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Posted on 4/17/26 at 4:06 pm to Tigerlaff
If my dragonfruit project ends up being successful itll be in spite of me, not because of me.
I've been hanging water bottles to get the main arms to drop so it takes up less space. I start with a quarter of a bottle and add more every few days. Added a little too much to this one.
I've been hanging water bottles to get the main arms to drop so it takes up less space. I start with a quarter of a bottle and add more every few days. Added a little too much to this one.
Posted on 4/17/26 at 5:46 pm to Loup
dragon fruit and avocados baw. 2 things I won't touch. But you will succeed. Just a minor setback. Planted another prosciutto unknown fig tree today. I have 2 in the ground. Best figs I've ever had. That should be the last new outdoor planting of the year.
Also had an excellent LSU Hollier fig today. This tree spent winter in the greenhouse so I have an early crop.
Lost the single lychee that my tiny tree set. I knew it was too good to be true this early on such a small tree.
Mexican cigar plant coming back from the freeze and blooming early.
This post was edited on 4/17/26 at 5:50 pm
Posted on 4/17/26 at 8:01 pm to Tigerlaff
I think the mango grove restoration is complete. Pickings are getting slim and price escalation is real.
Added Zill M-4 today. In a 25g pot; but, probably a very recently potted up 15g tree. Not worried; it’s from my local mango/nursery who got wiped out by the freeze. Happy to overspend if it helps get them back on their feet.
M-4 was my second choice to Little Gem for a late season mango. Turns out; the larger Little Gem trees are extremely difficult to find. Talked to a couple of people who said it’s because the jury of public opinion determined that M-4 is better. So I may be better off.
Anyhow; M-4 is a Zill developed tree that is a seedling of Keitt. Stays green in color with no color break even when ripe. Notes of coconut; some say more than Sugarloaf and rivaling Coconut Cream. It produces in August to September which will hopefully extend my harvest for a month or more. Supposedly stays compact; let’s hope so because I sandwiched it between a Super Julie and a Glenn.
This post was edited on 4/17/26 at 8:05 pm
Posted on 4/17/26 at 8:10 pm to wiltznucs
You only ever hear great things about M-4. It's even got a spreading kind of growth habit and I've seen people pull them off in pots. Low disease pressure too if I remember right. Only ate one last year but it was a coconut bomb and very sweet.
Posted on 4/17/26 at 8:51 pm to Tigerlaff
I’ve got 2 I got last summer. They are still pretty scrawny but doing well. I topped one of them because it was getting lanky
Posted on 4/18/26 at 12:50 pm to Neauxla
For anyone out there with pawpaws who is starting to worry about them waking up, 5 of my 6 woke up a month ago and have a bunch of leaves. My biggest one, Sunflower variety, has zero leaves and just started pushing flower buds out today. Just stay patient.
Posted on 4/18/26 at 9:45 pm to Tigerlaff
Any thoughts on the Spice-Zee Nectaplum?
A local-ish nursery just started carrying them and I’m definitely intrigued.
Really wish I could taste one first and see if anyone this far South has had success with them.
A local-ish nursery just started carrying them and I’m definitely intrigued.
Really wish I could taste one first and see if anyone this far South has had success with them.
Posted on 4/19/26 at 6:42 am to wiltznucs
45g cecilove mango with fruit.
Had to share this. First time I've seen this variety fruiting in a pot. This is exactly what I'm going for and why I have 2 of them.
Had to share this. First time I've seen this variety fruiting in a pot. This is exactly what I'm going for and why I have 2 of them.
Posted on 4/19/26 at 6:49 am to wiltznucs
Yes I have a lot of thoughts on spice zee. I have not harvested fruit yet but it does have fruit set after 1 year in the ground. The fruit is universally regarded as excellent by everyone though, so let me tell you about the other stuff.
This thing probably needs 200 chill hours. It is not as pest and fungus prone as a peach tree, but it's not far off. To keep the leaves intact and the fruit clean and viable, you will have to have a spray regimen. I spray this tree more than any other I own with fungicides and pesticides and have been able to keep the leaves about 90% clean. Very minor pest damage on the leaves. The largest fruit on the tree is about the size of a walnut and I can already see that it has been penetrated by a boring insect, likely a beetle or wasp. So that one is ruined. I did have to thin fruit as well. Vigorous grower. Does really well for me on a sandy raised mound. Gorgeous tree during the growing season and the definition of an edible ornamental.
Bottom line, do it if you're ready to work for it and will have the chill required. If you're going to just let it do its thing I would say hard pass. Absolutely not a set and forget type of tree. Definitely one where I would recommend a regular systemic fungicide like garden phos to stave off root disease.
