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Message
Planning for HVAC system and things I need to know
Posted on 6/7/26 at 9:31 am
Posted on 6/7/26 at 9:31 am
This is my list going into meeting with my HVAC contractor -- by no means is it comprehensive or 100 % correct --- which is why I am seeking advice. What else should I be mindful of?
[ ] HVAC contractor to provide Manual J, D, S.
[ ] Do NOT oversize unit, which will cause short cycling
[ ] Thermostat & C-wire:
[ ] C-wire required at all thermostats
[ ] HVAC Equipment Brand:
[ ] American Standard high-efficiency Platinum Series HVAC system with variable-speed technology
[ ] Two separate HVAC systems (zoned by wing)
[ ] Target highest practical SEER2 rating appropriate for our climate
[ ] Humidity Control:
[ ] Include Santa Fe whole-house dehumidifier
[ ] Integrate dehumidifier with HVAC system and fresh air strategy
[ ] Indoor Air Quality:
[ ] Include enhanced filtration and indoor air quality options
[ ] Evaluate fresh air ventilation and air purification systems compatible with American Standard equipment
[ ] Return air placement:
[ ] Evaluate returns in walls vs. ceilings (prefer higher on wall, about 10” inches from ceiling)
[ ] Confirm proper placement in each zone
[ ] Soft Starters
[ ] Micro-Air Easy Start – reduction up to 75 %, compatible with generators. Price is $300 to $380
or
[ ] Hyper Engineering / Eltwin SureStart – reduction up to 70 %, compatible with generators, price is $225 to $300
[ ] Supply vents:
[ ] Show supply vents in all rooms, walk-in closets and networking closet
[ ] Equipment locations:
[ ] Show air handler/furnace locations in attic/closets
[ ] Coordinate with webbed floor trusses for duct routing, easier routing of plumbing, and electrical systems while supporting longer spans
[ ] Garage:
[ ] Mini-split (Mitsubishi) to condition space
Right now, I am planning on all interior walls to be 2×6 for insulation/sound with Rockwool. I will air seal top plates and penetrations with acoustical caulk
and seal the bottom plate to block air, moisture, and pests.
Also, I plan to use a Zip System for sheathing, along with ROCKWOOL Comfortboard for continuous exterior insulation, and blown-in cellulose in the attic with radiant barrier boards.
Note, this is for a new build. Single story, 3407 sq. ft. living area in Ascension Parish.
[ ] HVAC contractor to provide Manual J, D, S.
[ ] Do NOT oversize unit, which will cause short cycling
[ ] Thermostat & C-wire:
[ ] C-wire required at all thermostats
[ ] HVAC Equipment Brand:
[ ] American Standard high-efficiency Platinum Series HVAC system with variable-speed technology
[ ] Two separate HVAC systems (zoned by wing)
[ ] Target highest practical SEER2 rating appropriate for our climate
[ ] Humidity Control:
[ ] Include Santa Fe whole-house dehumidifier
[ ] Integrate dehumidifier with HVAC system and fresh air strategy
[ ] Indoor Air Quality:
[ ] Include enhanced filtration and indoor air quality options
[ ] Evaluate fresh air ventilation and air purification systems compatible with American Standard equipment
[ ] Return air placement:
[ ] Evaluate returns in walls vs. ceilings (prefer higher on wall, about 10” inches from ceiling)
[ ] Confirm proper placement in each zone
[ ] Soft Starters
[ ] Micro-Air Easy Start – reduction up to 75 %, compatible with generators. Price is $300 to $380
or
[ ] Hyper Engineering / Eltwin SureStart – reduction up to 70 %, compatible with generators, price is $225 to $300
[ ] Supply vents:
[ ] Show supply vents in all rooms, walk-in closets and networking closet
[ ] Equipment locations:
[ ] Show air handler/furnace locations in attic/closets
[ ] Coordinate with webbed floor trusses for duct routing, easier routing of plumbing, and electrical systems while supporting longer spans
[ ] Garage:
[ ] Mini-split (Mitsubishi) to condition space
Right now, I am planning on all interior walls to be 2×6 for insulation/sound with Rockwool. I will air seal top plates and penetrations with acoustical caulk
and seal the bottom plate to block air, moisture, and pests.
