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Started By
Message
Old School Mechanic Needed - 1974 Bronco
Posted on 6/18/22 at 1:03 pm
Posted on 6/18/22 at 1:03 pm
I am in need of mechanic recommendations in the Baton Rouge area for a 1974 Bronco. I have done my best and worked on what I can but I just can’t seem to get over the hump to make this thing run consistently.
I recently used a shade tree guy and he just made more problems. I am willing to pay quality prices for quality work but I am not looking to get gouged. Thanks!
I recently used a shade tree guy and he just made more problems. I am willing to pay quality prices for quality work but I am not looking to get gouged. Thanks!
9
Posted on 6/18/22 at 1:15 pm to Papercutninja
I am not in your area, but what is the vehicles problem?
Posted on 6/18/22 at 1:26 pm to Spankum
quote:
I am not in your area, but what is the vehicles problem?
He used the word consistently. I am going to say he needs someone that can read a sparkplug, tune a carburetor and troubleshoot a vacuum system.
The good ol days. Most parts changers these days will tell him to LS swap it.
Posted on 6/18/22 at 1:52 pm to Papercutninja
Change plugs, wires, distributor cap. Get a new carb or take the old one off, take it apart, soak parts in kerosene to clean out the gunk, get new gaskets, put it back on.
I used to buy old trucks like that for 1,000 bucks that didn’t run and 9/10 this was all they needed to get running. I’d do minor stuff to them, drive for fun a bit and flip it for a profit in summers during college for extra cash
Wish I had kept the 77 K5 blazer and my 72 Chevy C10
I used to buy old trucks like that for 1,000 bucks that didn’t run and 9/10 this was all they needed to get running. I’d do minor stuff to them, drive for fun a bit and flip it for a profit in summers during college for extra cash
Wish I had kept the 77 K5 blazer and my 72 Chevy C10
Posted on 6/18/22 at 2:01 pm to Papercutninja
The problem is “scope creep” with an old vehicle, getting it running better can be a full restoration. Paying a regular “mechanic” to get an old vehicle “reliable” can be a challenge, a costly challenge.
Best bet is an auto restoration shop, not a regular repair shop. Tell them exactly what how often you want to use it and how you want to use it (daily driver, weekend warrior etc). Is it a show/investment truck to keep exactly factory stock or you ok with newer modifications to make it more reliable?
My 1969 Mustang was not reliable, but looked great and was 100% factory stock, finally said “uncle” added a few mods (electronic ignition etc), now it looks almost stock, but runs great.
I do my own work, so no recommendations, but they are a couple shops around Baton Rouge.
Best bet is an auto restoration shop, not a regular repair shop. Tell them exactly what how often you want to use it and how you want to use it (daily driver, weekend warrior etc). Is it a show/investment truck to keep exactly factory stock or you ok with newer modifications to make it more reliable?
My 1969 Mustang was not reliable, but looked great and was 100% factory stock, finally said “uncle” added a few mods (electronic ignition etc), now it looks almost stock, but runs great.
I do my own work, so no recommendations, but they are a couple shops around Baton Rouge.
Posted on 6/18/22 at 2:39 pm to TigerHunting
Do it your self. Look up your problems on classicbroncos.com. I’d offer to help but I no longer live in the area.
Posted on 6/18/22 at 8:05 pm to Papercutninja
Unfortunately you’ll get charged nicely for a Bronco right now.
I’d go to a restoration shop. They’ll be in tune with these older trucks.
There was a guy on Industriaplex who has about a dozen ones who knows the trade well.
I’d go to a restoration shop. They’ll be in tune with these older trucks.
There was a guy on Industriaplex who has about a dozen ones who knows the trade well.
Posted on 6/18/22 at 10:14 pm to TigerHunting
quote:
The problem is “scope creep” with an old vehicle, getting it running better can be a full restoration. Paying a regular “mechanic” to get an old vehicle “reliable” can be a challenge, a costly challenge.
Best bet is an auto restoration shop, not a regular repair shop. Tell them exactly what how often you want to use it and how you want to use it (daily driver, weekend warrior etc). Is it a show/investment truck to keep exactly factory stock or you ok with newer modifications to make it more reliable?
My 1969 Mustang was not reliable, but looked great and was 100% factory stock, finally said “uncle” added a few mods (electronic ignition etc), now it looks almost stock, but runs great.
I do my own work, so no recommendations, but they are a couple shops around Baton Rouge.
THIS
I buy and restore a lot of vehicles. You never know what it needs until you start peeling back the layers! And do you want it running for cheap, or fixed RIGHT? those are two very different mechanics lol
I'd be happy to talk you through troubleshooting any issues you have - post up the problems and let's discuss
Posted on 6/18/22 at 10:37 pm to deltaland
quote:
Change plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor button. Get a new carb or take the old one off, take it apart, soak parts in kerosene to clean out the gunk, get new gaskets, put it back on.
You forgot the old rotor button. That thing will get a carbon track burned in it, and create all kinds of misfire issues.
Posted on 6/19/22 at 10:02 am to D500MAG
Hard to beat an LS!!
Posted on 6/19/22 at 10:24 am to Papercutninja
Pull the distributor add electronic ignition toss the carb add FI one .
Posted on 6/19/22 at 8:38 pm to Spankum
I just had the carb replaced and it can run ok. Im having some issues with the initial takeoff upon acceleration. Most of the sites say it’s an accelerator advance issue on the distributor cap.
Posted on 6/19/22 at 8:40 pm to TigerHunting
Thanks for the advice on the restoration shop. I’ve been trying to avoid that but I’m to a point that I’m tired of having to be worried when I try and drive it. I’m may start down that path.
Posted on 6/19/22 at 8:43 pm to bayou choupique
quote:
Do it your self.
If I had no time or knowledge constraints, this would be ideal but I’m too busy to dive in and make this a continuous project. When I bought it back in 2009 it was easier to keep up but it’s been a real challenge.
Posted on 6/19/22 at 10:13 pm to Papercutninja
This is timing or fuel related. I have a couple of questions:
1) What is your base timing set at ?
2) Is your vacuum advance connected and is it connected to port or manifold vacuum?
3) Do you have a timing light to verify that your timing advance is working, and how much advance your getting?
4) What kind of carb is on it and how was the idle mixture set?
1) What is your base timing set at ?
2) Is your vacuum advance connected and is it connected to port or manifold vacuum?
3) Do you have a timing light to verify that your timing advance is working, and how much advance your getting?
4) What kind of carb is on it and how was the idle mixture set?
Posted on 6/20/22 at 10:17 am to TigerHunting
quote:
My 1969 Mustang was not reliable, but looked great and was 100% factory stock, finally said “uncle” added a few mods (electronic ignition etc), now it looks almost stock, but runs great.
People who never dealt with Rotors, rotor caps, points and plugs you have to change every 5000-15000 miles ( at least yearly was recommended) really can't understand how much better cars are now, in terms of maintenance requirements.
Unless you are trying to get a showpiece together that is 100% original equipment, put an electronic ignition system in. ELiminate the traditional distributor, if you can (not familiar with what is out there).
Posted on 6/20/22 at 11:10 am to Papercutninja
Would you consider selling it? And do you have pics of it? Ill offer a more than fair price
Posted on 6/20/22 at 1:26 pm to Papercutninja
AGCO
Posted on 6/20/22 at 2:15 pm to One More Shot
quote:
Would you consider selling it
No, it is not for sale. Sorry. Unfortunately, if you’re in the market to buy a classic Bronco, there are no fair prices. With all of the old CJ body types getting bought up and the release of the new Bronco, the prices are nuts. I’ve seen Broncos with similar conditions to mine with $25k price tags and higher.
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