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Utility Trailer wiring question
Posted on 6/11/25 at 4:36 pm
Posted on 6/11/25 at 4:36 pm
I have a 12' utility trailer I use, and I'd been having issues with the wiring in it and the 4 prong plug was loose and falling out while I was driving, so I decided I would just rewire it.
The lights had been working fine, so I just cut the wires a few inches in from the lights and left the lights and just spliced them. Ran the new wiring, and drilled a hole in the frame and screwed in the new ground.
Here's what I'm seeing.
Marker lights work all the time.
With the lights off the flashers work. However the turn signals do nothing, I turn one on and it flashes once on the truck and stop and nothing on the trailer, either side.
With the lights on, the flashers and turn signals are weak, meaning that I can see the light pulse slighly, but not bright and normal.
Does that sound like a ground issue? I wonder if I shold remove the rear lights and check for rush not letting a good ground connection. I haven't done that yet, but wanted to ask what the experts might think I've got wrong.
The lights had been working fine, so I just cut the wires a few inches in from the lights and left the lights and just spliced them. Ran the new wiring, and drilled a hole in the frame and screwed in the new ground.
Here's what I'm seeing.
Marker lights work all the time.
With the lights off the flashers work. However the turn signals do nothing, I turn one on and it flashes once on the truck and stop and nothing on the trailer, either side.
With the lights on, the flashers and turn signals are weak, meaning that I can see the light pulse slighly, but not bright and normal.
Does that sound like a ground issue? I wonder if I shold remove the rear lights and check for rush not letting a good ground connection. I haven't done that yet, but wanted to ask what the experts might think I've got wrong.
10
Posted on 6/11/25 at 5:09 pm to kywildcatfanone
quote:
Does that sound like a ground issue?
quote:
Utility Trailer wiring
Its always the ground.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 5:39 pm to kywildcatfanone
Yep, have had the exact thing happen and it’s the ground. Make sure the studs on the lights are making good contact with the frame, and that you’re grounding all the way back to the vehicle from them through the frame.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 6:13 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
So, if the marker lights are fine, it's probably the brake/turn sign lights i need to focus on? Take those off first?
Posted on 6/11/25 at 8:04 pm to kywildcatfanone
99% of the time it’s either the ground or the plug. More likely the ground, although you changing the plug might make the odds a little more favorable.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 8:24 pm to kywildcatfanone
I think trailer lights are from the devil.
I’ve resigned myself to running new wires about once every 3-4 years. I just buy a whole kit from e-trailer.com and redo it.
I never do marker lights on small utility trailers as that’s another thing that can go wrong.
And I always get silicon impregnated wire nuts to make all connections. And I make sure to wire brush all light bolt-on and ground connections to the frame.
I’ve resigned myself to running new wires about once every 3-4 years. I just buy a whole kit from e-trailer.com and redo it.
I never do marker lights on small utility trailers as that’s another thing that can go wrong.
And I always get silicon impregnated wire nuts to make all connections. And I make sure to wire brush all light bolt-on and ground connections to the frame.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 8:33 pm to CatSquirrel
Running dedicated ground wires to everything helps tremendously. You shouldn't need to rewire it basically ever. Pretend its a boat and wire it like that and you'll have far less trouble
Eta : and dont use wire nuts. That's for buildings. Stuff that moves needs adhesive splices.
Eta : and dont use wire nuts. That's for buildings. Stuff that moves needs adhesive splices.
This post was edited on 6/11/25 at 8:35 pm
Posted on 6/11/25 at 8:44 pm to kywildcatfanone
Whenever I have trailer light problems I rip everything off, go to Tractor Supply and get a whole new kit for $40. I can just about run new lights in the time it takes me to diagnose a problem.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 8:44 pm to kywildcatfanone
Did you remove the paint from the area around the screw when you drilled the new ground hole?
Posted on 6/11/25 at 9:11 pm to kywildcatfanone
frickin ground
Posted on 6/11/25 at 9:18 pm to JackaReaux
From the way the first post read, your ground was tied in through the plug, but you rerouted to trailer frame when you drilled and screwed..,... or am I reading that wrong? I do it both ways, ground to frame and run back on plug ground.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 9:21 pm to kywildcatfanone
Get a 2 inch wire cup brush for a drill. Clean trailer ball and under side of hitch where ball goes. Rust buildup on both will cause grounding issues.
Posted on 6/11/25 at 10:25 pm to kywildcatfanone
Is your trailer on the truck ball when you are testing the lights?
Or is it only plugged in, but not touching the truck?
Or is it only plugged in, but not touching the truck?
Posted on 6/12/25 at 5:02 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Its always the ground.
Often enough that its never anything else LOL.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 5:29 am to bbvdd
quote:
Did you remove the paint from the area around the screw when you drilled the new ground hole?
Yeah, but maybe not enough. Will check it today.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 5:32 am to Contender54
quote:
Is your trailer on the truck ball when you are testing the lights?
Or is it only plugged in, but not touching the truck?
Actually in my testing, I've not actually put the trailer on the truck ball. The trailer is in my garage, so I've just been backing up close, not actually connecting them.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 5:35 am to Wraytex
quote:
From the way the first post read, your ground was tied in through the plug, but you rerouted to trailer frame when you drilled and screwed..,... or am I reading that wrong? I do it both ways, ground to frame and run back on plug ground.
The nee wire kit has the ground coming out of the plug, about a foot long with a ring connection, so I drilled a hole in the frame and screwed it in with dielectric grease. I did wire wheel the area first.
The old wire kit I removed had the ground go all the way to the rear brake light.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 6:35 am to kywildcatfanone
quote:
Actually in my testing, I've not actually put the trailer on the truck ball. The trailer is in my garage, so I've just been backing up close, not actually connecting them.
Well, this could be good news. Let us know if connecting the trailer to the truck ball helps.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 7:27 am to kywildcatfanone
Trailer light troubleshooting is the worst. I came across this a few weeks ago. I don't know anyone who has them or anyone that has used them but in theory they seem like a game changer. Magnetic, wireless brake lights. Would love to hear feedback if anyone has any experience with them. The link attached is just for reference to a product on Amazon but there are multiple versions out there. The logic seems solid if you have the right trailer for application. Definitely would end the whole wire troubleshooting issue.
Wireless Trailer Lights on Amazon
Wireless Trailer Lights on Amazon
This post was edited on 6/12/25 at 7:28 am
Posted on 6/12/25 at 7:54 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Running dedicated ground wires to everything helps tremendously.
This. Dont rely on the frame for ground contact. Run a ground wire to each tail light and back to the plug.
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