Also, I plan to use a Zip System for sheathing, along with ROCKWOOL Comfortboard for continuous exterior insulation, and blown-in cellulose in the attic with radiant barrier boards.
Note, this is for a new build. Single story, 3407 sq. ft. living area in Ascension Parish.
This post was edited on 6/7/26 at 9:34 am
10
Posted on 6/7/26 at 10:02 am to Will Cover
Paging CrawDude
Posted on 6/7/26 at 10:33 am to Will Cover
Are you locked to that brand, American Standard?
Being brand-specific on your HVAC system may exclude some otherwise qualified installers.
Your residential contractor is gonna hate you, and you’ll get a high bid just for the hassle. Not saying it’s right, but you’ll have to be pretty selective and pay for it with these specifications.
Also don’t see anything about heating, gas vs electric vs heat pump. I’m assuming gas furnace, but just as part of that conversation.
Also seems pretty critical in this specification that your HVAC contractor closely coordinates with your insulation contractor. This is more important for foam, but seems you are detailing everything out for each.
Being brand-specific on your HVAC system may exclude some otherwise qualified installers.
Your residential contractor is gonna hate you, and you’ll get a high bid just for the hassle. Not saying it’s right, but you’ll have to be pretty selective and pay for it with these specifications.
Also don’t see anything about heating, gas vs electric vs heat pump. I’m assuming gas furnace, but just as part of that conversation.
Also seems pretty critical in this specification that your HVAC contractor closely coordinates with your insulation contractor. This is more important for foam, but seems you are detailing everything out for each.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 11:09 am to Will Cover
Variable speed gives you the ability to run on on a temperature point and a humidity point, it will run a low speeds to remove humidity even when the temp is in check
Posted on 6/7/26 at 11:27 am to Will Cover
That’s about as comprehensive's list of items as one can come up with, you’ll have the HVAC contractor’s head swimming…..lol. Not sure you’ll do all that, but worth discussing - you’ll certainly test the knowledge of your HVAC contractor. On the HVAC Talk - AOP (Ask our Professionals) forum that I follow, there are HVAC techs & HVAC company owners (former techs) a Manual J, S, D expert, and whole house dehumidifier expert that commonly discuss just about everything on your list on a routine basis so there are professionals out there that know all this stuff. The Baton Rouge area, I don’t know.
Once you have building plans-blue prints you can hire specialists around the country to do manual J, S and D for you. Email the prints and details to them. Really not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. But there should be locals that do this.
Only thing off the top my head is that you’ll should ask to have the HVAC systems commissioned (cooling and heating components which includes a combustion analysis if you have gas furnaces for heating), i.e., the HVAC systems are operating according manufacturers specifications upon completion of the installs.
Also, if these are variable speed inverter HVAC units that you are considering, sounds like it is, you will not need soft starts to start and run the units on a portable generators during power outages.
Assuming you are not including a whole house standby generator, have everything set up that you have a properly sized natural gas line near the main outside electrical panel-disconnect (near the electrical meters) where a standby generator would be located. Often times the natural meters and electrical service are on opposite sides of the house, like mine. Easy thing to do with a new build.
You have manual D (ductwork) on your list. Can’t over emphasize the importance of this as duct work sizing and location is every bit as important in home comfort as the cooling & heating equipment/install, and as I understand even more so with variable speed inverter HVAC equipment that operate at low speed/capacity for much of the year.
As I recall, duct leakage tests are required by code in Louisiana for new construction. But I don’t recall if blower door test (house envelope air leakage) is required but add that to your list to discuss with builder. It’s relevant to HVAC.
Once you have building plans-blue prints you can hire specialists around the country to do manual J, S and D for you. Email the prints and details to them. Really not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. But there should be locals that do this.
Only thing off the top my head is that you’ll should ask to have the HVAC systems commissioned (cooling and heating components which includes a combustion analysis if you have gas furnaces for heating), i.e., the HVAC systems are operating according manufacturers specifications upon completion of the installs.
