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Started By
Message
A/C outside unit raising cost
Posted on 8/20/16 at 10:17 pm
Posted on 8/20/16 at 10:17 pm
Saw on a news segment where they were chatting about added costs post-flooding that many people don't factor in. And one of them was having your outside unit raised up off the ground. They said it averages over $600 for a professional to do it. Anyone had it done and cost that dang much? I myself will need to get a new system installed sometime next year and was considering placing mine 2 feet off the ground.
9
Posted on 8/20/16 at 10:25 pm to moffettduck
Well to raise it you have to put it on something.
Posted on 8/20/16 at 10:31 pm to moffettduck
Wires and plumbing ain't free. Open up your purse and just pay the man
Posted on 8/20/16 at 10:48 pm to moffettduck
How are they supporting it once it's raised?
Posted on 8/20/16 at 10:51 pm to djangochained
I can't see them charging you an extra $600 if you're getting a whole system.
Posted on 8/20/16 at 11:18 pm to moffettduck
quote:
I myself will need to get a new system installed sometime next yea
the $600 must be for existing units to be raised. Those will most likely have to have freon pumped down, lines cut, re-brazed and a vac pulled on. Plus electrical may need a longer whip (power cord). If you are getting a whole new system and supply your own raised platform then it shouldn't cost any more. If they supply/build platform then I could see that being an extra $100-$200.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 12:28 am to djangochained
I probably will just put it on a mini-deck like structure as wood working is no problem as I build decks and storage buildings for like everyone I know. Will probably use four 4X4's and 2X6s and all should be good.
This post was edited on 8/21/16 at 12:30 am
Posted on 8/21/16 at 2:04 am to moffettduck
Most of that cost would be pumping down the refrigerant and recharging it especially if it's an r22 system then the refRigerant alone could cost upwards of 600 bucks.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 6:39 am to moffettduck
Why raise it? We got over 5' of water and we hosed off the unit, dried the wires and connectors with a hair dryer (all we had), and ours is working like a champ!
FYI: You might want to get a someone else to look at your unit. My sister neighbor flooded and had two guys come look at his unit both said it needed to be replaced. The guy my sister called to check theirs(which wasn't broke) asked if he could look at it for free. He did and found the issue. Just an electrical issue and fixed if for $150.00. Just an letting you know.
FYI: You might want to get a someone else to look at your unit. My sister neighbor flooded and had two guys come look at his unit both said it needed to be replaced. The guy my sister called to check theirs(which wasn't broke) asked if he could look at it for free. He did and found the issue. Just an electrical issue and fixed if for $150.00. Just an letting you know.
This post was edited on 8/21/16 at 6:49 am
Posted on 8/21/16 at 6:51 am to moffettduck
quote:
I probably will just put it on a mini-deck like structure as wood working is no problem as I build decks and storage buildings for like everyone I know. Will probably use four 4X4's and 2X6s and all should be good.
No no there. Concrete pad, cinder blocks filled with concrete and the another concrete pad placed on top. Reason, vibration.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 7:22 am to fishfighter
quote:
fishfighter
all do respect FF, I see no reason whatsoever a wooden pad wouldn't work. I've also actually never heard of vibration being an issue with pads.
Now if you were fricking with him then yes, the pad will need type 47 mix concrete and the rebar used should be post-tensioned stainless steel quarter hook. And definitely don't forget to have at least 3foot deep footings around entire base. In fact, a good rule of thumb is to have 1ft of footing for every tonnage of unit. 5ton=5ft deep footing.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 8:30 am to moffettduck
Our AC unit is 3+ feet off the ground on a metal table built for it and we just had whole house generator installed that is also on a metal table that is actually a little higher. City building code required generator height off ground. This in New Orleans. When you figure the cost of having the unit raised and compare to replacement (and consider how long it might take to get a new unit after a disaster), it is well worth it.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 9:48 am to fishfighter
re wood vs concrete, i'm sure concrete would be sturdier, but I know for a fact that 4x4s will work. our church has had some rather large compressor/condenser units mounted high on a wood deck for many years. Not ideal in my mind and it's not pretty, but it worked
Posted on 8/21/16 at 5:51 pm to fishfighter
yeah but the unit will be strapped down. I mean look at the beaches and river properties how all of them are elevated on a wooden platform.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 6:01 pm to Chuker
quote:
Now if you were fricking with him then yes, the pad will need type 47 mix concrete and the rebar used should be post-tensioned stainless steel quarter hook. And definitely don't forget to have at least 3foot deep footings around entire base. In fact, a good rule of thumb is to have 1ft of footing for every tonnage of unit. 5ton=5ft deep footing.
That was fun.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 6:07 pm to moffettduck
Just put it up on some steel (galvanized) dunnage.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 6:09 pm to moffettduck
quote:
yeah but the unit will be strapped down. I mean look at the beaches and river properties how all of them are elevated on a wooden platform.
A condensing unit has been on this platform built with 2" wood framing and deck boards for 27 years. Not strapped down and withstood a F3 tornado in 2013 that blew the tree top off in the photo. There were 50-75 trees blown down on the lot. Flood waters have gotten as high as 2-3' under the cypress siding.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 7:46 pm to Capital Cajun
quote:
Most of that cost would be pumping down the refrigerant and recharging it especially if it's an r22 system then the refRigerant alone could cost upwards of 600 bucks.
This comment shows the ignorance of this board. There is no need to "pump down" the system. You simply compress the refrigerant all into the condensor unit outside using the system compressor. I would explain how but no one here knows what the hell i'm talking about anyways so why bother. After that would be done then yes you would have to cut the suction and discharge lines, braze extensions, and install a new drier/filter after dry out with N2 and then vacuum the system. Also the cost of whatever "lift" that was built. All in all not cheap if done right. Very cheap for me because I know how to do it.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 8:13 pm to pochejp
quote:
This comment shows the ignorance of this board.
ur not so hot yourself. The compressor can only "pump down" the freon if the lines are short enough that the compressor can store it all. Long runs to the evaporator will require additional piddling. Also, most new systems don't have serviceable driers on them. Some do but more don't than do.
Nothing like someone talking shite when he himself is full of shite.
Posted on 8/21/16 at 8:27 pm to Chuker
quote:
ur not so hot yourself. The compressor can only "pump down" the freon if the lines are short enough that the compressor can store it all. Long runs to the evaporator will require additional piddling. Also, most new systems don't have serviceable driers on them. Some do but more don't than do.
I stand by my comment. Ignorance. Proof.
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