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What are you using to clean your guns?
Posted on 7/3/20 at 11:01 am
Posted on 7/3/20 at 11:01 am
I'm a newbie when it comes to this. Looking for recommendations on different cleaners and oils/ lubes. Is hoppes good?
Posted on 7/3/20 at 11:14 am to Easye921
Hoppes, Copper Killer when needed.
Synthetic motor oil for lube. It doesn't dry out like Break-Free and makes cleaning much easier.
Synthetic motor oil for lube. It doesn't dry out like Break-Free and makes cleaning much easier.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 11:31 am to Easye921
My AR, I clean it in the shower with hot water and shampoo, then spray it inside with a little WD-40 and then apply a little LSA. If I've been shooting it a lot, I'll use some copper cleaner, before getting in the shower.
Everything else, I use Hoppes cleaning kit.
Everything else, I use Hoppes cleaning kit.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 11:39 am to Easye921
think of walmart as your steady.
remoil for clean and lube.
remoil for clean and lube.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 12:31 pm to Easye921
I enjoy breaking down my guns and taking the time to clean them while watching something interesting on TV, so I use different products for different things and generally spend an hour cleaning a weapon. Not everyone does it my way, though.
I use Hoppe's M-Pro 7 to clean and strip parts. It doesn't lubricate, though.
For lubrication, I use Hoppe's No. 9 oil in a needle applicator to lubricate things like small parts that viscous grease might not work on or to lubricate things like ARs that like to run really wet.
Tetra gun grease on everything else.
Hoppe's No. 9 bore solvent to strip the bore when needed.
I like to take my time and enjoy cleaning. Others want it to just be done adequately and quickly, and you can sufficiently clean a modern weapon in ten or fifteen minutes, easy. Every one of us will have different products and cleaning regimens we prefer, so don't believe any of our bullshite as God's gospel. Really, a single plain old bottle of CLP, a bore snake, a nylon brush, and an old t-shirt will provide for pretty much all of your cleaning and lubrication needs if that's what you prefer.
I use Hoppe's M-Pro 7 to clean and strip parts. It doesn't lubricate, though.
For lubrication, I use Hoppe's No. 9 oil in a needle applicator to lubricate things like small parts that viscous grease might not work on or to lubricate things like ARs that like to run really wet.
Tetra gun grease on everything else.
Hoppe's No. 9 bore solvent to strip the bore when needed.
I like to take my time and enjoy cleaning. Others want it to just be done adequately and quickly, and you can sufficiently clean a modern weapon in ten or fifteen minutes, easy. Every one of us will have different products and cleaning regimens we prefer, so don't believe any of our bullshite as God's gospel. Really, a single plain old bottle of CLP, a bore snake, a nylon brush, and an old t-shirt will provide for pretty much all of your cleaning and lubrication needs if that's what you prefer.
This post was edited on 7/3/20 at 12:35 pm
Posted on 7/3/20 at 1:49 pm to Easye921
CLP mostly, have Hoppes #7 and Montana Copper Killer too but not used much.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 1:57 pm to Easye921
TigerstuckinMS makes a good point: it can vary depending upon what you are cleaning. My pistols don’t get very dirty in between cleaning. For them I will normally use some CLP to clean and lube. On the other hand, it’s different if I am cleaning rifles where there’s usually more copper and baked in powder. If really dirty, I like to use Wipe Out in the bore and let it sit for a varying length of time depending on how quickly It comes clean. i If very dirty, I may let it sit 8 to 12 hours. If not very dirty, the wipe out will usually take care of it by itself. If dirty, in between applications of wipe out I will use a combination of copper brush and patches with Butch’s Bore shine and mixture of Kroil/shooters choice bore cleaner. This week I intend to clean some guns from my recent Prairie Dog Hunt that have up to 400 rounds in them from the hunt. It may take days cleaning them. I like wipe out because it minimizes the brushing necessary. Hoppes #9 is good when there’s mainly a lot of carbon fouling. I don’t use the strong ammonia-based agents nearly as much as I used to. I put on a layer of CLP, Eezox or Shooter’s Rust Preventer on the outside at the end. The inside of the bore gets an application of Kroil/shooters choice in it once I’m done.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 2:10 pm to Easye921
Use Hoppe's No.9 bore cleaner on a Hoppe's BoreSnake. I pull through the barrel 4-5 times.
For lube/oil: My grandfather was a Gunsmith. He always had a nice pink oil in his squirt can to lube/wipe down his guns and his client's guns. That lube was Automatic Transmission Fluid.
