Started By
Message

staining advice

Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:21 pm
Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:21 pm
Hey all! My son asked me to build a cross for his upcoming wedding. I used cedar 4x4's, bleached them to remove the orange tint, have sanded with 150 grit and will be sanding with 220 grit tomorrow.

Any thoughts on whether a wood conditioner is needed prior to applying the stain? The internet seems mixed on this for cedar wood. I will be applying oil based Min-wax stain and then oil based satin polyurethane.

Picture of cross (Pre-bleaching)
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
20299 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:32 pm to
Wood conditioners usually help to even out staining but with cedar I don't know how much that would help. I usually practice on some leftover scraps of the same material too.
Posted by BasilFawlty
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Dec 2014
1386 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:59 pm to
Just about all soft-woods (pine, cedar, fir, spruce) benefit form a prestain conditioner of some sort to help even things out. I think your plan is good if the cross is for mostly interior use. I wouldn't leave it outdoors.
Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 2:04 pm to
Yes, interior. Thanks!
Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 2:08 pm to
quote:

I usually practice on some leftover scraps of the same material


Good advice. I did this with the stain and poly on a scrap and it looks decent. Just trying to save a few bucks before purchasing wood conditioner.
Posted by ItzMe1972
Member since Dec 2013
13049 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 2:55 pm to
"My son asked me to build a cross for his upcoming wedding."

Okay..................

----

You should be ok applying the stain directly.

You could probably use some stain and sealer designed for fences if you find the right color.
Posted by jmon
Loisiana
Member since Oct 2010
10478 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 3:31 pm to
if you sand it too fine the stain may not absorb as much as you'd like. Experiment with scrap wood first
Posted by 9rocket
Member since Sep 2020
1877 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 4:41 pm to
Conditioner then stain, wipe off with a rag if looks too dark.

First, level that crosspiece.

Good job, dad.
This post was edited on 9/28/26 at 4:43 pm
Posted by 2 Jugs
Saint Amant
Member since Feb 2018
2503 posts
Posted on 9/28/26 at 6:04 pm to


quote:

have sanded with 150 grit and will be sanding with 220 grit tomorrow.



I would not sand past 180 grit and would probably stop at 150. Going any further than that will inhibit the stain from soaking into the wood.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
20764 posts
Posted on 9/29/26 at 1:00 am to
My go-to for conditioning wood prior to staining is to mix 1 part clear shellac with 2 parts denatured alcohol and brush on a coat.

It dries real fast and can be sanded smooth to remove any raised grain in the wood. This allows the stain to go on more evenly on softer woods like pine and cypress.

Not sure how it would work on cedar since it is pretty uniform in color to begin with. If you go this route, do like already stated and use it on scrap pieces to test first.
Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 9/29/26 at 8:12 am to
Thanks all.

Sanded with 180 and now am now ready to stain. Still not sure about wood conditioner. What’s the worst that could happen if I applied it?

Appreciate the advice!
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
20764 posts
Posted on 9/29/26 at 8:24 am to
quote:

Sanded with 180 and now am now ready to stain. Still not sure about wood conditioner. What’s the worst that could happen if I applied it?




The stain will not be absorbed as readily if you use a conditioner. That is the reason it is used on softer woods like pine and cypress with definite grain patterns in the wood. Darker areas will become more pronounced if a conditioner is not used and leave a more blotchy appearance in the wood surface.

You likely won't have that issue with cedar since the grain pattern is pretty even.
Posted by jdavid1
Member since Jan 2014
2706 posts
Posted on 9/29/26 at 8:46 am to
I always condition the wood prior to stain. It's too easy and cheap to not do it right.
Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 9/29/26 at 9:12 am to
quote:

The stain will not be absorbed as readily if you use a conditioner.

You likely won't have that issue with cedar since the grain pattern is pretty even.


quote:

always condition the wood prior to stain. It's too easy and cheap to not do it right.


Case in point.
Posted by ChEgrad
Member since Nov 2012
4039 posts
Posted on 9/29/26 at 6:02 pm to
quote:

My go-to for conditioning wood prior to staining is to mix 1 part clear shellac with 2 parts denatured alcohol and brush on a coat


I just did this when I made a drawer out of cypress for my kitchen and needed to match the existing color. Conditioned with diluted amber shellac, stained with cherry stain, stained again, another coat of shellac to get a bit more amber and then one more coat of stain then polyurethane. Matched perfectly. The stain definitely needed a conditioner - was a bit blotchy on unconditioned wood.

As for cedar, I don’t know. Gel stains go on more uniformly on unconditioned wood than liquid stains and you can get away with skipping conditioning.
Posted by Cracker
in a box
Member since Nov 2009
19452 posts
Posted on 9/30/26 at 5:58 pm to
Skip the wood conditioner just spray it with water and some isopropyl 10-20% let it dry sand it again stain
Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 10/5/26 at 11:37 am to
Finished product. Thanks for everyone's input. I ended up not using wood conditioner due to Cedar being a softer wood. Used 2 coats of stain and 2 coats of satin poly. As a novice, I'm pretty happy with it. Ready to get the boy married off now!

Posted by Superstar243
Member since Oct 2026
2 posts
Posted on 10/7/26 at 12:04 pm to
I’d probably skip the wood conditioner. Cedar is pretty soft and can take stain unevenly, but since you’ve already bleached and sanded it, I’d just test the Minwax stain on a small hidden area first. If the color looks even, I’d go ahead without the conditioner. The satin polyurethane should give it a nice finish and really make the wood look good. The cross looks great so far
Posted by El Segundo Guy
1-866-DHS-2-ICE
Member since Aug 2014
11902 posts
Posted on 10/8/26 at 9:57 am to
Nice. One thing to note is that on softwoods like pine and cedar, I do not use traditional penetrating stains. I only use gel stains. Because softwoods can be very blotchy, even when using a preconditioner.

I really don't like when softwoods get blotchy with stain. Wood conditioner helps, but gel stain is more of like a paint. Wipe on, wipe off. It sits on top so it doesn't penetrate and turn blotchy.

Posted by muttenstein
Member since Oct 2012
3329 posts
Posted on 10/22/26 at 5:21 pm to
Closing the loop here even though no one gives a shat.

Wedding turned out great! (Dog's name is Tucker).

first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

Facebook•X•Instagram