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Started By
Message
re: Car Buying Experts Only.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 8:03 am to The Torch
Posted on 3/17/25 at 8:03 am to The Torch
Your question has to take into consideration the following:
Make/model (also helps determine dealer holdback, typically 3%)
Dealer add ons
Manufacturer incentives
Inventory on the dealers lot
No to service plans
Extended warranties: depends on situation/vehicle type (always ask to see their cost sheet, then negotiate down from there if you decide to purchase)
Make/model (also helps determine dealer holdback, typically 3%)
Dealer add ons
Manufacturer incentives
Inventory on the dealers lot
No to service plans
Extended warranties: depends on situation/vehicle type (always ask to see their cost sheet, then negotiate down from there if you decide to purchase)
Posted on 3/17/25 at 8:07 am to SallysHuman
quote:
If you have a 401k... I'd borrow against it to finance what you need for the cost
This is maybe the worst financial decision you can make
Posted on 3/17/25 at 8:11 am to The Torch
Walking out price depends on make, model, location, etc, etc. The automaker may or may not have incentives, vehicle inventory might be 30 days (good seller) or 145 days.
Service plan - do the math. Is it a good deal on basic maintenance req'd vs your average miles over the time period or not? Will you actually drag your butt to the dealer to actually use it? Most times the answer is no. For non-VW German cars, you probably should buy it. Another reason we need to know make, model, etc.
Extended warranty - For decades, I did support buying these, That changed in the early 2k's, but again is make/model dependent. On many makes, you can get an extended FACTORY warranty from a dealer online that will discount it as much as $2k off what your local guy wants to charge you for the SAME warranty. DO NOT BUY A 3RD PARTY WARRANTY! Most OEMS allow this, some (VW for one) do not allow discounts. Example: VW warranty on a Jetta GLi was $3k+ in recent years. Not a great gamble despite their often high service costs. OTOH, you can go online to Flood Ford or Sacucci (sp?) Honda and get factory extended warranties for ~$700. Well worth that deal!
Finance depends on your FICO. Always check local credit unions first for best rates, doesn't take hardly anything to be eligible for CU membership any more. Dealer can sometimes give you a better deal if you take their financing. You can often take their deal, then pay it off in full with a CU loan on the first payment, but OK THIS WITH THE CU FIRST - some will not allow this process. If you like the dealer, then pay it off on the 3rd payment so they don't get back charged.
Service plan - do the math. Is it a good deal on basic maintenance req'd vs your average miles over the time period or not? Will you actually drag your butt to the dealer to actually use it? Most times the answer is no. For non-VW German cars, you probably should buy it. Another reason we need to know make, model, etc.
Extended warranty - For decades, I did support buying these, That changed in the early 2k's, but again is make/model dependent. On many makes, you can get an extended FACTORY warranty from a dealer online that will discount it as much as $2k off what your local guy wants to charge you for the SAME warranty. DO NOT BUY A 3RD PARTY WARRANTY! Most OEMS allow this, some (VW for one) do not allow discounts. Example: VW warranty on a Jetta GLi was $3k+ in recent years. Not a great gamble despite their often high service costs. OTOH, you can go online to Flood Ford or Sacucci (sp?) Honda and get factory extended warranties for ~$700. Well worth that deal!
Finance depends on your FICO. Always check local credit unions first for best rates, doesn't take hardly anything to be eligible for CU membership any more. Dealer can sometimes give you a better deal if you take their financing. You can often take their deal, then pay it off in full with a CU loan on the first payment, but OK THIS WITH THE CU FIRST - some will not allow this process. If you like the dealer, then pay it off on the 3rd payment so they don't get back charged.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 8:14 am to The Torch
quote:
Extended Warranty ?
No, but a dependable vehicle, won’t need it. Unless you buy a bumper to bumper one, it’s basically worthless.
The last 4 vehicles I bought, I had to pay $525, for work on the A/C. Bought extended warranties would have wasted money.
quote:
Do you purchase the service plan ?
No
quote:
Texas has an Inventory Tax they try to pass on ?
You don’t have to buy in Texas.
My last three vehicles were bought in Louisiana, an I live in Tx. But I have friends and relatives that own dealerships.
This post was edited on 3/17/25 at 8:15 am
Posted on 3/17/25 at 9:31 am to mettematt9
quote:
Don’t discuss financing or not when negotiating price. Trade in either for that matter.
after you get the price in writing, if you then reveal you have a trade in, won't they just low ball you on the trade in?
Posted on 3/17/25 at 10:01 am to The Torch
So you ask a question asking for help. Get serious responses needing more information, then provide a non serious response? Get ripped off.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 11:15 am to The Torch
There is a dude on youtube that you pay a flat fee to. He finds and gets you the best deal possible that he can find. I think I am going to hire him next time i'm in the market and save myself the headache of dealing with car dealerships. Delivrd youtube channel
Posted on 3/17/25 at 11:41 am to Bunsbert Montcroff
Yea.
