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Started By
Message
Shower door glass bumping into glass wall.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 6:13 am
Posted on 10/31/24 at 6:13 am
Apologies for starting another thread on same subject but I found some possible adjustment screws but not sure.
See the Phillips? I suppose that just keeps the glass in the hinges and I cannot loosen and push glass all the way to back.
But what are the hex screws in the side for?
Or do I need to use a shim from the bottom of the glass wall to lean it away from the door?
See the Phillips? I suppose that just keeps the glass in the hinges and I cannot loosen and push glass all the way to back.
But what are the hex screws in the side for?
Or do I need to use a shim from the bottom of the glass wall to lean it away from the door?
This post was edited on 10/31/24 at 6:25 am
7
Posted on 10/31/24 at 6:32 am to dstone12
My glass shower has a little plastic strip on the bottom that is kinda triangular with the bottom being flat and wide narrowing to a point as you look upwards.
The strip can slip when water drips into it and can cause the door to not clear the frame not closing properly. I simply use a rolled/folded towel to cushion the glass and tap the strip with a hammer to slide it back into place. One thing I would actually have a use for a rubber mallet maybe once a year.
Still under warranty? Get the installer back out! We had to get the plumber out under warranty because the sink drains had the wrong angle on the drain line that would have caused water to pool instead of running off. (they tilted up a few degrees rather than down) The garbage disposal would be a smelly cesspool without the water draining properly, fast.
The strip can slip when water drips into it and can cause the door to not clear the frame not closing properly. I simply use a rolled/folded towel to cushion the glass and tap the strip with a hammer to slide it back into place. One thing I would actually have a use for a rubber mallet maybe once a year.
Still under warranty? Get the installer back out! We had to get the plumber out under warranty because the sink drains had the wrong angle on the drain line that would have caused water to pool instead of running off. (they tilted up a few degrees rather than down) The garbage disposal would be a smelly cesspool without the water draining properly, fast.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 7:36 am to dstone12
I tried fixing mine for months. Had the whole family holding the glass while I readjusted the screws. No luck. Called the glass company, paid $100 and they fixed it. Replaced the rubber piece behind the clamps to give it a better grip. Plus they know what they are doing.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 9:19 am to ColdDuck
quote:
I tried fixing mine for months. Had the whole family holding the glass while I readjusted the screws. No luck. Called the glass company, paid $100 and they fixed it. Replaced the rubber piece behind the clamps to give it a better grip. Plus they know what they are doing.
same. had the EXACT issue and tried to DIY it but finally called the installers (luckily it was still under warranty) and yep, they spent like 2 hours, took the door completely off; replaced some rubber shims, recaulked it..and it was good to go.
glad i didn't frick around and end up dropping that heavy arse glass door on the tile floor.
CALL THE INSTALLER. The End. What seems like just a tiny adjustment is actually much more involved.
if bottomlandbrew joxies his name, i bet he can give you more info. he's the napoleon of glass.
eta, my shower glass enclosure is almost *IDENTICAL* to the OPs.
This post was edited on 10/31/24 at 9:22 am
Posted on 10/31/24 at 8:16 pm to dstone12
Agree with calling the installer….do it yourself and you run the risk of breaking the glass.
Posted on 11/1/24 at 3:56 am to Spankum
quote:
Agree with calling the installer….do it yourself and you run the risk of breaking the glass.
Also agree with this. Some things just aren't cost effective for the DIY type. Break the glass fooling with it and have it damage other stuff in the process could end up costing several hundred to repair and replace.
Posted on 11/1/24 at 7:24 am to dstone12
I’ve had to do the same. Frankly, the installers are not leaving enough of a gap often times when they are initially measured and installed. I had one that fit basically flush, under a 2mm gap which I think is ridiculous. No reason to leave a gap that small. So just slightly out of alignment and it rubbed with the other piece of glass. I was unable to fix it. Called the glass company and they were able to fix it, they really didn’t do anything different than what I was trying they just had more experience getting the micro adjustments right.
It’s my opinion that if the door gap is somewhere the water hits routinely and you can’t have a gap then it should have a rubber/ plastic piece of trim. Or the gap should be larger, 4-5 mm or more, to allow for a home owner to adjust it on their own.
It’s my opinion that if the door gap is somewhere the water hits routinely and you can’t have a gap then it should have a rubber/ plastic piece of trim. Or the gap should be larger, 4-5 mm or more, to allow for a home owner to adjust it on their own.
Posted on 11/1/24 at 2:01 pm to dstone12
Wood shims at bottom. Put more on the far side away from the hinges. Sightly loosen the screws holding glass in place (don’t remove) adjust glass, tighten.
May need to slightly loosen bottom hinges as well just go get more glass movements. Make sure glass doesn’t scrape wall on outside of hinges.
May need to slightly loosen bottom hinges as well just go get more glass movements. Make sure glass doesn’t scrape wall on outside of hinges.
Posted on 11/3/24 at 12:18 pm to dstone12
More than likely the rubber material that grips the glass has deteriorated to the point where the glass has slipped. At least one other poster said this and it is true. Had this happen on ours. Replaced and leveled and good as new. Hinges are really just clamps on the door.
Posted on 11/4/24 at 9:56 am to dstone12
First, get someone to help you. It's a much easier job with 2 people. Don't mess with those hex screws in the back of the hinge. Those are for the pins in the hinge. Bad things can happen if you mess with them and don't know what you're doing.
Pop the bottom sweep strip off. You get inside the shower and your partner on the outside. Take some angled wood shims and put them snugly under the door. Also place some between the door and non-hinge side panel. Take a #3 phillips tip on a hand screwdriver and loosen the screws on the hinge. Do not use an impact driver. It will strip those screws if you don't know what you're doing. This is where a partner comes in real handy. They're on there tight. It's going to take some muscle to loosen them. Your partner can help push back as you put your weight into it. It may make some weird noises as you loosen them. Take the top ones all the way out and remove the cover plate. Be ready for your partner to catch the outside part of the hinge. Keep the bottom ones slightly loose to keep the door in place.
Next, adjust the door as needed by pressing the wood shims in on the side. You ideally want 1/4" gap on both sides, but this is dependent on how the glass was made and if you have the room or not.
The black gaskets that come with those CRL hinges are shite. Absolute shite. We throw them out. Get some clear ones: LINK. When you're adjusting the shower, change them out for the black ones.
Pop the bottom sweep strip off. You get inside the shower and your partner on the outside. Take some angled wood shims and put them snugly under the door. Also place some between the door and non-hinge side panel. Take a #3 phillips tip on a hand screwdriver and loosen the screws on the hinge. Do not use an impact driver. It will strip those screws if you don't know what you're doing. This is where a partner comes in real handy. They're on there tight. It's going to take some muscle to loosen them. Your partner can help push back as you put your weight into it. It may make some weird noises as you loosen them. Take the top ones all the way out and remove the cover plate. Be ready for your partner to catch the outside part of the hinge. Keep the bottom ones slightly loose to keep the door in place.
Next, adjust the door as needed by pressing the wood shims in on the side. You ideally want 1/4" gap on both sides, but this is dependent on how the glass was made and if you have the room or not.
The black gaskets that come with those CRL hinges are shite. Absolute shite. We throw them out. Get some clear ones: LINK. When you're adjusting the shower, change them out for the black ones.
Posted on 11/4/24 at 4:02 pm to BottomlandBrew
you're going to want to listen to this guy
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