I use the ATF to this day. Nothing better for such a wide range of temperatures. Never seen it get to cold that it freezes up, or to hot that it loses its lubricating ability. Plus a Quart of ATF is cheap, and lasts a long time.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF
For lube/oil: My grandfather was a Gunsmith. He always had a nice pink oil in his squirt can to lube/wipe down his guns and his client's guns. That lube was Automatic Transmission Fluid.
I use the ATF to this day. Nothing better for such a wide range of temperatures. Never seen it get to cold that it freezes up, or to hot that it loses its lubricating ability. Plus a Quart of ATF is cheap, and lasts a long time.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF
Posted on 7/3/20 at 2:44 pm to Easye921
quote:
What are you using to clean your guns?
Pistol, rifle, shotgun, Red Ryder ?
Posted on 7/3/20 at 2:53 pm to auggie
Saw this happen in ait, didn’t end well for the privates.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 3:21 pm to Easye921
Cleaned my .300 yesterday. Hoppe's #9 on a wet patch, H#9 on a nylon brush 10 strokes, dry patch X3-5, Sweets on a wet patch x2, Sweets on a copper brush 10-14 strokes, dry patch x6-10, clean chamber with brake clean, 91% alcohol on a patch x2, swab dry patch until clean. Lightly oiled patch with 3in1 oil.
Barrel is slick and clean now.
Barrel is slick and clean now.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 3:22 pm to Possumslayer
Depends on what your gun is, but in general, any decent clean-lube-protect (CLP) is fine.
I'm partial to both Ballistol, and to food-grade synthetic air compressor oil (Lubriplate is the main namebrand in this game, but I've got something listed as a replacement).
Synthetic motor oil is generally considered as just fine, the biggest concern is to get the correct weight; most gun products are in the 20 weight range.
Regarding cleaning at a SERIOUS level, I grab a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner, which is identical to Bore Scrubber but about $10 cheaper per can. A real solvent is better than an all-in-one product for cleaning. Careful on wood and plastics, but my guns are all metal.
Note, you have to relube afterwards, if you do that.
Might want to google Ed's Red, it's a home-brew recipe that is very respected.
Since you're new to this, understand- a lot of gun oil products are basically snake oil; highly priced versions of something already on the market for something else. Guns aren't "special", they're machines that need lube, prevent fouling, clean carbon etc, prevent corrosion. It's preferable to use something non-toxic, if you can.
Hell, I remember a couple years back there was an outcry because somebody was marketing something, that under testing came back suspiciously close to non-stick high-heat canola oil spray. It sounds ludicrous, until you step back a second and consider what you put your stainless steel pans through on the stove, vs what you put a rifle bolt carrier group through. Probably not the best, but I imagine it would function fine. Don't try it
I'm partial to both Ballistol, and to food-grade synthetic air compressor oil (Lubriplate is the main namebrand in this game, but I've got something listed as a replacement).
Synthetic motor oil is generally considered as just fine, the biggest concern is to get the correct weight; most gun products are in the 20 weight range.
Regarding cleaning at a SERIOUS level, I grab a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner, which is identical to Bore Scrubber but about $10 cheaper per can. A real solvent is better than an all-in-one product for cleaning. Careful on wood and plastics, but my guns are all metal.
Note, you have to relube afterwards, if you do that.
Might want to google Ed's Red, it's a home-brew recipe that is very respected.
Since you're new to this, understand- a lot of gun oil products are basically snake oil; highly priced versions of something already on the market for something else. Guns aren't "special", they're machines that need lube, prevent fouling, clean carbon etc, prevent corrosion. It's preferable to use something non-toxic, if you can.
Hell, I remember a couple years back there was an outcry because somebody was marketing something, that under testing came back suspiciously close to non-stick high-heat canola oil spray. It sounds ludicrous, until you step back a second and consider what you put your stainless steel pans through on the stove, vs what you put a rifle bolt carrier group through. Probably not the best, but I imagine it would function fine. Don't try it
Posted on 7/3/20 at 3:23 pm to Easye921
I use safari Charlie for everything
Posted on 7/3/20 at 3:33 pm to Possumslayer
quote:
Saw this happen in ait, didn’t end well for the privates.
I've been doing it for 35 years, to my AR. Those rifles are designed to be carried anywhere, in any weather. Water doesn't hurt 'em and it's an easy way to clean some of the small crevices, plus, I never had a problem with split ends.
Posted on 7/3/20 at 3:39 pm to Possumslayer
quote:
What are you using to clean your guns?Sure thing Alice....
If water hurts your AR, you bought a piece of shite AR, Maybe you can do better next time, little sister.
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