What about a track saw? It will store away much more easily and is certainly safer than a table saw. I have some knockoff woodpecker-type parallel guides I use for doing rips and they’re awesome. I do still use my table saw, but it’s less and less frequently.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 5:25 pm to GeauxldMember
i'm not familiar with track saws though i probably should be. let me look
thx for the tip
thx for the tip
Posted on 7/16/25 at 5:28 pm to cgrand
I have a corded makita with two tracks for long rips. I’m pretty happy with it. Ideally, I’d have liked a battery powered saw, but I use Milwaukee platform and they weren’t making a track saw when I bought mine.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 5:38 pm to GeauxldMember
i have makita 40V & 18V tools...i see makita makes a 40V but dang its 700 bucks.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 6:24 pm to cgrand
I could see the track saw working on the ply but depending on the width of the 1x it may be much easier to cut strips on a table saw.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 6:32 pm to mtcheral
ive never used a track saw so i'll defer...i will need to rip 1x cypress boards down to 2" wide
Posted on 7/16/25 at 6:39 pm to cgrand
quote:
i will need to rip 1x cypress boards down to 2" wide
Table saw will definitely be a better option if that will be a primary use, though you can manage that on a track saw as well.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 6:41 pm to cgrand
quote:
anyone care to recommend a portable? it will need to be something i can store, and available at stores (this weekend preferably). i would also like to not have to visit the emergency room
Budget?
I lot of the "contractor" saws come down to the fence. Do some online reviews and watch some videos.
This guy has done a lot of table saw reviews.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=731+woodworks+table+saw
Posted on 7/16/25 at 7:35 pm to cgrand
SawStop makes the best portable "jobsite" table saw but also most exensive of course. Also doubt it is available locally.
I've had a bosch 4100 for over a decade and would buy again if I couldn't justify the cost of sawstop.
Track saws are great for breaking down large plys and putting a straight edge on wide boards but they don't replace a table saw.
I've had a bosch 4100 for over a decade and would buy again if I couldn't justify the cost of sawstop.
Track saws are great for breaking down large plys and putting a straight edge on wide boards but they don't replace a table saw.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 7:37 pm to GeauxldMember
quote:
What about a track saw?
1/4" plywood might be too flimsy for a track saw, maybe. Unless he uses a good sub work piece to support the plywood.
I don't have a track saw (one day maybe), I have a Kreg sled jig with a dedicated 7400 rpm circular saw.
I also have an 8ft piece of 4" aluminum cable tray I clamp to my workpiece as a straight edge and use a regular circular saw.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 8:24 pm to Cuz413
quote:
1/4" plywood might be too flimsy for a track saw, maybe. Unless he uses a good sub work piece to support the plywood.
Easily solved. I keep a sheet of 1” polystyrene board and cut on top of that. It supports the plywood and also protects the work surface from the blade.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 9:03 pm to cgrand
I like the Dewalt. Fence is plenty accurate. Easy to use. Not too heavy.
The first one I had the gears that raise/lower the blade got gummed up with sawdust and lubricant. Got harder and harder to change the depth, eventually stripping the plastic gear. The desalt store estimated the repair at 300 bucks. I declined and went to buy a newer model for 320. I did look underneath and they changed the plastic gear for a metal one. I did buy a replacement gear for 5 bucks and one day I may get around to replacing the bad one. But, I’ve been using this one regularly for over 15 years. Usually gets a really good workout with all the stuff I ask it to do.
Mine doesn’t have a stand or wheels, but my son bought the one he can roll around.
The first one I had the gears that raise/lower the blade got gummed up with sawdust and lubricant. Got harder and harder to change the depth, eventually stripping the plastic gear. The desalt store estimated the repair at 300 bucks. I declined and went to buy a newer model for 320. I did look underneath and they changed the plastic gear for a metal one. I did buy a replacement gear for 5 bucks and one day I may get around to replacing the bad one. But, I’ve been using this one regularly for over 15 years. Usually gets a really good workout with all the stuff I ask it to do.
Mine doesn’t have a stand or wheels, but my son bought the one he can roll around.
