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Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Jackson Hole trip recap

Posted on 6/15/21 at 8:57 am
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5836 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 8:57 am
Another Yellowstone thread...but I took the wife and kids (9 & 10) out west the week of May 28-June 5. I gleaned a lot of info from this board, so I will post a rundown of our itinerary to help anyone else that may be planning. Long post so I won't include pics, but we've all seen the famous Yellowstone shots.

We originally had a trip to Yellowstone planned for 2020, and it was a last minute deal. Due to Covid we were able to cancel that trip and take time to properly plan for 2021. We were able to do more research and really flesh our trip out to include Jackson and the Tetons, and it wound up being an incredible trip.

We flew from MSY-JAC with a stop in DEN. We arrived in Jackson Hole around 1 pm, got our rental car and drove into Jackson. The Jackson Hole airport is pretty cool. It is small but a great combination of rustic and modern. Our first stop was to rent an ice chest, bear spray and some binoculars. We ate lunch at Jackson Drug on the square and did a little wandering around town. We stopped at a grocery store to stock up with food/drinks and headed north to Yellowstone. We stopped at the Grand Teton sign for pics, as well as a few pullouts around Jackson Lake. We got to the Old Faithful area around 8 pm and spent the night at the OF Snow Lodge. We ordered dinner to go from the hotel restaurant.

The first day we were up early and saw Old Faithful erupt around 8:30. The weather was chilly but bright, we had a cup of coffee and pastries from the cafeteria nearby while we waited on the benches. Old Faithful was pretty underwhelming to me. After hearing about it my whole life I guess I had built up expectations, but oh well we crossed it off the list. After the eruption we spent an hour or so on the boardwalks checking out other geysers and hot pools. They were pretty cool to see. We then drove to Biscuit Basin to see more pools and hiked to the Mystic Falls overlook. It was a decent climb and gave great views back over the geyser field. Next stop was the hike to the Grand Prismatic overlook. We didn't do the boardwalks around this one because it is so large. The overlook gave a much better view. We then continued the hike to Fairy Falls. It was a long out and back hike, but we spent some time at the falls and let the kids play in the water before walking back out. We were supposed to visit the Norris Geyser basin next, but the parking lot was full and the kids were tired from the long Fairy Falls hike. Honestly by this point the geysers and springs all started to look alike. We drove on toward Mammoth Hot Springs with a few stops to see waterfalls along the way. We drove the upper terrace loop and walked the lower terrace boardwalks around Mammoth. We ate at the Terrace Grill and then drove on to Canyon Lodge for the night.

Day 2 We got up early again and drove to Artist Point. Another chilly but clear morning. We got to the overlook around 8 am and only had 1 or 2 other small groups there. Took some nice photos and then moved on to Brink of Upper falls. Did a small hike to the falls. Uncle Tom's trail was closed so we drove around to the North Rim and went down to the Brink of Lower Falls. This was a great overlook right at the edge of the falls. Lots of switchbacks to get up and down, but it was a nice payoff.
After finishing up around the Grand Canyon area we moved on towards Mammoth Springs again. We stopped for a quick hike to Ice Lake and at a picnic lunch. We checked in the Mammoth Springs Hotel and then drove out to Gardiner, MT. We ate dinner in Gardiner, bought a few souvenirs, and took pictures at the Roosevelt Arch.

Day 3 we grabbed coffee and the kids ate in the car as we headed out early to Lamar Valley. We were covered in buffalo and elk, and we even got to see a wolf in the Valley. We stopped at Trout Lake on the eastern edge of the valley. It was a quick hike, but we spent an hour or so walking around the lake. It was so beautiful and peaceful. We saw a moose grazing above us and an osprey sitting in the trees watching for fish in the lake. From there we drove the Beartooth Highway out to Red Lodge, MT. We stopped a few times to play in the snow, as well as at the summit of Beartooth Pass. Red Lodge was a decent town, but there were only 2-3 restaurants open so we had quite a wait for lunch. We headed back into the park through Cody, WY for another night in Canyon Lodge. We spent an hour or so in Hayden Valley that evening and was able to see a grizzly sow and cub for about 10 seconds before they disappeared over the hill.

Day 4 we slept in and drove through Hayden Valley towards Lake Yellowstone. We walked around the grounds of the hotel and then drove on to the West Thumb Geyser Basin. We walked this boardwalk, but by this point we had seen enough geysers. We headed south out of the park towards the Tetons. We made a few stops for pictures of the mountains as we meandered through the valley. Stops included Elk Ranch Flats, Snake River Overlook (Ansel Adams portrait), Schwabacher landing, and the Chapel of the Transfiguration. We ate lunch at Colter Bay village and worked our way to Jenny Lake lodge. We had dinner reservations at the Mural Room at the Jackson Lake Lodge that night. The lodge was beautiful with huge 2 story windows facing the Tetons. Dinner was expensive but nothing special. After dinner we went on the terrace and watched the sun set behind the Tetons and saw a moose feeding below us.