Also, if these are variable speed inverter HVAC units that you are considering, sounds like it is, you will not need soft starts to start and run the units on a portable generators during power outages.
Assuming you are not including a whole house standby generator, have everything set up that you have a properly sized natural gas line near the main outside electrical panel-disconnect (near the electrical meters) where a standby generator would be located. Often times the natural meters and electrical service are on opposite sides of the house, like mine. Easy thing to do with a new build.
You have manual D (ductwork) on your list. Can’t over emphasize the importance of this as duct work sizing and location is every bit as important in home comfort as the cooling & heating equipment/install, and as I understand even more so with variable speed inverter HVAC equipment that operate at low speed/capacity for much of the year.
As I recall, duct leakage tests are required by code in Louisiana for new construction. But I don’t recall if blower door test (house envelope air leakage) is required but add that to your list to discuss with builder. It’s relevant to HVAC.
This post was edited on 6/7/26 at 12:30 pm
Posted on 6/7/26 at 5:11 pm to LSUtigerME
quote:
Are you locked to that brand, American Standard?
No. I could also choose either Rheem (and Ruud) from my HVAC contractor. I've read that American Standard is essentially Trane, and Ruud is essentially Rheem. Same parts --- one goes one way down the assembly line, and the other goes another way -- with different badging and colors.
quote:
Your residential contractor is gonna hate you, and you’ll get a high bid just for the hassle. Not saying it’s right, but you’ll have to be pretty selective and pay for it with these specifications.
Not likely, and hopefully not. There is a long-standing relationship in play here that is not your customary relationship.
quote:
Also don’t see anything about heating, gas vs electric vs heat pump. I’m assuming gas furnace, but just as part of that conversation.
Correct, gas furnace.
quote:
Also seems pretty critical in this specification that your HVAC contractor closely coordinates with your insulation contractor.
Agreed.
This post was edited on 6/7/26 at 5:37 pm
Posted on 6/7/26 at 5:13 pm to wickowick
quote:
Variable speed gives you the ability to run on on a temperature point and a humidity point, it will run a low speeds to remove humidity even when the temp is in check
Noted.
Are you suggesting then that a dehumidifier might not be necessary?
Posted on 6/7/26 at 5:31 pm to CrawDude
quote:
That’s about as comprehensive's list of items as one can come up with, you’ll have the HVAC contractor’s head swimming…..lol.
To me, this is such a critical component of one's home, especially in south Louisiana. quote:
Once you have building plans-blue prints you can hire specialists around the country to do manual J, S and D for you. Email the prints and details to them. Really not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. But there should be locals that do this.
I had no idea this information could be sent off electronically to those who specialize in this area. Makes sense. And this is something I will look into.
quote:
Also, if these are variable speed inverter HVAC units that you are considering, sounds like it is, you will not need soft starts to start and run the units on a portable generators during power outages.
I am looking at a whole-home generator (Kohler). I assume this applies here as well?
In general, I thought it was always a good suggestion, generator or no generator, to consider a soft-start. Is that not the case?
quote:
Assuming you are not including a whole house standby generator, have everything set up that you have a properly sized natural gas line near the main outside electrical panel-disconnect (near the electrical meters) where a standby generator would be located. Often times the natural meters and electrical service are on opposite sides of the house, like mine. Easy thing to do with a new build.
Agreed. I am planning to place the condensers on the shaded side of house (as much as possible), and I will have my generator located on the same side as electrical panel and gas line -- and by my condensors.
quote:
You have manual D (ductwork) on your list. Can’t over emphasize the importance of this as duct work sizing and location is every bit as important in home comfort as the cooling & heating equipment/install, and as I understand even more so with variable speed inverter HVAC equipment that operate at low speed/capacity for much of the year.
Agreed. The "supply" to cool/heat the house is just as important as the source.
quote:
As I recall, duct leakage tests are required by code in Louisiana for new construction.
I believe this is correct.
quote:
don’t recall if blower door test (house envelope air leakage) is required but add that to your list to discuss with builder. It’s relevant to HVAC.
