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Started By
Message
Refinancing again?
Posted on 7/22/21 at 1:36 pm
Posted on 7/22/21 at 1:36 pm
So I refinanced last year at 3.375% for 30 years. Today I can get 2.75% for 30 years. Using some calculator online seems to indicate that'd save 30k over the life of the loan with a break even point of 52 months. Is this generally where it would be advisable to refinance?
Posted on 7/22/21 at 1:40 pm to BeerMoney
Don't forget to factor in the closing costs when making your decision to refi or not.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 1:41 pm to BeerMoney
How long are you going to keep the mortgaged property?
Stuff happens and if you have to bail after a year or two, you'll feel dumb.
If you know that you'll be there forever (barring something extraordinary), then go for it.
Then after month 52 you'll have extra Beermoney.
Stuff happens and if you have to bail after a year or two, you'll feel dumb.
If you know that you'll be there forever (barring something extraordinary), then go for it.
Then after month 52 you'll have extra Beermoney.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 1:46 pm to BeerMoney
Refinancing over that little of a rate change is absolutely not worth it in my opinion. If this is your forever home then I would say possibly. Otherwise just make extra payments towards principal if you are worried about interest.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 1:50 pm to BeerMoney
quote:
Using some calculator online seems to indicate that'd save 30k over the life of the loan with a break even point of 52 months.
What went into this calculator?
Are you factoring in equity gained? What about payments, equal or unequal? What about the cost of refinancing (note to exclude cost of pre-paids/escrow)?
The primary factor on whether it’s a “good” decision or not is the cost of the Refi and the time you anticipate being in the house.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 2:00 pm to BeerMoney
Really about all I look at is how long will it take me to recoup my closing costs. If it's only a couple years then why not. That being said, if I was you I'd do the new loan for 20 years, that coupled with the lower rate is where you will save interest cost.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 2:35 pm to BeerMoney
Have you broken even from the last refi? I'm in a similar situation, but I'm sticking with 3.375 for this reason.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 3:41 pm to LSUGUMBO
That would be a sunk cost and irrelevant to the decision making process.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 3:48 pm to ConfusedHawgInMO
quote:
Really about all I look at is how long will it take me to recoup my closing costs. If it's only a couple years then why not.
Absolutely, you get more flexibility with a lower note and can get your money back in short time. It's a no brainer.
quote:
That being said, if I was you I'd do the new loan for 20 years, that coupled with the lower rate is where you will save interest cost.
Me personally, I don't understand this route. You are handcuffing yourself to a higher minimum payment in the long run. I think the flexibility of a much lower note and being able to add more to principal if you can is a much safer route in case shite happens.
30 year note at 1500 a month vs 20 year note at 1900 a month is a big difference in cash flow flexibility for a middle class family. If you get a nice raise, then hey, put an extra 400 a month towards your note. If you lose your job, then hey, it's only 1500 a month minimum to cover.
This post was edited on 7/22/21 at 3:54 pm
Posted on 7/22/21 at 4:13 pm to MrJimBeam
Thanks for all the responses everyone. Talked with a few lenders today and their thoughts generally matched what I’ve heard here. It’s not a slam dunk decision to refinance.
We do plan on being here for a long time. Young kids, elderly parents and it’s a great house. Minimum 5 years is way unless something insane happens. I may go for the lower note just because my life is stupid expensive right now with kids and their business. Been cutting down monthly costs everywhere I can.
We do plan on being here for a long time. Young kids, elderly parents and it’s a great house. Minimum 5 years is way unless something insane happens. I may go for the lower note just because my life is stupid expensive right now with kids and their business. Been cutting down monthly costs everywhere I can.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 4:30 pm to GumboPot
quote:
Don't forget to factor in the closing costs when making your decision to refi or not.
