- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Anyone know how to test 8 volt golf cart batteries?
Posted on 2/4/20 at 7:29 am
Posted on 2/4/20 at 7:29 am
I've a 48 Volt Club car. I believe that one or more of the 6 batteries are going bad due to fully charging and then not being at full power. Does anyone know how to test each battery to determine which ones may be bad or going bad?
5
Posted on 2/4/20 at 7:32 am to boudinman
Fully charge the battery pack. Then disconnect one lead from each battery and use a load tester to test each battery.
If you don’t disconnect one lead from each battery before testing, it could give you an inaccurate and false reading
If you don’t disconnect one lead from each battery before testing, it could give you an inaccurate and false reading
Posted on 2/4/20 at 7:33 am to boudinman
Fully charge them then take them out of series and test each one. See if a battery is below ~6.4v
Posted on 2/4/20 at 9:39 am to Success
I think also letting it sit for a little bit after a charge to let it settle?
Posted on 2/4/20 at 9:51 am to Success
quote:
See if a battery is below ~6.4v
Just a heads up a battery can show full voltage and not have the amps. Needs to be tested under load.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 10:01 am to highcotton2
quote:
Just a heads up a battery can show full voltage and not have the amps. Needs to be tested under load.
Are these 8 Volt batteries or 12 Volt Batteries. Either way. When I worked on x-ray equipment the portable X-ray units had 10- -12 volt batteries. If one of the batteries was below the 12 Volt threshold, we changed all 10 batteries. Not exactly ideal to change all the batteries, but if you measure them all and one is below the output rated voltage....it would most likely be your culprit. If they all measure up, then one or two probably drop when you apply a load.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 10:20 am to highcotton2
Correct. Checking volts with a volt meter doesn’t necessarily tell you if the battery has a bad cell or not.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 10:32 am to Jack Daniel
So take the seat off your golf cart. Have a buddy drive the cart around by doing some type of squat/hovering maneuver. You are on the passenger side and measure the voltage at each battery under load. Have someone film this just in case some hilarity ensues.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 11:18 am to DeoreDX
quote:
So take the seat off your golf cart. Have a buddy drive the cart around by doing some type of squat/hovering maneuver. You are on the passenger side and measure the voltage at each battery under load. Have someone film this just in case some hilarity ensues.
I personally would put it on jack stands to test this way but since it isn't me, I support this method.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 11:20 am to boudinman
Make sure to check out how old they are too. Sams sells some batteries that have worked great in mine.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 11:27 am to boudinman
I’m having the same issue in my 36V EZGO. I’ll charge it to a full charge, but the batteries will not last nearly as long as they did when we bought the cart.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 11:41 am to BallsEleven
Free spinning with the tires off the ground is not a load. The batteries need to be isolated from each other and load tested individually
Posted on 2/4/20 at 2:54 pm to boudinman
Update: I stopped at the local Autozone and found a $5.00 Lynx Battery Hydrometer. I had to test each of the 4 cells on every one of the 6 batteries. The good news is 5 of the 6 batteries are still good, and only need to buy 1 replacement 8 volt battery at over $100 a battery.
LINK
LINK
This post was edited on 2/4/20 at 3:04 pm
Posted on 2/4/20 at 3:24 pm to boudinman
What type of batteries are in the cart and How old are they? Also, Do you have a digital voltage meter installed to show the pack voltage real time?
I just finished a complete rebuild of a 2002 48v Club Car DS (series cart). Did tons of research and learned more than I wanted to about golf carts.
Here are the cliff notes with regard to batteries:
1. The voltage meter is a cheap way to know when it is time to charge the batteries without draining them too low. You can find a state of charge chart online (48V fully charged pack should read 50.93V and should not be discharged below 48.41V resting voltage)
2. Depending on who you believe, batteries, when properly maintained (i.e. adding distilled water as needed, checking levels every 30 days) can last anywhere from 4 years to 10 years.
3. Replacing one battery can work, but I was read that the single new battery can degrade faster and "match" the older batteries (not sure how true this is or how it works, just relaying info that I found in multiple locations.)
4. Whenever not being used, the cart should be plugged into the charger (assuming you have the stock or an aftermarket automatic charger.)
5. The Duracell golf cart batteries at Sams get mixed reviews on the golf cart message boards, they have a shorter warranty and a slightly lower AH rating (but are less expensive) than the Trojan batteries
I recently dropped the coin for 6 new batteries and I still feel the pain in my wallet. I wish I could afford to switch to a lithium setup.
I just finished a complete rebuild of a 2002 48v Club Car DS (series cart). Did tons of research and learned more than I wanted to about golf carts.
Here are the cliff notes with regard to batteries:
1. The voltage meter is a cheap way to know when it is time to charge the batteries without draining them too low. You can find a state of charge chart online (48V fully charged pack should read 50.93V and should not be discharged below 48.41V resting voltage)
2. Depending on who you believe, batteries, when properly maintained (i.e. adding distilled water as needed, checking levels every 30 days) can last anywhere from 4 years to 10 years.
3. Replacing one battery can work, but I was read that the single new battery can degrade faster and "match" the older batteries (not sure how true this is or how it works, just relaying info that I found in multiple locations.)
4. Whenever not being used, the cart should be plugged into the charger (assuming you have the stock or an aftermarket automatic charger.)
5. The Duracell golf cart batteries at Sams get mixed reviews on the golf cart message boards, they have a shorter warranty and a slightly lower AH rating (but are less expensive) than the Trojan batteries
I recently dropped the coin for 6 new batteries and I still feel the pain in my wallet. I wish I could afford to switch to a lithium setup.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 3:41 pm to Jack Daniel
quote:
Fully charge the battery pack. Then disconnect one lead from each battery and use a load tester to test each battery.
If you don’t disconnect one lead from each battery before testing, it could give you an inaccurate and false reading
You really only need to disconnect 1 lead in the series to eliminate the return voltage and it will only read the voltage across the battery.
quote:
The batteries need to be isolated from each other and load tested individually
Okay, you were a step ahead of me.
This post was edited on 2/4/20 at 3:44 pm
Posted on 2/6/20 at 9:34 am to Litigious Tiger
The 5 batteries that are showing good are a few years old, but they are Autocraft Gold by Advance Auto Parts, the battery thats showing bad is a Tough One Silver. Not sure who made the Tough One battery. I'm wary of replacing just the one bad battery but all the others have very good acid concentration according to the hydrometer. I just cant see replacing the other 5 when they are good, when they cost $110-$140 each.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News