This post was edited on 7/17/25 at 11:29 am
Posted on 7/16/25 at 9:15 pm to cgrand
Dewalt jobsite saw is what I have and recommend. I have the earlier version with about 21", newer ones I think have up to 25" rip capacity I think. You'll never want to break down full sheets of anything on one without plenty of material support and a good helper though. I have a track saw for that stuff, use a large Bora centipede with two sheets of 1" insulation board as a cutting/support surface. Could easily cut 1/4" stuff on that too. Whatever table saw you do get, get a couple of good blades for it. Don't need to get too fancy but something like the Diablo Wood Demon GP blade is great for jobsite saws where you don't have tne power/torque of a cabinet saw.
This post was edited on 7/16/25 at 11:58 pm
Posted on 7/16/25 at 9:26 pm to cgrand
Can’t recommend a specific brand, as I’ve gone from a Ryobi jobsite to a Laguna cabinet saw, but I think you can’t go wrong with any of the jobsite saws that have a rack and pinion fence. Those fences will be more accurate and easier to stay dialed in versus the cheaper clamp fences on jobsite saws.
Second thing I would recommend would be to use an 8ft level clamped up against the fence to help make long cuts of needed and you can actually joint boards this way if you stock doesn’t come jointed and parallel to each other.
Also there are a bunch of videos on YouTube to modify/make infeed and outfeed support which corrects some of the problems with the smaller table size of jobsite saws.
I guess it all really depends on how anal you are about the finished product and how much effort you want to put into making the jobsite saw work almost as well as a cabinet style table saw.
Second thing I would recommend would be to use an 8ft level clamped up against the fence to help make long cuts of needed and you can actually joint boards this way if you stock doesn’t come jointed and parallel to each other.
Also there are a bunch of videos on YouTube to modify/make infeed and outfeed support which corrects some of the problems with the smaller table size of jobsite saws.
I guess it all really depends on how anal you are about the finished product and how much effort you want to put into making the jobsite saw work almost as well as a cabinet style table saw.
Posted on 7/16/25 at 11:37 pm to akimoto
Got a shop fox w1888 cabinet saw in 2022 and it’s been very accurate. My only complaint is with the motor. I’ve got a 2hp and should have waited on a 3. Fella I bought from had the rockler sliding miter, that’s been great. If you don’t have a dust collection system, get a dust deputy on a 20-30 gallon plastic barrel. It’s impressive to look at a full barrel and an empty shop vac with a fairly clean filter.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 7:29 am to cgrand
PMC Machinery in Hammond should have what you are looking for if you didnt want to go the bigbox route.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 7:59 am to GeauxldMember
quote:
Table saw will definitely be a better option if that will be a primary use
Agreed. Track saws are great for what they are intended for..... when you need to make a cut here or there on a piece too large for a table saw or one too wide so the fence is unusable.
If you constantly just ripping trim or standard sheets of ply wood, table saw is the way to go.
If you're going to use this for the renovation and don't want the hassle of storing a table saw, I'd borrow or rent one.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:13 am to southern686
quote:
Agreed. Track saws are great for what they are intended for..... when you need to make a cut here or there on a piece too large for a table saw or one too wide so the fence is unusable. If you constantly just ripping trim or standard sheets of ply wood, table saw is the way to go.
I’ve built a lot of cabinets and built ins in my time, and unless I’m ripping face frame material, I use my track saw. All of the plywood rips and crosscuts are done with my track saw. As mentioned in my original reply, the parallel guides are the key (I also have a square guide for perfect 90° crosscuts). It’s incredibly versatile and much safer than trying to rip— or more so, crosscut— full sheets on a job site table saw.
Now, if I had a large shop that could accommodate a shop-sized table saw with an outfeed table and crosscut sleigh, things would be different, but like OP, I have limited space and have to store everything away.
And OP, this is the table saw I have. It’s been a good little saw. As stated above, I mostly use it for ripping face frame material or the like, and cutting dadoes, rabbets. It’s easy to break out and fold away, which is pretty crucial given my limited space.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:41 am to GeauxldMember
thank you thats the saw ive been looking at, reviews seem to be good. on the 1/4" ply i need to cut, i can buy smaller project sheets so i wont have to deal with ripping a full sheet; 90% of what i'll need to do is ripping 1x6 or 1x8 down to 1x2 for stair/riser trim and to 1x4 for wall trim. and then obviously if i buy a new saw to do this i'll want to have a use for it in the future, which most likely will be the same...ripping lumber down
appreciate everyone's input. H&G board always delivers
appreciate everyone's input. H&G board always delivers
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