This thing probably needs 200 chill hours. It is not as pest and fungus prone as a peach tree, but it's not far off. To keep the leaves intact and the fruit clean and viable, you will have to have a spray regimen. I spray this tree more than any other I own with fungicides and pesticides and have been able to keep the leaves about 90% clean. Very minor pest damage on the leaves. The largest fruit on the tree is about the size of a walnut and I can already see that it has been penetrated by a boring insect, likely a beetle or wasp. So that one is ruined. I did have to thin fruit as well. Vigorous grower. Does really well for me on a sandy raised mound. Gorgeous tree during the growing season and the definition of an edible ornamental.
Bottom line, do it if you're ready to work for it and will have the chill required. If you're going to just let it do its thing I would say hard pass. Absolutely not a set and forget type of tree. Definitely one where I would recommend a regular systemic fungicide like garden phos to stave off root disease.
This post was edited on 4/19/26 at 6:55 am
Posted on 4/19/26 at 9:32 am to Tigerlaff
quote:
Absolutely not a set and forget type of tree. Definitely one where I would recommend a regular systemic fungicide like garden phos to stave off root disease.
That’s enough to talk me out of it. 200 chill hours is probably something we get most years; but, the pest and fungus pressure here is really high. My peach trees have really struggled.
Posted on 4/19/26 at 2:52 pm to wiltznucs
Yeah it's not a "you might get pests" thing. It's a "you will get peach leaf curl, curculio beetles, thrips if you don't spray on time" thing.
This post was edited on 4/19/26 at 5:45 pm
Posted on 4/19/26 at 6:15 pm to Tigerlaff
I janked a couple fig cuttings today from Thomas Jefferson LOL. No idea what they are. If I can get them home alive I’ll try and sprout them
The gardens there are fantastic
The gardens there are fantastic
Posted on 4/19/26 at 8:25 pm to cgrand
Nice! Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Good Figs. TJ knew what was up and G Dub himself loved pawpaws.
Posted on 4/20/26 at 5:16 am to Tigerlaff
Not to derail too far from tropical.
I have a spice zee and several other deciduous fruit teees .peach,apple,pear..
Do you have any other that the SZ?
My trees are still young, just a year past bare root planting, but have some fruit. They struggled a bit last year, but looking much better overall.
What do you think needs to be sprayed and how often ?
Copper and BT? Oil?
Had a really bad scale infestation on my lime tree and some of my other citrus that I finally have gotten control of, but don’t want to let this year get away from me on the other things
I will say this is the part I personally struggle with is spraying and keeping up with what, and when ..as I’m sure most do!
I have a spice zee and several other deciduous fruit teees .peach,apple,pear..
Do you have any other that the SZ?
My trees are still young, just a year past bare root planting, but have some fruit. They struggled a bit last year, but looking much better overall.
What do you think needs to be sprayed and how often ?
Copper and BT? Oil?
Had a really bad scale infestation on my lime tree and some of my other citrus that I finally have gotten control of, but don’t want to let this year get away from me on the other things
I will say this is the part I personally struggle with is spraying and keeping up with what, and when ..as I’m sure most do!
Posted on 4/20/26 at 7:22 am to Tigerlaff
OK Tigerlaff. Been busy lately but got caught up on some of yalls posts last night. Yall are some busy bastards.
My Flamethrower is about to open the first spike since I got it. That spike completely grew since I bought the tree back in February. Yesterday, it started to open and this morning, Im seeing some red in there baw.
Cant wait to see it fully opened. I removed one frond since I bought it. That was a few weeks ago. It was dying off and was easy to just pull off. Other than that, it has been a fairly easy thing for me and remember that it, and all my other trees, got repotted about two weeks ago in the Gary mix. I only have one desert rose that is showing signs of transplant shock and I think it will be fine.
Lipstick update - I am seeing some pretty good growth with it. I am keeping it on my lanai which is obviously covered and watering very often. I also have a spray bottle of water on my counter and I spray it down at least once a day when I walk by. Just saturating all the limbs with water to give it some humidity. It has been very dry here but we are about to enter our rainy season. It has not been replanted in the Gary mix but I am thinking about doing so in a few weeks. Its in a 3 gallon and seems too big for it so I may just make the jump to a 10 gallon so I dont have to repot it anytime soon. What do you think about that?
As far as the fronds, it has not gotten ugly. Just bigger and seems to be happy with the weekly fertilizer applications. Im still being very cautious with it but once I repot it, I may move it closer to the edge of my lanai where it can get a tad more sun. We will see. I am also seeing a little bit of red on the shafts of the fronds starting to show up.
My Flamethrower is about to open the first spike since I got it. That spike completely grew since I bought the tree back in February. Yesterday, it started to open and this morning, Im seeing some red in there baw.