I don't understand the sense in not negotiating the entire deal in one piece. That's what they want to do (that whole 4 square thing), so let them do it. Either the sum of the deal is acceptable to you or it isnt. As long as you have the fortitude to walk out, I don't see the problem talking all the numbers at once. How they arrive at acceptable terms isn't relevant unless you are bringing a buyer for the trade-in vehicle (one of those in and out deals).
I think all the car buying negotiating bullshite is largely that, bullshite. It all boils down to you having the fortitude to say no when it isnt what you want.
I don't understand the sense in not negotiating the entire deal in one piece. That's what they want to do (that whole 4 square thing), so let them do it. Either the sum of the deal is acceptable to you or it isnt. As long as you have the fortitude to walk out, I don't see the problem talking all the numbers at once. How they arrive at acceptable terms isn't relevant unless you are bringing a buyer for the trade-in vehicle (one of those in and out deals).
I think all the car buying negotiating bullshite is largely that, bullshite. It all boils down to you having the fortitude to say no when it isnt what you want.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 11:46 am to The Torch
Wait until the inventory backs up and 0% financing comes back my wife did this with her Subaru.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 11:59 am to kywildcatfanone
quote:
then provide a non serious response?
OK Jackhole
We rode by yesterday and looked at F150's (while they were closed).
2 wheel drive STX
2025
Sticker 52K
There's about 15 of them on the lot all different colors
Posted on 3/17/25 at 11:59 am to Jack Bauers HnK
quote:
It’s not as simple as this, is it? Aren’t you forgoing the increase in value those funds might have experienced if they had stayed in the 401k?
Seems like it might be not that bad if the market is adjusting downward like this. Take your loan at the top, and pay it back in at a lower share price / lower basis. The consequences if the job is lost are pretty severe though.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:03 pm to SallysHuman
Messing with your retirement for a vehicle is an absolutely terrible idea in almost all cases.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:05 pm to The Torch
Walkout price = Wrong question.
Right questions:
What can you afford (living at or below your means)?
What are you willing to pay?
What is your best alternative?
Purchasing svc plan is pre buying their svcs. I have done this. Debatable if should have.
Extended warranty is something I never do. Cost / benefit never paid off IMO. Big profit center for them.
If possible, finance with plan to continue to pay yourself the note after the loan is paid off. If you can afford the note, then you can afford to pay yourself the note. Get ahead for the next vehicle you purchase to minimize or possible eliminate having to finance the next vehicle.
If you are not in a bind (ie, absolutely need a new vehicle), walk away for a few months. Don’t get caught up in the moment and take a bad decision.
Good luck!
Right questions:
What can you afford (living at or below your means)?
What are you willing to pay?
What is your best alternative?
Purchasing svc plan is pre buying their svcs. I have done this. Debatable if should have.
Extended warranty is something I never do. Cost / benefit never paid off IMO. Big profit center for them.
If possible, finance with plan to continue to pay yourself the note after the loan is paid off. If you can afford the note, then you can afford to pay yourself the note. Get ahead for the next vehicle you purchase to minimize or possible eliminate having to finance the next vehicle.
If you are not in a bind (ie, absolutely need a new vehicle), walk away for a few months. Don’t get caught up in the moment and take a bad decision.
Good luck!
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:08 pm to The Torch
That's literally the easiest vehicle to get a great deal on.
Lack of 4WD is a deal-breaker for most, be sure your husband is OK with that.
Lack of 4WD is a deal-breaker for most, be sure your husband is OK with that.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:09 pm to The Torch
quote:
OK Jackhole
This was on you, not us.
quote:
We rode by yesterday and looked at F150's (while they were closed).
2 wheel drive STX
2025
Sticker 52K
Was that hard? Should be no more than $40K. $52k plus around here are $12-15K off to start.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:13 pm to SallysHuman
quote:
If you have a 401k... I'd borrow against it to finance what you need for the cost.
Forgot a few important things:
Opportunity cost - you took $XX,XXX from your 401k and lost out on earning potential (capital gains and dividends and compounding effect) during the term. You are just paying yourself back w/interest that is in real terms less than what you borrowed as lost compounding potential. You may have foregone 10-12% return on 401k (for example) that is far more “expensive” than loan financing costs.
I think a better way is to borrow (loan) and payoff as quickly as possible and continue to pay yourself note after loan is paid off (if can afford note, can afford to pay yourself note). Build cash pile for next vehicle. Meanwhile, 401k earns you well more than loan costs you and cash pile built up does too!
This post was edited on 3/17/25 at 12:32 pm
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:13 pm to TDTOM
quote:
$52k seems high.
It is high. Thats $10K markup at least for a STX
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:14 pm to SallysHuman
quote:
why the downvotes?
Because it seems you are serious. That's horrible advise unless very unique circumstances.
Posted on 3/17/25 at 12:31 pm to Tortious
If you're financing a vehicle, I would always suggest purchasing the service contract(extended warranty), the cost of one repair usually covers the cost of the policy. I've had a ton of cash customer purchase them as well, they have seen the benefit of having one firsthand. People cover their vehicles with auto insurance in case of what might happen, that's the same mindset you should have when purchasing a service contract.
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