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re: Car buying question...
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:01 pm to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:01 pm to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
The new Chevy Blazer is horrible.
0
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:09 pm to TSLG
quote:
Also, why does everyone focus on price and not value? Which would you prefer: Dealer 1, who uses quality brake pads, quality fluids, and whose employees have been taught to truly service the customer or Dealer 2, who uses Walmart oil, Amazon special parts, and lies about what he has added to the car? Dealer 2 can likely give you a better price, but you are the one paying for that better price.
When negotiating "new" vehicles, the majority of people don't care about "value." They care about price.
Why?
Because a new vehicle will have a warranty and that gives them peace of mind.
Value doesn't exist, in my opinion, with new vehicle sales, unless of course, someone is throwing in something extra that isn't normally included (3 free oil changes, complimentary wash and vacuum during service, loaner vehicle, etc. --- I recognize that this may happen at more luxury dealerships, but your typical Ford, Chevy, Dodge type of dealership does not usually offer these "value" services).
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:18 pm to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
The Edge has been around for a long time and is due for an update. In particular, the interior looks old and in need of a refresh.
I vote Blazer.
I vote Blazer.
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:24 pm to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
Plan ahead to fight the $250 doc fee after you agree to a price + TTL. I've never paid the doc fee, they always take it off the sale price when I get up to leave.
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:32 pm to Will Cover
Especially on a depreciating asset. The accounting 2001 course at LSU even teaches this, and to this day, I still remember how to incorporate that class into making sound, financial decisions, especially when it comes to leasing a new car. I’d never buy new, a lease in my situation, is the only logical way for me to get into a new car every 3 years.
When you calculate the residual value in front of the car salesman on a lease with factory numbers, straight from the manufacturer to include the ACTUAL money factor, predicated on your credit tier, it makes their head spin, when applying the right technique in front of their face. Also possessing access to Mannheim is always a plus for more ammunition.
Even present them with spreadsheet to make things clear and concise about the terms you dictate first, before threatening to walk away. The pants always come a flying off.
When you calculate the residual value in front of the car salesman on a lease with factory numbers, straight from the manufacturer to include the ACTUAL money factor, predicated on your credit tier, it makes their head spin, when applying the right technique in front of their face. Also possessing access to Mannheim is always a plus for more ammunition.
Even present them with spreadsheet to make things clear and concise about the terms you dictate first, before threatening to walk away. The pants always come a flying off.
This post was edited on 1/24/19 at 4:39 pm
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:45 pm to CobraCommander83
quote:
I didn’t even know that was an option to do.
Absolutely it is. Buy or lease at the end of the month and watch the dealership negotiate on the hold back percentage. The hold back percentage from the invoice cost can easily be researched on the make of the car your interested in purchasing or leasing. If there are multiple dealerships within a 250 mile radius from where you are at, the dealerships are in fear of losing a unit sale to one another, especially at the end of the month. Leverage that to your advantage.
Posted on 1/24/19 at 4:47 pm to EarlyCuyler3
1. Decide which car you want
2. Decide which features you want with it.
3. Send the specifications to 5 or 6 dealers
4. Take the low bid if it aligns with Edmunds.com, etc.
5. Buy car
2. Decide which features you want with it.
3. Send the specifications to 5 or 6 dealers
4. Take the low bid if it aligns with Edmunds.com, etc.
5. Buy car
Posted on 1/24/19 at 5:58 pm to Breauxsif
quote:Indeed. But borrow from the bank, not the dealership. Get pre approved before.
Do not negotiate on payment, whatever you do. Instead focus on negotiating the cost of the vehicle, whereas the math will take care of itself in the end.
Posted on 1/24/19 at 6:00 pm to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
Posted on 1/24/19 at 6:57 pm to Breauxsif
quote:
Absolutely it is.
That's a new one to me too, and I've been around this business since diapers. Do you just call the national 800 # and ask for the invoice department?
quote:
I've seen people say to not get the dealer to get your financing
I disagree with thsee statements. The manufacturers' dealers get AMAZING rates. They can likely stomp your local bank's rate. There is nothing wrong with checking with your bank, but I'd use this information to get a better deal. "My bank told me they'd do a new car at 3% for 75months. If you can beat it, I'll give you the financing to make up for this beating I want to put on you in the front."
Also, this guy's other post is spot on. You just have to do your research and have a plan. The bullshite games are only necessary for people that don't know how it works.
Posted on 1/24/19 at 7:03 pm to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
Get the explorer instead of the edge
Posted on 1/24/19 at 7:16 pm to Dupont3
Lots of dealers use local banks as well as national banks. If you have a account at one of these banks you will get some of the financing at a little better rate. I just go to a salesmen and tell him what kind of car/truck I want, with what kind of options, and here's how much I want my payments to be per month for how many years. They will find a way to accommodate me. Either give me more for my trade or knock off more on the new vehicle I'm buying. Lots of inside shite dealerships do to move a vehicle. They will him haul around but you would be surprised how close they will come to your monthly payment price. Just walk out if they can't meet your demands, if your demands are out of whack.
