re: What's the most intimidating dog you've ever come in contact with

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Bison or buffalo?

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There are basically two options in that kind of a situation, and both require you to focus on one dog at a time.

A) When the dog attempts to bite, protect yourself with your forearm, even with no sleeve. As he is biting down, don't wait, go on the offensive. Instead of simply holding your arm up, and waiting on him to bite, shove your arm as far back as you can in his mouth, similar-esqu to a horse's bit. There are 3 advantages when doing this.

1) In the back of the mouth they have molars, which are not designed to slice or pierce flesh like the front teeth.

2) The next advantage is you can then somewhat control him. At least, more than before. Allowing for greater leverage when trying to move him into a new position. Your arm can somewhat act as a weak fulcrum.

3) Lastly, if your arm is shoved as far back as it physically can be, the dog can't apply near the pressure he would normally generate. No pressure = no bite. Im this scenario your shoving of the arm against the jaw and teeth is more pressure than his bite force can achieve. You can then use your free hand to go on the offensive. One word of warning, watch our for their feet. They will attempt to disembowl you, like a cat would, if on their backs.

B) If the dog jumps on you, or if you can simply grab hold of him when he is in mid lunge/standing on the ground attempting to bite you. Take his paws and pull/push them apart, as far as you can. Unless the dog is simply too heavy, or too strong, for you to control the feet and legs before putting them in the weakened position. If either if these is the case, uou have the strength of a little girl, and probably wouldn't be able to do this next part anyway. Regardless, catching the paws in midair is the easiest way to gain the leverage necessary to accomplish the task ahead.

After the chest and leg muscles have developed past the puppy stage. Their legs aren't designed to go straight out to the sides. When forced beyond a certain point, which at best is somewhere around 40° from normal, severe injury occurs. The sinews and muscles, in that part of the body, have a main purpose of aiding forward movement. As such, they cannot apply a ton of pressure when the legs are forcibly separated. They are only strong enough for incidental separations, which dogs normally disengage from easily.

With enough force applied to the legs in an outward motion, thus moving the legs past the 30°- 40° barrier, you can either:

1) split the breast bone,

2) dislocate the legs,

3) break the legs,

4) maim the joints,

5) tear the deltoid, tricep, extensor, ulnar carpal, or deep pectoral muscle.

In all 5 scenarios, the dog is out of the fight. Unless he is the most stubborn bastard on he planet.

There are obviously better ways, in a normal situation, to deal with attacking dogs. I was trying to give options for when they attack without warning or provocation, such your situtation, when a surprise attack leaves you defenseless by normal tactics.

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I think that an Akita are the baddest dogs on earth.

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