That’s what the 52 month break even point is. If they didn’t factor in closing costs, given a lower rate, the break even point is always zero month and it’s a no brainer.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 4:47 pm to BeerMoney
52 month breakeven seems ridiculously long (origination fee? Title?). Suppose that factors last year's refi + this year's refi loan costs.
For your comparison:
Just looking at "Loan costs" (eg, origination, title, credit report, flood zone cert, etc.) vs. monthly savings, my breakeven was 7 months.
My sister is in process now, moving from 30yr to 20yr, and her breakeven is 30 months (less monthly savings for term difference is reason for length of time to breakeven)
For your comparison:
Just looking at "Loan costs" (eg, origination, title, credit report, flood zone cert, etc.) vs. monthly savings, my breakeven was 7 months.
My sister is in process now, moving from 30yr to 20yr, and her breakeven is 30 months (less monthly savings for term difference is reason for length of time to breakeven)
Posted on 7/22/21 at 4:52 pm to MrJimBeam
quote:
That being said, if I was you I'd do the new loan for 20 years, that coupled with the lower rate is where you will save interest cost.
My thinking...
The interest rate difference between 30yr and 20yr is small
I like optionality of having 30yr lower note and can always make payments on a 20yr pace but have the option of lower note with 30yr. Versus locking myself into 20yr, where I lose this option, not interested.
Take 30yr...pay to 20yr, 30yr or other...give yourself optionality. It is worth the slight difference in interest rate.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 7:35 pm to Bermuda99
quote:
Refinancing over that little of a rate change is absolutely not worth it in my opinion. If this is your forever home then I would say possibly. Otherwise just make extra payments towards principal if you are worried about interest.
Wah?
Posted on 7/22/21 at 7:36 pm to LSUGUMBO
quote:
Have you broken even from the last refi? I'm in a similar situation, but I'm sticking with 3.375 for this reason.
It’s incredible how often this kind of sunk cost fallacy impacts otherwise prudent financial decisions.
Posted on 7/22/21 at 7:39 pm to slackster
quote:
It’s incredible how often this kind of sunk cost fallacy impacts otherwise prudent financial decisions.
Totally agree
And why finance should be taught with much more balance, financial math of course and psychology.
What the financial says do and what the person's decision making experience while doing it...may be world's apart.
Case in point, sunk cost fallacy
Posted on 7/23/21 at 7:22 am to BeerMoney
I have a software system that can show you how long you it would take to recoup any closing costs or any buy down points and a true picture of the amortization of the loan. Anyone who is over 4%, typically is saving a ton right now.
Posted on 7/23/21 at 7:45 am to BeerMoney
quote:
So I refinanced last year at 3.375% for 30 years. Today I can get 2.75% for 30 years. Using some calculator online seems to indicate that'd save 30k over the life of the loan with a break even point of 52 months. Is this generally where it would be advisable to refinance?
Too small a rate change IMO, break even takes forever. Unless you have zero doubt this is your home for over 5+ years it makes zero sense to do this. If there is any possibility you might move in next 5 years, it's a really bad idea.
When we went from a 30 year 4.25% to a 15 year 2.375% last year our breakeven was just 13 months for comparison.
This post was edited on 7/23/21 at 7:48 am
Posted on 7/23/21 at 9:26 am to MrJimBeam
quote:
Me personally, I don't understand this route. You are handcuffing yourself to a higher minimum payment in the long run. I think the flexibility of a much lower note and being able to add more to principal if you can is a much safer route in case shite happens.
30 year note at 1500 a month vs 20 year note at 1900 a month is a big difference in cash flow flexibility for a middle class family. If you get a nice raise, then hey, put an extra 400 a month towards your note. If you lose your job, then hey, it's only 1500 a month minimum to cover.
Yes assuming it won't put you in a bind.
Posted on 7/23/21 at 11:46 am to BeerMoney
Starting August 1st, the 50 bps hit on refinances will be removed. If you were quoted in the last 2 months, the rate is likely to be a lot lower on August 1st.
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