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Tips for floating drywall?
Posted on 6/9/25 at 8:14 am
Posted on 6/9/25 at 8:14 am
So built a wall for the first time this past weekend. Have about 50% of the drywall installed. The other side has stairs up against it so trying to get this all done before we have it carpeted next Friday.
For shaping the drywall to the stairs, I plan to use a large piece of cardboard and shape it to the stairs. Once it’s good and flush I will transfer that template to the drywall and cut it out. Hoping to have that done likely tomorrow.
Then comes the floating. Most videos I see of this people are hand sanding. Can I use an orbital sander? Or any kind of power sander? I understand floating drywall is one of the shitiest jobs, so trying to do what I can to make it easier.
For shaping the drywall to the stairs, I plan to use a large piece of cardboard and shape it to the stairs. Once it’s good and flush I will transfer that template to the drywall and cut it out. Hoping to have that done likely tomorrow.
Then comes the floating. Most videos I see of this people are hand sanding. Can I use an orbital sander? Or any kind of power sander? I understand floating drywall is one of the shitiest jobs, so trying to do what I can to make it easier.
9
Posted on 6/9/25 at 8:23 am to jlovel7
Use a sanding block or a large wet sponge.
Good luck. You'll need it.
Good luck. You'll need it.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 8:27 am to jlovel7
quote:Hire someone that's good at it.
Tips for floating drywall?
Posted on 6/9/25 at 8:44 am to jlovel7
A sander will take off the mud you applied. You have more control lightly hand sanding.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 9:16 am to Taxing Authority
Tips for floating drywall?Hire someone that's good at it.
Not an option!
Not an option!
Posted on 6/9/25 at 9:41 am to jlovel7
Drywall is kinda an art like painting. It takes quite a bit of practice. I’ve done a good bit of it with renovations, rental property and kid repairs, etc and sometimes I can get them damn good and other times I can’t.
One tip is to use your drywall knife to scrap it smooth the following day when it’s dry, before sanding. When you are new at drywall you’ll need to sand a lot which means a lot of mess and dust. This is mostly to knock off any ridges you made, which being knew you’ll have a lot. Orbital sander works great but it will be very dusty and quick. You risk removing too much too fast.
2nd tip is to mud out further than you think. If a pro video goes 4-6 inches then go out 6-10 inches. This leaves you more room to taper or blend it in.
Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube is really good and has a lot of great tutorials
One tip is to use your drywall knife to scrap it smooth the following day when it’s dry, before sanding. When you are new at drywall you’ll need to sand a lot which means a lot of mess and dust. This is mostly to knock off any ridges you made, which being knew you’ll have a lot. Orbital sander works great but it will be very dusty and quick. You risk removing too much too fast.
2nd tip is to mud out further than you think. If a pro video goes 4-6 inches then go out 6-10 inches. This leaves you more room to taper or blend it in.
Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube is really good and has a lot of great tutorials
This post was edited on 6/9/25 at 9:42 am
Posted on 6/9/25 at 10:00 am to baldona
quote:
Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube is really good and has a lot of great tutorials
Yep. I absolutely sucked at finishing drywall a few years back. Watched this guy’s content for tips and now I’m actually pretty damn decent at it, and can even do level 5 finishes. It really isn’t hard. I think the mistake most beginners make is using too much mud and not thinning it enough.
For sanding, get yourself a 9” round sander (much more forgiving than the rectangular ones) and a 3’ pole to attach it.
Mask off everything in the zone you’re working in because the dust will get EVERYWHERE, including the HVAC register, and you don’t want that shite in your ducts. I created a negative pressure zone, similar to what’s in the video (linked since the video won’t embed). Instead of the duct material he uses, I duct taped a couple contractor bags together, for the ducting. It worked really well. Make sure you use the fresh air hole.
YouTube LINK
Posted on 6/9/25 at 10:01 am to jlovel7
I did some re-taping of drywall that was bubbling at the seam of the ceiliing and wall(24yr old drywall). I watched this guys videos as a tutorial for drywall in general and I'm happy with the results compared to paying someone to do it(ceiling scrape popcorn ceiling, fix bubbly tape areas, and paint ceiling $12k quote).
Youtube Link - Video won't let me imbed
He has some other links on the video info that was also invaluable such as specifically taping.
The area where I initially began I can see the imperfections but the areas near the end of my project came out fantastic. So if you have an area that may need some drywall work not necessarily accessed to visitors you may want to use as practice.
Youtube Link - Video won't let me imbed
He has some other links on the video info that was also invaluable such as specifically taping.
The area where I initially began I can see the imperfections but the areas near the end of my project came out fantastic. So if you have an area that may need some drywall work not necessarily accessed to visitors you may want to use as practice.