Cant wait to see it fully opened. I removed one frond since I bought it. That was a few weeks ago. It was dying off and was easy to just pull off. Other than that, it has been a fairly easy thing for me and remember that it, and all my other trees, got repotted about two weeks ago in the Gary mix. I only have one desert rose that is showing signs of transplant shock and I think it will be fine.
Lipstick update - I am seeing some pretty good growth with it. I am keeping it on my lanai which is obviously covered and watering very often. I also have a spray bottle of water on my counter and I spray it down at least once a day when I walk by. Just saturating all the limbs with water to give it some humidity. It has been very dry here but we are about to enter our rainy season. It has not been replanted in the Gary mix but I am thinking about doing so in a few weeks. Its in a 3 gallon and seems too big for it so I may just make the jump to a 10 gallon so I dont have to repot it anytime soon. What do you think about that?
As far as the fronds, it has not gotten ugly. Just bigger and seems to be happy with the weekly fertilizer applications. Im still being very cautious with it but once I repot it, I may move it closer to the edge of my lanai where it can get a tad more sun. We will see. I am also seeing a little bit of red on the shafts of the fronds starting to show up.
Posted on 4/20/26 at 11:02 am to DickTater
quote:
Do you have any other that the SZ?
What do you think needs to be sprayed and how often ?
Spice Zee is my only deciduous stone fruit tree. I avoid stone fruit for a reason. There is an an entire LSU Ag spray schedule for homeowner stone fruit. There is a separate one for commercial. Homeowner schedule is linked below.
LSU Ag Homeowner Peach & Plum Spray Schedule
As you can see, it's a real bitch.
The "quick" and dirty Tigerlaff method is as follows and mine looks great: 1) spray copper while dormant and before buds break a couple of times during the winter. Do it when it will be dry for a few days.
2) when buds begin appearing, spray copper every week if it rains or every 2 weeks if dry.
3) once buds have broken, spray Bonide Fruit Tree and Plant Guard every 2 weeks or more if it has been raining until new foliage is hardened off. Spray in the evening when pollinators are gone.This is both a fungal and insect control spray.
4) Once new foliage is hardened off and fruit set, watch it like a hawk, pray, and spray with the Bonide whenever you have the time. Insect control becomes more important than fungal control at this stage.
It's a vigorous tree, so make sure you prune well every year to keep it to a size you can spray/harvest.
I will also note that these trees absolutely HATE wet soil and will die as soon as possible if they stay waterlogged. This is even true on the Citation rootstock. We just stay so wet for so long here. I would plant it on a mound that is at least 1/3 sand. Mine is more like half sand with a bunch of mulch on top, but I have irrigation so it's easier for me to keep it watered. All the spraying in the world won't matter if you have root problems.
I am most definitely not a stone fruit expert, having only one. If you want that grade of advice use the LSU Ag guidance.
This post was edited on 4/20/26 at 11:26 am
Posted on 4/20/26 at 11:15 am to LanierSpots
quote:
It has not been replanted in the Gary mix but I am thinking about doing so in a few weeks. Its in a 3 gallon and seems too big for it so I may just make the jump to a 10 gallon so I dont have to repot it anytime soon. What do you think about that?
First, palms do great in pots that seem too small and there are lots of internet accounts of this one not liking to be repotted to a much bigger size. I did it anyway and only got minor fussing. Same rationale, I don't want to do this again for a long time.
Second, this is a palm that grows in the swamps of Malaysia and Thailand. Being wet is not a problem and is in fact required. I'm only saying this because it means that the very best attribute of Gary's, drainage, just isn't as important here. I find the best results with plants like that are to use a fast draining soil anyway and just keep clean water cycling through it. Mine's in Gary's and I make sure it stays hydrated. In the height of summer it's going in the shade. I do not think a potted lipstick would survive full on southern summer sun all day in Gary's mix unless you were watering at least daily or put it into a dish of water. If this is going to be something you won't have time for I might consider something with more moisture retention than Gary's, ideally more peat since it grows in peat swamps.
quote:
As far as the fronds, it has not gotten ugly.
Hopefully it's still pretty after the transplant. Fingers crossed!
This post was edited on 4/20/26 at 11:20 am
Posted on 4/20/26 at 11:16 am to Tigerlaff
I guess I've gotten lucky with my peach/plum trees
I do lose a lot to insects but the last two years the tree produced so heavily it didn't really bother me.
I do lose a lot to insects but the last two years the tree produced so heavily it didn't really bother me.
Posted on 4/20/26 at 11:18 am to Loup
quote:
I do lose a lot to insects but the last two years the tree produced so heavily it didn't really bother me.
Yes, they can be insanely productive. Just have to check for worms/larvae in the fruit.
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