Day 5 we ate breakfast at the Jenny Lake lodge and then drove to the trailhead and caught the ferry across Jenny Lake. The wait was about 45 mins to catch the boat. Once across the lake we hiked to Hidden Falls and then on to Inspiration Point. Great hike, a little crowded but we enjoyed it. Hiked along the river and then up to look back over the lake. We waited about 20 mins to catch the boat back across the lake. We ate a picnic lunch at the trailhead and then drove out to Mormon Row to see the barns. We continued south along the Gros Ventre river and saw a moose out in the river. It was a cool sight for us Louisiana foks. Dinner that night in Jenny Lake lodge.

Day 6 we slept in and ate breakfast at the lodge. We did a 10 am horseback ride on the String Lake trail. It was awesome. I grew up with horses but it was the first time for my wife and kids. They did great, it was a scenic relaxing ride into the Tetons with 2 river crossings. Wonderful experience. After the ride we checked out of Jenny Lake and headed south to Jackson. We ate a late lunch at Liberty Burger in JH and then hit some shops around the town square. We spent some time relaxing in the room and then drove back to Mormon Row for family pictures. We ate dinner at the Silver Dollar Grill in the Wort Hotel.

Day 7 we ate breakfast in the hotel and then walked over to Dave Hansen for a whitewater rafting trip. Rafting wasn't on my radar for this trip until we saw the buses running through town. We inquired and they had availability on our last day. The trip included a 30 min bus ride each way, and a little over an hour on the water. We had a great time, the water was cold even with a wetsuit on. We ate lunch at a restaurant called Local in Jackson- one of the best burgers I've ever had. We got some ice cream at Moo's Creamery- also some of the best I've ever had. We went back to the room to pack and had a slice of pizza from Pinky G's that night for dinner.

The last morning we were up early for a 7 am flight out of Jackson. We boarded the plane from the runway and got a nice last pic of the kids with the Tetons. Made a connection in Houston and then wheels down in NOLA and back to reality.
Posted by Salmon
On the trails
Member since Feb 2008
83557 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 9:07 am to
sounds like a great trip

9 & 10 years old is also a perfect age for that trip and something they will always remember
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5836 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 9:07 am to
Takeaways from trip:

We spent 4 nights inside Yellowstone, and at a different place each night. Great advice from this board, even though the wife was skeptical about picking up and moving each night. Saved time by not having to retrace drives each morning. The road between Canyon and Tower/Roosevelt was closed so we did have to go the long way to get to Lamar Valley.

Food inside Yellowstone was not good. No restaurants offered dine-in, and many were closed completely. Most General Stores at each area were open from 9-6, which is when people are out sightseeing. If you need supplies early or late, you are SOL.

Yellowstone was great for wildlife, and the views in Teton NP were amazing. We did great hikes in both, the wife and I would like to go back without the kids to do a couple of the more challenging hikes inside Grand Teton.

The crowds weren't bad for us. I had read horror stories of each place in Yellowstone being overrun with tourists in June/July. I think we beat those crowds by a week or so, plus we got started early each morning. Some places we had all to ourselves. The only real wait we had was to catch the boat across Jenny Lake, and it wasn't too bad.

Jackson is a cool town. We stayed on the square right in the middle of everything. You can knock out the stores/shops in a day or so and then venture out for other adventures.

Overall the trip was probably the best family vacation we've ever done. It took some time to plan, but well worth it in the end.
Posted by HoustonGumbeauxGuy
Member since Jul 2011
29504 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 9:10 am to

Posted by LSU
Houston
Member since Oct 2003
8831 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 9:13 am to
We did most all of this as well a couple weeks ago. Awesome places!
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
20443 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 9:21 am to
Great review and glad to hear you had a great trip! It truly is a great vacation, you guys did it well.
Posted by Aubie Spr96
lolwut?
Member since Dec 2009
41109 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 10:59 am to
We are leaving on the 23rd for our week long stay in Jackson. Never been before and I'm looking forward to it.
Posted by BRich
Old Metairie
Member since Aug 2017
2210 posts
Posted on 6/15/21 at 2:29 pm to
Thanks for the recap-- I appreciate the insights; we will be leaving for essentially the same trip a month from tomorrow.

Will no doubt be warmer, but definitely more crowded.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1320 posts
Posted on 6/16/21 at 6:50 am to
quote:

We spent 4 nights inside Yellowstone, and at a different place each night. Great advice from this board, even though the wife was skeptical about picking up and moving each night. Saved time by not having to retrace drives each morning. The road between Canyon and Tower/Roosevelt was closed so we did have to go the long way to get to Lamar Valley.

Food inside Yellowstone was not good. No restaurants offered dine-in, and many were closed completely. Most General Stores at each area were open from 9-6, which is when people are out sightseeing. If you need supplies early or late, you are SOL.
Thanks for the trip report, you did a lot. We went two years ago and cannot wait to go back.

