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re: rifle scopes holding zeros
Posted on 1/15/25 at 10:12 am to Warwick
Posted on 1/15/25 at 10:12 am to Warwick
My rifles have held zero for several years, and they are all basic old scopes (Leupold, Redfield). I do check them before the season starts and almost never have to adjust anything.
A few years ago I did have a problem with erratic shots, and it was because I needed to rod out the barrel. Once I did that everything got back right.
My suggestion - clean your barrels good, go back to the ammo you used to use when they were accurate, and lastly, get your triggers adjusted to around 3 lbs. or less. The light trigger will make you much better as a shooter.
A few years ago I did have a problem with erratic shots, and it was because I needed to rod out the barrel. Once I did that everything got back right.
My suggestion - clean your barrels good, go back to the ammo you used to use when they were accurate, and lastly, get your triggers adjusted to around 3 lbs. or less. The light trigger will make you much better as a shooter.
0
Posted on 1/15/25 at 10:21 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
what about a new rifle with picatinny rail on top? Looking at the Ruger American Gen2 Ranch for my boy and it's got a rail. What QD or Attachment device do you recommend that holds a good zero?
This would be paired with a low power/good light capture scope for thick brush hunting from tree stands
This would be paired with a low power/good light capture scope for thick brush hunting from tree stands
This post was edited on 1/15/25 at 10:27 am
Posted on 1/15/25 at 10:24 am to The Levee
Brand of scope. They make big nasty scopes that were originally designed for the M24 sniper rifle program. Used to be incredibly good value, they were damn cheap for how awesome they are. Now they're still a good value but not the screaming deal they were for so long. The 3-15 used go on sale for $450 not that long ago, now they are like $700.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 10:26 am to The Levee
quote:
What QD or Attachment device do you recommend that holds a good zero?
Any steel mount should be fine. Sportsmatch are what the cool kids like nowadays i think. I would make sure the rail is installed properly. That link that was provided earlier is some solid instructions.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 12:09 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
. I would make sure the rail is installed properly.
I wouldn't buy the cheapest rail either. Some of them don't match the contour of the action. Stay away from Monstrom. $60 on up for a rail should be a good one.
I'd buy some good scope rings. They will keep a cheap scope zeroed. Cheap scopes are cheap because the internals won't let you dial for long range. If you just want zero at 100 yds it'll hold it.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 12:20 pm to saintsfan1977
this thread is loaded with good advice. Thanks
Posted on 1/15/25 at 12:40 pm to saintsfan1977
quote:
buy some good scope rings. They will keep a cheap scope zeroed. Cheap scopes are cheap because the internals won't let you dial for long range. If you just want zero at 100 yds it'll hold it.
That isn't true. The scope guts are equally important, and paying more does not necessarily make them more reliable. SWFA makes some of the most durable scopes, and they cost far less than swarvoski, which is famously not durable at all, and welding the scope to the rings to the rail to the action wont fix that. The scope guts are jiggling around.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 1:36 pm to The Levee
quote:
What QD or Attachment device do you recommend that holds a good zero?
Any reputable attachment device will hold zero; I have the Aero Precision but that's not a difficult nut to crack.
QD is where you start paying for repeatable zero and you do pay, and they're going to be heavier. There may be others now but Geissele, LaRue & Bobro are the benchmarks.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 3:39 pm to Warwick
Buddy got a Savage Axis packaged with a cheap Weaver scope, started having erratic flyers while zeroing it an the front scope ring had gotten loose at the base. I retorqued all the scope ring hardware before we took it out but it still loosened up. Didn't use loctite at that is generally not done or needed with properly torqued scope hardware with a Picatinny base. Going to pull the whole thing apart when the new rings, stock, and trigger kit come in and redo it all anyway. One thing I do when attaching scope rings to a rail base is "wet" mount by applying a little oil to the rail and clamping section of the rings, anodized/phosphate coatings gall dry and will prevent accurate torque being applied.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 7:17 pm to 257WBY
That's good info and pretty much how I do it except:
-I don't put Loc-tite at the bottom of the scope base
-I don't put nail polish on the top of the scope ring screws.
-I always a multi-slot one piece base/Picatinny rail and Burris Signature Z-rings. Before using Signature rings, I lapped the rings.
-I don't put Loc-tite at the bottom of the scope base
-I don't put nail polish on the top of the scope ring screws.
-I always a multi-slot one piece base/Picatinny rail and Burris Signature Z-rings. Before using Signature rings, I lapped the rings.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 7:22 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
That isn't true. The scope guts are equally important, and paying more does not necessarily make them more reliable.
Im not talking about putting a cheap scope on a 300wm.
I bought a $100 Bushnell to put on a tikka 243. I'm not worried about the scope but those cheap tikka rings might not work.
This post was edited on 1/15/25 at 8:00 pm
Posted on 1/15/25 at 7:35 pm to The Levee
quote:
what about a new rifle with picatinny rail on top? Looking at the Ruger American Gen2 Ranch for my boy and it's got a rail. What QD or Attachment device do you recommend that holds a good zero?
I usually use a Weaver one piece multi-slot base, but sometimes I have to deviate. When I can't use the Weaver, it's still a one piece base. For example, my two builds using a Howa Mini-Action needed an Outer Impact base. Before that, my Noslsr Custom Handgun required a Leupold Back Country basel. I don't use the one piece rings/base combination. The one time I tried it, the location of the rings didn't match well w/ the available area of the scope to place the rings.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 7:43 pm to TigerOnThe Hill
quote:
Burris Signature Z-rings. Before using Signature rings, I lapped the rings.
Why do you lap rings with plastic inserts?
Posted on 1/15/25 at 8:07 pm to Success
quote:
You haven’t shot them in 10 years?
Have they gotten dropped or banged up?
Is your zero off left to right or elevation?
Same ammo as you used 10 years ago? Same grain bullet?
the .17 has pretty much sat in the safe for 10 yrs, yes.
the .300 has been used to bag whitetail ever year.
both rifles shot off to the right 2-3". elevation mostly fine.
honestly had no idea i needed to check this sort of things every year.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 8:08 pm to saintsfan1977
quote:
I bought a $100 Bushnell to put on a tikka 243. I'm not worried about the scope but those cheap tikka rings might not work.
Any scope rings by a reputable manufacturer will hold a $100 scope (and probably a lot more $$ than that) in place well beyond what the internals of the scope can withstand.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 8:11 pm to saintsfan1977
Recoil doesn't really matter. They're all designed to handle recoil, which is just a rearward impulse. It's all the vibration and bumps and knocks and drops that do it. Not many scopes are designed to handle that well. Everyone just assumes that it's normal and ok to lose zero after they drop their rifle. Get the right scope and you wont have to do that.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 8:18 pm to Flats
If you're super concerned about your rings, use blue loctite between the tube and the caps. Use blue loctite on every screw and every contact point of every piece. Scribe mark the rings and tube and rail and you'll have positive indication if anything ever moves. It won't. Your scopes guts are moving if there's an issue.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 8:23 pm to Warwick
“ both rifles shot off to the right 2-3". elevation mostly fine.
honestly had no idea i needed to check this sort of things every year.”
With both rifles being off to the right, that’s most likely a shooter issue on that day.
Other than making sure a rifle is on before hunting season, I also like to blow the oil out of it. I clean my rifles after the season and like to start the next season with a slightly dirty barrel.
honestly had no idea i needed to check this sort of things every year.”
With both rifles being off to the right, that’s most likely a shooter issue on that day.
Other than making sure a rifle is on before hunting season, I also like to blow the oil out of it. I clean my rifles after the season and like to start the next season with a slightly dirty barrel.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 9:10 pm to Warwick
quote:
both rifles shot off to the right 2-3". elevation mostly fine.
257 is right, for both to do the same thing is suspect. Damn well could be a you problem.
Posted on 1/15/25 at 10:14 pm to Warwick
Shoot every year before you hunt to make sure your rifle is zeroed correctly. That's what almost every hunter does.
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