This post was edited on 6/9/25 at 10:05 am
Posted on 6/9/25 at 10:21 am to Taxing Authority
quote:
Tips for floating drywall?
quote:
Hire someone that's good at it.
This is the way^^^^^^
quote:
Not an option!
Why is it not an option?
This post was edited on 6/9/25 at 10:22 am
Posted on 6/9/25 at 10:24 am to Major Dutch Schaefer
Do I have to mud areas that will be behind trim and molding?
Posted on 6/9/25 at 11:31 am to jlovel7
Don't use as much mud as you think you need. Most first timers apply way too much and that means more sanding, more dust to deal with, more mess in the house to clean up.
I would never use a typical palm sander since it will throw dust everywhere.
I prefer sanding poles and open mesh sandpaper that looks like window screen or simply use a damp sponge to not make as much mess.
As for floating areas behind trim, I will do that, especially where the wall meets the ceiling even if I'm putting up crown moulding that will hide the seam.
I would never use a typical palm sander since it will throw dust everywhere.
I prefer sanding poles and open mesh sandpaper that looks like window screen or simply use a damp sponge to not make as much mess.
As for floating areas behind trim, I will do that, especially where the wall meets the ceiling even if I'm putting up crown moulding that will hide the seam.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 12:18 pm to jlovel7
"Do I have to mud areas that will be behind trim and molding?"
No, but you'll have to finesse the mud to hit the trim properly.
No, but you'll have to finesse the mud to hit the trim properly.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 12:47 pm to ItzMe1972
The key is patience too. You can sand out many imperfections but like others have said it can make a mess.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 1:25 pm to jlovel7
Call up Jorge and them.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 1:36 pm to jlovel7
quote:
Tips for floating drywall?Hire someone that's good at it.
Not an option!
Bless your heart.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 2:28 pm to Trout Bandit
Only tip I have is - 6 inch knife, 10 inch knife, 12 inch knife (or sub a 14" for the 12"). One even thin pass with all three and let it fully dry in between. Don't keep going over trying to smooth it out, you will only make it worse. Any small voids will be filled with your next pass with the larger knife. You can knock any ridges down with the knife between passes, that will save you tons of grief.
Mix your own mud, the premixed shite in the box will leave you wanting to shoot yourself waiting for it to dry/picking bits of dried mud out the next day. Mixing your own will also let you adjust the consistency to what you find you are better working with. I know the package says x amount of water to x amount of mud, but a little extra water and a thinner mix works perfect for me.
By the time you finish the room you are doing, you will be pretty good at it. You will forget 100% of the things you figured out by the time you need to do it again for the next project.
Mix your own mud, the premixed shite in the box will leave you wanting to shoot yourself waiting for it to dry/picking bits of dried mud out the next day. Mixing your own will also let you adjust the consistency to what you find you are better working with. I know the package says x amount of water to x amount of mud, but a little extra water and a thinner mix works perfect for me.
By the time you finish the room you are doing, you will be pretty good at it. You will forget 100% of the things you figured out by the time you need to do it again for the next project.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 2:55 pm to td1
quote:
picking bits of dried mud out
Yes. Don’t try to work out of the box. Get a clean bucket with a lid and dump the mud in from the get-go and work out of that. Keep the lid closed.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 3:08 pm to td1
quote:
Only tip I have is - 6 inch knife, 10 inch knife, 12 inch knife (or sub a 14" for the 12"). One even thin pass with all three and let it fully dry in between. Don't keep going over trying to smooth it out, you will only make it worse. Any small voids will be filled with your next pass with the larger knife. You can knock any ridges down with the knife between passes, that will save you tons of grief. Mix your own mud, the premixed shite in the box will leave you wanting to shoot yourself waiting for it to dry/picking bits of dried mud out the next day. Mixing your own will also let you adjust the consistency to what you find you are better working with. I know the package says x amount of water to x amount of mud, but a little extra water and a thinner mix works perfect for me. By the time you finish the room you are doing, you will be pretty good at it. You will forget 100% of the things you figured out by the time you need to do it again for the next project.
This is the best advice. Thin coats. Progressively wider knife. If you do a good job putting it on, you can easily use a sponge instead of sanding to keep the mess down. Sanding is faster and messier. Sponge is slower and cleaner. Both work.
Posted on 6/9/25 at 8:30 pm to jlovel7
quote:
Tips for floating drywall?
Pay someone.
Really...pay someone.
Posted on 6/10/25 at 8:01 am to Major Dutch Schaefer
quote:
Not an option! Why is it not an option?
Because not all of us have unlimited money. Budget to hire someone to do it is around $100. If we can get someone to do about 600-800 square feet of drywall for that, I will call them.
This post was edited on 6/10/25 at 8:02 am
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