Posted on 1/24/19 at 7:19 pm to Tshiz
quote:
Buy a 4runner and call it a day.
Hell no. There is zero room in the back seat. It’s like riding in a damn clown car.
Posted on 1/25/19 at 1:53 pm to DCtiger1
Wow. Such an idiotic statement
Posted on 3/19/19 at 8:28 am to Breauxsif
Bump
Is getting the invoice cost only advantageous if buying a new car, or also for buying a car 1-2 years old? I'm looking at used vehicles a year or two old, and there's several used Tacomas at each of the Toyota dealerships around Denver.
A good buddy of mine is the New Car Sales Manager at one of them, but I haven't talked to him about my used midsize truck search yet.
quote:
Breauxsif
quote:
Perform your due diligence and call the factory to find the invoice cost of the model you wish to purchase and start your negotiation process there. Do not go in blindly, not knowing the invoice cost and instead attempt to negotiate off of the MSRP.
Is getting the invoice cost only advantageous if buying a new car, or also for buying a car 1-2 years old? I'm looking at used vehicles a year or two old, and there's several used Tacomas at each of the Toyota dealerships around Denver.
A good buddy of mine is the New Car Sales Manager at one of them, but I haven't talked to him about my used midsize truck search yet.
This post was edited on 3/19/19 at 8:43 am
Posted on 3/19/19 at 8:33 am to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
My suggestion, look for a vehicle that is 2yrs old, a clean car fax, and less than 15k miles. You will still get a relatively new car for thousands less.
Posted on 3/19/19 at 8:40 am to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
Someone mentioned the Summer. Do that.
Secondly, go the last day of the month. Salespeople are possibly a few units from getting an uptick in the front portion of their commission.
When I went in for my Lexus, I did the deal with the saleswoman I did another vehicle before that. She knew I knew the business (sold Toyotas after Katrina) and asked her if she needed one unit to get the next bump. She took a mini (my car) to get a shite ton more money.
Never take the first pass, hell never take the third pass. Always negotiate off the price and everything else will take care of itself.
THEY WILL TRY TO frick YOU OVER IN THE BACK ON POINTS. PLEASE KNOW YOUR CREDIT SCORE.
Secondly, go the last day of the month. Salespeople are possibly a few units from getting an uptick in the front portion of their commission.
When I went in for my Lexus, I did the deal with the saleswoman I did another vehicle before that. She knew I knew the business (sold Toyotas after Katrina) and asked her if she needed one unit to get the next bump. She took a mini (my car) to get a shite ton more money.
Never take the first pass, hell never take the third pass. Always negotiate off the price and everything else will take care of itself.
THEY WILL TRY TO frick YOU OVER IN THE BACK ON POINTS. PLEASE KNOW YOUR CREDIT SCORE.
Posted on 3/19/19 at 8:45 am to touchdownjeebus
Just bought a new used car this week. Three years old, 55,000 plus miles, clean as a whistle. Toyota. Bought extended warranty, paid cash for everything. Saved over three thousand on finance charges, which paid for the warranty. Paid less than 19000, included warranty, ttl, and sales tax. Was this a good deal?
Posted on 3/19/19 at 8:46 am to 50_Tiger
quote:
THEY WILL TRY TO frick YOU OVER IN THE BACK ON POINTS. PLEASE KNOW YOUR CREDIT SCORE.
I plan on securing financing at a low rate through a local credit union. My scores are right around 730, I'm good there.
This post was edited on 3/19/19 at 8:52 am
Posted on 3/19/19 at 9:54 am to Abikaasa_Posti_Teel
1 never give a payment...your approval may come in under your number and dealerships can add percentage points to interest rates with certain lenders
2 if a dealership uses a "4 square method" immediately leave.
3 Get financing out of house.
4 negotiate 1 item at a time. Cost then trade.
5 the most ruthless salesman are in finance keep in mind.
6 never finance TTL...why pay interest on that also?
7 Always be prepared to walk away and never negotiate until you have your keys from dealership back from trade appraisal. It is a tactic used as they think you will cave after time
Former sales MGR large NW arkansas dealership
2 if a dealership uses a "4 square method" immediately leave.
3 Get financing out of house.
4 negotiate 1 item at a time. Cost then trade.
5 the most ruthless salesman are in finance keep in mind.
6 never finance TTL...why pay interest on that also?
7 Always be prepared to walk away and never negotiate until you have your keys from dealership back from trade appraisal. It is a tactic used as they think you will cave after time
Former sales MGR large NW arkansas dealership
This post was edited on 3/19/19 at 9:56 am
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