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Started By
Message
staining advice
Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:21 pm
Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:21 pm
Hey all! My son asked me to build a cross for his upcoming wedding. I used cedar 4x4's, bleached them to remove the orange tint, have sanded with 150 grit and will be sanding with 220 grit tomorrow.
Any thoughts on whether a wood conditioner is needed prior to applying the stain? The internet seems mixed on this for cedar wood. I will be applying oil based Min-wax stain and then oil based satin polyurethane.
Picture of cross (Pre-bleaching)

Any thoughts on whether a wood conditioner is needed prior to applying the stain? The internet seems mixed on this for cedar wood. I will be applying oil based Min-wax stain and then oil based satin polyurethane.
Picture of cross (Pre-bleaching)

Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:32 pm to muttenstein
Wood conditioners usually help to even out staining but with cedar I don't know how much that would help. I usually practice on some leftover scraps of the same material too.
Posted on 9/28/26 at 1:59 pm to muttenstein
Just about all soft-woods (pine, cedar, fir, spruce) benefit form a prestain conditioner of some sort to help even things out. I think your plan is good if the cross is for mostly interior use. I wouldn't leave it outdoors.
Posted on 9/28/26 at 2:08 pm to Clames
quote:
I usually practice on some leftover scraps of the same material
Good advice. I did this with the stain and poly on a scrap and it looks decent. Just trying to save a few bucks before purchasing wood conditioner.
Posted on 9/28/26 at 2:55 pm to muttenstein
"My son asked me to build a cross for his upcoming wedding."
Okay..................
----
You should be ok applying the stain directly.
You could probably use some stain and sealer designed for fences if you find the right color.
Okay..................
----
You should be ok applying the stain directly.
You could probably use some stain and sealer designed for fences if you find the right color.
Posted on 9/28/26 at 3:31 pm to muttenstein
if you sand it too fine the stain may not absorb as much as you'd like. Experiment with scrap wood first
Posted on 9/28/26 at 4:41 pm to muttenstein
Conditioner then stain, wipe off with a rag if looks too dark.
First, level that crosspiece.
Good job, dad.
First, level that crosspiece.
Good job, dad.
This post was edited on 9/28/26 at 4:43 pm
Posted on 9/28/26 at 6:04 pm to muttenstein
quote:
have sanded with 150 grit and will be sanding with 220 grit tomorrow.
I would not sand past 180 grit and would probably stop at 150. Going any further than that will inhibit the stain from soaking into the wood.
Posted on 9/29/26 at 1:00 am to muttenstein
My go-to for conditioning wood prior to staining is to mix 1 part clear shellac with 2 parts denatured alcohol and brush on a coat.
It dries real fast and can be sanded smooth to remove any raised grain in the wood. This allows the stain to go on more evenly on softer woods like pine and cypress.
Not sure how it would work on cedar since it is pretty uniform in color to begin with. If you go this route, do like already stated and use it on scrap pieces to test first.
It dries real fast and can be sanded smooth to remove any raised grain in the wood. This allows the stain to go on more evenly on softer woods like pine and cypress.
Not sure how it would work on cedar since it is pretty uniform in color to begin with. If you go this route, do like already stated and use it on scrap pieces to test first.
Posted on 9/29/26 at 8:12 am to muttenstein
Thanks all.
Sanded with 180 and now am now ready to stain. Still not sure about wood conditioner. What’s the worst that could happen if I applied it?
Appreciate the advice!
Sanded with 180 and now am now ready to stain. Still not sure about wood conditioner. What’s the worst that could happen if I applied it?
Appreciate the advice!
Posted on 9/29/26 at 8:24 am to muttenstein
quote:
Sanded with 180 and now am now ready to stain. Still not sure about wood conditioner. What’s the worst that could happen if I applied it?
The stain will not be absorbed as readily if you use a conditioner. That is the reason it is used on softer woods like pine and cypress with definite grain patterns in the wood. Darker areas will become more pronounced if a conditioner is not used and leave a more blotchy appearance in the wood surface.
You likely won't have that issue with cedar since the grain pattern is pretty even.
Posted on 9/29/26 at 8:46 am to muttenstein
I always condition the wood prior to stain. It's too easy and cheap to not do it right.
Posted on 9/29/26 at 9:12 am to jdavid1
quote:
The stain will not be absorbed as readily if you use a conditioner.
You likely won't have that issue with cedar since the grain pattern is pretty even.
quote:
always condition the wood prior to stain. It's too easy and cheap to not do it right.
Case in point.
Posted on 9/29/26 at 6:02 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
My go-to for conditioning wood prior to staining is to mix 1 part clear shellac with 2 parts denatured alcohol and brush on a coat
I just did this when I made a drawer out of cypress for my kitchen and needed to match the existing color. Conditioned with diluted amber shellac, stained with cherry stain, stained again, another coat of shellac to get a bit more amber and then one more coat of stain then polyurethane. Matched perfectly. The stain definitely needed a conditioner - was a bit blotchy on unconditioned wood.
As for cedar, I don’t know. Gel stains go on more uniformly on unconditioned wood than liquid stains and you can get away with skipping conditioning.
Posted on 9/30/26 at 5:58 pm to muttenstein
Skip the wood conditioner just spray it with water and some isopropyl 10-20% let it dry sand it again stain
Posted on 10/5/26 at 11:37 am to muttenstein
Finished product. Thanks for everyone's input. I ended up not using wood conditioner due to Cedar being a softer wood. Used 2 coats of stain and 2 coats of satin poly. As a novice, I'm pretty happy with it. Ready to get the boy married off now!


Posted on 10/7/26 at 12:04 pm to muttenstein
I’d probably skip the wood conditioner. Cedar is pretty soft and can take stain unevenly, but since you’ve already bleached and sanded it, I’d just test the Minwax stain on a small hidden area first. If the color looks even, I’d go ahead without the conditioner. The satin polyurethane should give it a nice finish and really make the wood look good. The cross looks great so far
Posted on 10/8/26 at 9:57 am to muttenstein
Nice. One thing to note is that on softwoods like pine and cedar, I do not use traditional penetrating stains. I only use gel stains. Because softwoods can be very blotchy, even when using a preconditioner.
I really don't like when softwoods get blotchy with stain. Wood conditioner helps, but gel stain is more of like a paint. Wipe on, wipe off. It sits on top so it doesn't penetrate and turn blotchy.
I really don't like when softwoods get blotchy with stain. Wood conditioner helps, but gel stain is more of like a paint. Wipe on, wipe off. It sits on top so it doesn't penetrate and turn blotchy.
Posted on 10/22/26 at 5:21 pm to muttenstein
Closing the loop here even though no one gives a shat.
Wedding turned out great! (Dog's name is Tucker).

Wedding turned out great! (Dog's name is Tucker).


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