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Started By
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re: Boat wont start
Posted on 10/11/23 at 1:50 pm to trident
Posted on 10/11/23 at 1:50 pm to trident
Could be a bad kill switch or bad ignition switch. Both are easy to replace. If it neither of those neutral switch on the throttle may have failed. I would almost bet its the kill switch if it was working fine. I am the world's worst to jump to the worst case scenario when troubleshooting something only to find out it was the most simple thing that I over looked because it was too simple...
This post was edited on 10/11/23 at 1:54 pm
1
Posted on 10/11/23 at 2:15 pm to AwgustaDawg
As said, neutral positon, kill switch, etc.
I had this one day at the launch, and ruined a day of fishing, couldn't get anything to happen. Got back to the house and started pulling wires, reconnecting, turned out my main ground on the block was a little corroded.
Check grounds also.
Other thing in the past- is I had a battery wire corrode on the inside. Everything was attached correct, pulling my hair out with no results. Eventually discovered it when digital charger said bad connection or something like that. Cut wire open and it had corroded to nothing about a foot from the battery. Saltwater is great!
Good luck OP.
Also on Yamaha, the big fuse on motor is prone to pop. Used to carry spares.
I had this one day at the launch, and ruined a day of fishing, couldn't get anything to happen. Got back to the house and started pulling wires, reconnecting, turned out my main ground on the block was a little corroded.
Check grounds also.
Other thing in the past- is I had a battery wire corrode on the inside. Everything was attached correct, pulling my hair out with no results. Eventually discovered it when digital charger said bad connection or something like that. Cut wire open and it had corroded to nothing about a foot from the battery. Saltwater is great!
Good luck OP.
Also on Yamaha, the big fuse on motor is prone to pop. Used to carry spares.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 2:30 pm to trident
quote:
Why wont my trim button work? That is what is baffling me
My outboard died on me while trimming motor underway. It would sputter when trying to restart but wouldn't kick over. Ended up being a loose nut on top of the battery terminal. Check your battery terminal connections. It was simple but it took me a bit to find it after fiddling with some things. Tightened the nut on post and then it was back like nothing was ever wrong.
This post was edited on 10/11/23 at 2:43 pm
Posted on 10/11/23 at 3:25 pm to trident
If it’s like mine, the starter relay went out on my Yamaha 300. And it’s the whole assembly on the 300, not a cheap fix. I did have a few issues with mine where I thought the battery was the issue, but I turned it off and that was it.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 4:39 pm to trident
Agree with everyone on the ground and battery connection suggestions. That’s where I would start.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 6:37 pm to trident
Make sure there is not an electronics breaker. If it trips everything is dead.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 7:18 pm to trident
I don’t know what you got but on my Mercs the boat electronics and the motor electronics are two different animals. The main battery cables go to the motor and feed trim, starting and auxiliary to the gauges.
The boat. Pumps, lights, electronics are fed from separate hot and ground from the battery. Two separate systems with the only common thread is the battery or connections to
Anytime you work electrical, a system of attack and a voltmeter are a must. A wiring diagram makes it immensely easier. The check this piece, check that switch or this happened one time approach is for suckers costs time and in most cases unnecessary money.
The boat. Pumps, lights, electronics are fed from separate hot and ground from the battery. Two separate systems with the only common thread is the battery or connections to
Anytime you work electrical, a system of attack and a voltmeter are a must. A wiring diagram makes it immensely easier. The check this piece, check that switch or this happened one time approach is for suckers costs time and in most cases unnecessary money.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 8:00 pm to trident
Recently had a similar issue on my rig. Had no power to trim, nothing to the motor had power.
It was just loose wires behind the Perko switch. If you have one it’s simple to check and fix. Just take off the outer cover and check the bolts for tightness on the wires connected to the back.
It was just loose wires behind the Perko switch. If you have one it’s simple to check and fix. Just take off the outer cover and check the bolts for tightness on the wires connected to the back.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 7:55 am to trident
Remove cables and clean battery terminals no matter how clean they look.
Free to try
Free to try
Posted on 10/12/23 at 11:29 am to not Jack
Usually a fuse or breaker on engine where power comes in and gets distributed. Usually close to the starter.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 11:54 am to trident
Your batteries outa juice brah
Posted on 10/12/23 at 11:58 am to trident
Neutral safety switch?
Posted on 10/12/23 at 12:19 pm to Dissident Aggressor
I vote bad ground.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 2:11 pm to slacker130
quote:
I vote bad ground.
90% of every problem seems to be related to a ground.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 2:34 pm to trident
Do any of the other electronics work?
Posted on 10/13/23 at 6:01 am to Elusiveporpi
quote:
Do any of the other electronics work?
Fishfinder and trolling motor works.
Posted on 10/13/23 at 6:12 am to trident
This is giving me gas.
You need to check if you have voltage at the keyswitch. From there, see if you have voltage to the keyswitch terminal under the cowling. From there, see if you have voltage on the crank terminal of the keyswitch. From there, see if you have voltage to the crank solenoid. Next, check that all the grounds actually go to battery negative. Next, see if the starter solenoid is pulling in when the key is moved to crank. Next see if the cranking voltage is holding at least 10.5 volts with the starter engaged.
Somewhere in this process you'll find something not right. Fix that. Go fishing.
You need to check if you have voltage at the keyswitch. From there, see if you have voltage to the keyswitch terminal under the cowling. From there, see if you have voltage on the crank terminal of the keyswitch. From there, see if you have voltage to the crank solenoid. Next, check that all the grounds actually go to battery negative. Next, see if the starter solenoid is pulling in when the key is moved to crank. Next see if the cranking voltage is holding at least 10.5 volts with the starter engaged.
Somewhere in this process you'll find something not right. Fix that. Go fishing.
Posted on 10/13/23 at 7:43 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
You need to check if you have voltage at the keyswitch. From there, see if you have voltage to the keyswitch terminal under the cowling. From there, see if you have voltage on the crank terminal of the keyswitch. From there, see if you have voltage to the crank solenoid. Next, check that all the grounds actually go to battery negative. Next, see if the starter solenoid is pulling in when the key is moved to crank. Next see if the cranking voltage is holding at least 10.5 volts with the starter engaged.
I would also check the plug for the wire harness from the motor to your throttle/ignition controll. Pull apart, add dielectric grease, plug back in.
Posted on 10/13/23 at 10:20 am to trident
Thanks! I will try these comments and report back once, and if i can figure this thing out
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