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Message

Oven died after self clean
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:23 pm
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:23 pm
I know, I know, never self clean.
So I got it out the wall and have determined that the top thermal fuse is done for (it's a double oven). It looks like this
But there is another part that is evidently also called a thermal fuse located behind the control panel, and it looks like this
I'm not getting continuity on it either. Nothing at all works on the oven, the display doesn't even light up (breaker is not tripped and I do have voltage coming into the oven). Should I go ahead and replace both of these parts, and if so do they have to be the exact part numbers, or are they just standard parts?
So I got it out the wall and have determined that the top thermal fuse is done for (it's a double oven). It looks like this
But there is another part that is evidently also called a thermal fuse located behind the control panel, and it looks like this
I'm not getting continuity on it either. Nothing at all works on the oven, the display doesn't even light up (breaker is not tripped and I do have voltage coming into the oven). Should I go ahead and replace both of these parts, and if so do they have to be the exact part numbers, or are they just standard parts?
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:27 pm to Korkstand
quote:
and if so do they have to be the exact part numbers, or are they just standard parts?
start with company that made the oven. Website.
It may be easy to match parts.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:28 pm to Korkstand
Well you have it out of the wall, and that’s the hard part. Replace them and see. I had an element go bad on me a few months back. Tried to replace it and lost the wires. Had to take it out of the wall and it was a piece of cake after that. My element wasn’t OEM but said compatible with GE and a few others. Works great.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:29 pm to Korkstand
frick modern appliances. frick each and every one of them to hell.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:30 pm to Korkstand
quote:
Oven died after self clean
Germans
What I mean is that the Germans have quite a history with Ovens.
If you have a German friend, ask him/her to help you.
This post was edited on 11/16/18 at 2:31 pm
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:31 pm to TU Rob
quote:
Well you have it out of the wall, and that’s the hard part.
It wasn't easy, but to me the hard part is figuring out the model number of the oven itself.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:31 pm to Korkstand
my kitchen aid wall oven did that. Repair guy told me that if they dont have proper ventilation that this will happen every time you self clean
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:32 pm to Y.A. Tittle
quote:
frick modern appliances. frick each and every one of them to hell.
My parents are still running a set of early 1980s Maytag washer and dryer.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:35 pm to Korkstand
I did not see that question coming.
I must admit that I do not have a final solution for it.
I must admit that I do not have a final solution for it.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:38 pm to Korkstand
Call the manufacturer/company and talk to them
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:38 pm to CelticDog
quote:
start with company that made the oven.
I tried calling and I didn't get past the part where the automated system didn't recognize my phone number. I hate dealing with giant companies.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 2:50 pm to Korkstand
quote:
Kitchenaid
It's a boat anchor.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:00 pm to Korkstand
both are bad but most likely it was caused by a shorted out heating element that cracked in the self clean mode (essentially a full unregulated always on heating element condition).
test the heating elements on 10k ohm setting and you should see some resistance. if you find resistance below the 10k ohm setting then its bad
changing all 3 of these parts will be around $20 each for the fuse and limit switch, the heating element can be $50-$100 but its much better then spending $1k on a new oven
google the brand and model number and get the part numbers and then look them up on ebay, its not hard to repair this stuff and if you went this far then it sounds like you can handle it.
with all that said, the control board should still be lighting up so i think you have even more going on with it. if its the control board, they can be expensive, so before buying any parts, you need to get the control board working or find out why it isnt getting power to it
the model/serial number plate is found behind the doors on the front. its riveted facing forward but they put them in different spots sometimes but its always there if you look around for it
test the heating elements on 10k ohm setting and you should see some resistance. if you find resistance below the 10k ohm setting then its bad
changing all 3 of these parts will be around $20 each for the fuse and limit switch, the heating element can be $50-$100 but its much better then spending $1k on a new oven
google the brand and model number and get the part numbers and then look them up on ebay, its not hard to repair this stuff and if you went this far then it sounds like you can handle it.
with all that said, the control board should still be lighting up so i think you have even more going on with it. if its the control board, they can be expensive, so before buying any parts, you need to get the control board working or find out why it isnt getting power to it
quote:
It wasn't easy, but to me the hard part is figuring out the model number of the oven itself.
the model/serial number plate is found behind the doors on the front. its riveted facing forward but they put them in different spots sometimes but its always there if you look around for it
This post was edited on 11/16/18 at 3:07 pm
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:09 pm to keakar
quote:
test the heating elements on 10k ohm setting and you should see some resistance. if you find resistance below the 10k ohm setting then its bad
I didn't think to test those, but I will next time I go back.
quote:
changing all 3 of these parts will be around $20 each for the fuse and limit switch
Are you calling the first pic a limit switch?
quote:
google the brand and model number and get the part numbers and then look them up on ebay
I couldn't figure out the model number, but I ordered both parts on Amazon. Fingers crossed they're close enough.
quote:
ts not hard to repair this stuff and if you went this far then it sounds like you can handle it
I do alright, though I am asking the OT for help..
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:11 pm to keakar
quote:
with all that said, the control board should still be lighting up so i think you have even more going on with it. if its the control board, they can be expensive, so before buying any parts, you need to get the control board working or find out why it isnt getting power to it
I thought so too, but I did read and watch a YouTube video that said sometimes the panel doesn't work.
quote:
the model/serial number plate is found behind the doors on the front. its riveted facing forward but they put them in different spots sometimes but its always there if you look around for it
Thanks, I'll look a little harder.
Posted on 11/16/18 at 3:25 pm to Korkstand
You can probably find the parts on Ebay or Amazon. Just match the numbers on the parts.
I once needed a dryer thermal fuse for a kenmore dryer and Sears wanted $40 for the part and $100 to install it. I paid $9.00 for 10 of them off of Amazon.
I once needed a dryer thermal fuse for a kenmore dryer and Sears wanted $40 for the part and $100 to install it. I paid $9.00 for 10 of them off of Amazon.
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