Just curious if your wife agreed with staying in different places after being there or thinks staying in one place is better?

I agree about the food; it is average at best even when they have dine in service. We ate most of our meals at the lodge on Lake Yellowstone except one day we drove to West Yellowstone to get a better meal. The pancakes they serve at the breakfast places looked good though.

When you go back and if you have an interest in the old west, the Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody, WY is a must see IMO. It is actually 5 museums in one; western art, guns, natural history, plains Indians and Buffalo Bill. It is an all day event.
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5836 posts
Posted on 6/16/21 at 7:42 am to
quote:

Just curious if your wife agreed with staying in different places after being there or thinks staying in one place is better?


Before the trip she was questioning it, but after a few days she (and I) had a better understanding of how to get around and we both agreed it was the best way to do it. Each night we would just get out toiletries and the items needed for the next day and put away the dirty clothes and roll out.

The best thing we did was rent a cooler and keep drinks/cold cuts/peanut butter in the car. I think we ate sandwiches everyday in the park for lunch. Made it very easy to stay on the move and ahead of the crowds. The best meal we had during the Yellowstone portion of our trip was from Yellowstone Pizza Co. in Gardiner. Decent pizza but we liked the fact that we could dine-in rather than eat in the car or our hotel room.

We passed right by the museum in Cody, it looked very nice. By that time we had done a few morning hikes and had just finished lunch in Red Lodge- the kids were sleeping so we didn't stop. It's funny because I've been to his grave in Golden, CO.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1320 posts
Posted on 6/16/21 at 9:20 am to
quote:

after a few days she (and I) had a better understanding of how to get around and we both agreed it was the best way to do it.

I understand, before we went some of the frequent visitors on the TB recommended staying in different places and that didn't make sense to me. But after being there I get it.

Posted by tigereye58
Member since Jan 2007
2668 posts
Posted on 6/16/21 at 9:36 am to
Where did you rent the cooler and what was the best grocery store in Jackson. I was thinking the Albertsons and doing a grocery pick up. I didn’t even think about renting the cooler. I was going to buy a cheap one and just leave it.
Posted by LSU
Houston
Member since Oct 2003
8831 posts
Posted on 6/16/21 at 9:40 am to
quote:

what was the best grocery store in Jackson. I was thinking the Albertsons


We stocked up at Albertson's the day we arrived a couple weeks ago. Styrofoam cooler from there worked fine for our 10 day trip.

We stayed in 8 different hotels & just used the ice machine each morning to keep it cool.
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5836 posts
Posted on 6/16/21 at 11:10 am to
quote:

Where did you rent the cooler and what was the best grocery store in Jackson. I was thinking the Albertsons and doing a grocery pick up. I didn’t even think about renting the cooler. I was going to buy a cheap one and just leave it.


We had originally planned on buying a foam one and trashing it, but our very first stop after landing was Teton Backcountry Rentals on the way to Jackson. I was stopping there to get bear spray and binoculars (I forgot mine) but I saw on their website they rented coolers also so we got a knockoff brand Yeti cooler for pretty cheap.

We kicked around Jackson for a few hours then hit Smith's on the southside of town to get groceries before heading into Yellowstone. There is an Albertson's in Jackson as well.
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
35749 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 12:41 am to
I spent an hour watching the grizzly, known as 399, and her 4 cubs today. Before we saw her I watched a boar grizzly chase down an elk....kill was not seen, if he got it. I was watching him for 30 minutes before he “disappeared”. Turns out he saw that elk coming before we did and hid. He jumped up in an instant and was at full speed looking for lunch. I luckily saw it all through binoculars.

I’m headed back to Yellowstone in the am but going to stop and look for bears in the same spot I saw them. They’ve been seen very regularly there.

I hate the word epic but my experience was pretty much....epic.

Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
35749 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 8:04 am to
A gentleman I met who watched the action with me sent me this.



Here’s a crappy camera pic of 399 and cubs. I’m going to finally invest in a real camera after this trip.

Posted by steve123
Member since Jul 2011
1306 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 8:13 am to
Wow, what an awesome experience. Do you mind me asking where this was? Promise I’m not showing up ahead of you to steal your spot, but we will be in Tetons/Yellowstone in 3 weeks (leave July 10) and love to see some wildlife while we’re there.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1320 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 8:37 am to
quote:

I spent an hour watching the grizzly, known as 399, and her 4 cubs today. Before we saw her I watched a boar grizzly chase down an elk....kill was not seen, if he got it.
Very cool. Were you hiking or did you see that from the road?
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
35749 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 8:43 am to
I’ll give you specifics tomorrow.

ETA...what’s your email?
This post was edited on 6/17/21 at 9:00 am
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
35749 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 8:43 am to
From the road.
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