I don't believe this is required by regulations, but this is something that I want and will do.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 5:33 pm to Will Cover
One glaring consideration missing from your list is the drain plumbing for the condensate, the catch pans, and auxiliary drain/shut-off setup.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 6:12 pm to Will Cover
quote:
I am looking at a whole-home generator (Kohler). I assume this applies here as well? In general, I thought it was always a good suggestion, generator or no generator, to consider a soft-start. Is that not the case?
Yes it applies. In essence, the electronics in a variable speed inverter HVAC condensing unit operate in same manner as a soft start - there is not a large temporary surge in “starting amps” required to start the variable speed inverter condensor’s DC compressor motor, as is required with a single stage condensor’s AC compressor motor.
Another thing you did not mention and probably have it covered, not HVAC related directly but important to it, install a whole house electrical surge protector to help protect the sensitive electronics of HVAC, and also all other appliances and electronics circuit boards. Voltage surges are real issue here particularly during hurricane season. Some HVAC companies require/insist a surge protector be installed on a variable speed inverter condensing unit to help protect the $1-2 K control board which runs that’s unit.
This post was edited on 6/7/26 at 6:26 pm
Posted on 6/7/26 at 6:34 pm to CrawDude
Have you looked into the new Bosch units?
Posted on 6/7/26 at 6:47 pm to Will Cover
For your 2x6 interior walls for sound you can use a 2x6 top and bottom plate then use 2x4 studs so each side of the wall has its own set of studs. Use 5/8 rock. For even better results sheath each side in plywood then rock or even double rock.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 7:07 pm to JusTrollin
quote:
For even better results sheath each side in plywood then rock or even double rock.
I'm actually planning to sheath each side in plywood as well. Will help with sound insulation --- and --- I will have blocking everywhere inside my walls.
This post was edited on 6/7/26 at 7:07 pm
Posted on 6/7/26 at 7:09 pm to CrawDude
quote:
In essence, the electronics in a variable speed inverter HVAC condensing unit operate in same manner as a soft start - there is not a large temporary surge in “starting amps” required to start the variable speed inverter condensor’s DC compressor motor, as is required with a single stage condensor’s AC compressor motor.
Thank you for the information. I did not know that a variable speed inverter essentially acts as a soft start.
quote:
Another thing you did not mention and probably have it covered, not HVAC related directly but important to it, install a whole house electrical surge protector to help protect the sensitive electronics of HVAC, and also all other appliances and electronics circuit boards. Voltage surges are real issue here particularly during hurricane season. Some HVAC companies require/insist a surge protector be installed on a variable speed inverter condensing unit to help protect the $1-2 K control board which runs that’s unit.
I actually have this on my list, and I will make sure to have it installed. Seems very minor in terms of cost versus the potential savings due to lightning strikes.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 8:46 pm to Will Cover
Do not use flex duct.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 8:47 pm to doubleb
quote:
Do not use flex duct.
What do you recommend?
Posted on 6/7/26 at 9:16 pm to doubleb
quote:
Do not use flex duct.
Mannnnn flex duct is soooooooooo easy though
I've seen it after 30+ years in south louisiana and not totally trashed yet. Its not the best, but it has a place.
Posted on 6/7/26 at 9:18 pm to Will Cover
quote:
did not know that a variable speed inverter essentially acts as a soft start.
Its not just that. An inverter system has the advantage of being continuously variable speed. Where a soft start just gives a ramp up to a fixed speed, an inverter gives a ramp up to any speed. Inverters are vastly more efficient because they can run at a vary wide range of speeds to suit the load. You basically cant oversize an inverter. They are awesomd
Posted on 6/8/26 at 4:05 am to Will Cover
The vari speed and the dehumidifier probably won't be necessary.
I did both and the humidity stays in check without the dehumidifier.
It creates another leak point, and if its installed by a couple of 20 year olds, chances are it won't be done the way you would do it yourself.
I did both and the humidity stays in check without the dehumidifier.
It creates another leak point, and if its installed by a couple of 20 year olds, chances are it won't be done the way you would do it yourself.
Posted on 6/8/26 at 5:43 am to Will Cover
A lot of unnecessary shite to break and tech will have to order because he doesn’t carry it on his truck. Go basic, you’ll be a lot happier.
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