Started By
Message
locked post

Oven died after self clean

Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:23 pm
Posted by Korkstand
Member since Nov 2003
29134 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:23 pm
I know, I know, never self clean.

So I got it out the wall and have determined that the top thermal fuse is done for (it's a double oven). It looks like this




But there is another part that is evidently also called a thermal fuse located behind the control panel, and it looks like this



I'm not getting continuity on it either. Nothing at all works on the oven, the display doesn't even light up (breaker is not tripped and I do have voltage coming into the oven). Should I go ahead and replace both of these parts, and if so do they have to be the exact part numbers, or are they just standard parts?
Posted by VolsOut4Harambe
Baw Land
Member since Sep 2017
14908 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:25 pm to
Just buy a new one baw
Posted by CelticDog
Member since Apr 2015
42867 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:27 pm to
quote:

and if so do they have to be the exact part numbers, or are they just standard parts?


start with company that made the oven. Website.
It may be easy to match parts.

Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13570 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:28 pm to
Well you have it out of the wall, and that’s the hard part. Replace them and see. I had an element go bad on me a few months back. Tried to replace it and lost the wires. Had to take it out of the wall and it was a piece of cake after that. My element wasn’t OEM but said compatible with GE and a few others. Works great.
Posted by Y.A. Tittle
Member since Sep 2003
111637 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:29 pm to
frick modern appliances. frick each and every one of them to hell.
Posted by soccerfüt
Location: A Series of Tubes
Member since May 2013
76146 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:30 pm to
quote:

Oven died after self clean

Germans



























What I mean is that the Germans have quite a history with Ovens.

If you have a German friend, ask him/her to help you.
This post was edited on 11/16/18 at 2:31 pm
Posted by Korkstand
Member since Nov 2003
29134 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:31 pm to
quote:

Well you have it out of the wall, and that’s the hard part.

It wasn't easy, but to me the hard part is figuring out the model number of the oven itself.
Posted by LSUGRAD2008
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2018
490 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:31 pm to
my kitchen aid wall oven did that. Repair guy told me that if they dont have proper ventilation that this will happen every time you self clean
Posted by Lsuhoohoo
Member since Sep 2007
102437 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:32 pm to
quote:

frick modern appliances. frick each and every one of them to hell.



My parents are still running a set of early 1980s Maytag washer and dryer. built like tanks and straight forward to fix.
Posted by soccerfüt
Location: A Series of Tubes
Member since May 2013
76146 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:35 pm to
I did not see that question coming.

I must admit that I do not have a final solution for it.
Posted by bbeck
Member since Dec 2011
15428 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:38 pm to
Call the manufacturer/company and talk to them
Posted by Korkstand
Member since Nov 2003
29134 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:38 pm to
quote:

start with company that made the oven.

I tried calling and I didn't get past the part where the automated system didn't recognize my phone number. I hate dealing with giant companies.
Posted by Captain Crown
Member since Jun 2011
57223 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:43 pm to
Damn
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13570 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:45 pm to
What brand is it?
Posted by Korkstand
Member since Nov 2003
29134 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:46 pm to
Kitchenaid
Posted by soccerfüt
Location: A Series of Tubes
Member since May 2013
76146 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:50 pm to
quote:

Kitchenaid

It's a boat anchor.
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30152 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:00 pm to
both are bad but most likely it was caused by a shorted out heating element that cracked in the self clean mode (essentially a full unregulated always on heating element condition).

test the heating elements on 10k ohm setting and you should see some resistance. if you find resistance below the 10k ohm setting then its bad

changing all 3 of these parts will be around $20 each for the fuse and limit switch, the heating element can be $50-$100 but its much better then spending $1k on a new oven

google the brand and model number and get the part numbers and then look them up on ebay, its not hard to repair this stuff and if you went this far then it sounds like you can handle it.

with all that said, the control board should still be lighting up so i think you have even more going on with it. if its the control board, they can be expensive, so before buying any parts, you need to get the control board working or find out why it isnt getting power to it

quote:

It wasn't easy, but to me the hard part is figuring out the model number of the oven itself.


the model/serial number plate is found behind the doors on the front. its riveted facing forward but they put them in different spots sometimes but its always there if you look around for it
This post was edited on 11/16/18 at 3:07 pm
Posted by Korkstand
Member since Nov 2003
29134 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:09 pm to
quote:

test the heating elements on 10k ohm setting and you should see some resistance. if you find resistance below the 10k ohm setting then its bad

I didn't think to test those, but I will next time I go back.
quote:

changing all 3 of these parts will be around $20 each for the fuse and limit switch

Are you calling the first pic a limit switch?
quote:

google the brand and model number and get the part numbers and then look them up on ebay

I couldn't figure out the model number, but I ordered both parts on Amazon. Fingers crossed they're close enough.
quote:

ts not hard to repair this stuff and if you went this far then it sounds like you can handle it

I do alright, though I am asking the OT for help..
Posted by Korkstand
Member since Nov 2003
29134 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:11 pm to
quote:

with all that said, the control board should still be lighting up so i think you have even more going on with it. if its the control board, they can be expensive, so before buying any parts, you need to get the control board working or find out why it isnt getting power to it 

I thought so too, but I did read and watch a YouTube video that said sometimes the panel doesn't work.
quote:

the model/serial number plate is found behind the doors on the front. its riveted facing forward but they put them in different spots sometimes but its always there if you look around for it

Thanks, I'll look a little harder.
Posted by GetmorewithLes
UK Basketball Fan
Member since Jan 2011
23380 posts
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:25 pm to
You can probably find the parts on Ebay or Amazon. Just match the numbers on the parts.

I once needed a dryer thermal fuse for a kenmore dryer and Sears wanted $40 for the part and $100 to install it. I paid $9.00 for 10 of them off of Amazon.
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram