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re: Louisiana Tropical Fruit Gardening - Experiences and Updates
Posted on 6/20/26 at 6:28 am to Tigerlaff
Posted on 6/20/26 at 6:28 am to Tigerlaff
Trimmed up my Pickering and got it staked a bit, it has good structure, but the younger branches haven’t lignified enough to hold the canopy upright. In that process my lone mango came off barely touching it. Guess it was time! Small but wasn’t expecting much this year.
DH pushing also, not as vigorous, I think it had some fungal issues early season, but looking better now.
Plan to push growth through this season then hopefully it gets to a good size.
I know mangos don’t need much nitrogen, but should I add anything other than osmoocote? 15 gal pots. How long can I keep these going, kind of hoped another year, or is that optimistic?

DH pushing also, not as vigorous, I think it had some fungal issues early season, but looking better now.
Plan to push growth through this season then hopefully it gets to a good size.
I know mangos don’t need much nitrogen, but should I add anything other than osmoocote? 15 gal pots. How long can I keep these going, kind of hoped another year, or is that optimistic?

Posted on 6/20/26 at 9:24 am to DickTater
quote:
Trimmed up my Pickering and got it staked a bit, it has good structure, but the younger branches haven’t lignified enough to hold the canopy upright. In that process my lone mango came off barely touching it. Guess it was time! Small but wasn’t expecting much this year.
Looks good. Plan is sound. It's all about building for now.
quote:
DH pushing also, not as vigorous, I think it had some fungal issues early season, but looking better now.
Plan to push growth through this season then hopefully it gets to a good size.
Also looking very good. Off to a great start.
quote:
I know mangos don’t need much nitrogen, but should I add anything other than osmoocote? 15 gal pots. How long can I keep these going, kind of hoped another year, or is that optimistic?
At this stage, osmocote alone is absolutely fine. The most beneficial thing you could do additionally right now would be foliar feeding. Mangos respond extremely well to it.
When you get to flowering, fruiting, harvesting, then your fertilizer regime will become more important. My general schedule looks like this:
Post-harvest (mid-summer): the one time I give extra nitrogen. You always prune immediately after the last mango comes off, then you want the N to build next year's fruiting branches. I use 8-2-12 granular slow release with micros and will give fish fertilizer at this time.
Fall: Stop fertilizing except for applying the first dose of langbeinite (slow release 0-0-22, also called K-Mag). This gets the tree ready to flower strongly when the cool weather arrives.
Winter: I usually do not have to feed at all during winter. Watering is also infrequent unless weather is hot. Flowering begins.
Spring: Flowering is in full effect. I give a maintenance dose of the 8-2-12 slow release. Not a lot, just a sprinkling to keep nutrients in the soil. We do not want to overstimulate with N. Once fruit begins to set I give another dose of K-Mag. No more N applications from this point forward until after harvest. I also apply gypsum to make sure the soil has plenty of calcium for proper fruit development.
Summer: Fruit are developing. Nothing except maybe more K-Mag if the fruit appear to be stalling. Water consistently during fruiting.
Year-round: foliar feeding. Do this every few weeks.
You've got at least another 2 years with those pots, maybe even 3. For right now I'd do exactly what you're doing just add a foliar feed. With easy varieties like Pickering you could also go total lazy mode and just do osmocote alone. But hell we're doing something pretty niche here. Don't see the sense in half assing it.
Such a fun process. Blows people's minds when they see a mango tree on your back porch.
This post was edited on 6/20/26 at 9:29 am
Posted on 6/20/26 at 11:25 am to Tigerlaff
Spotted this near a friend's driveway in the woods. I'm going to go get a cutting.


Posted on 6/20/26 at 11:29 am to Loup
maypop
I have tons, I can pot up a root (or ten) for you if you want. I had about 8 potted sprouts but I planted them all a few weeks ago
or if your neighbor is cool with it, feel around at the base and find a stem, then gently dig around it with a screwdriver until you unearth a root, then clip it off and clip off about 6” of the stem, pot it up and keep it watered then when you see new leaves, plant it
edit: here you go LOL

I have tons, I can pot up a root (or ten) for you if you want. I had about 8 potted sprouts but I planted them all a few weeks ago
or if your neighbor is cool with it, feel around at the base and find a stem, then gently dig around it with a screwdriver until you unearth a root, then clip it off and clip off about 6” of the stem, pot it up and keep it watered then when you see new leaves, plant it
edit: here you go LOL

This post was edited on 6/20/26 at 12:05 pm
Posted on 6/20/26 at 1:30 pm to Tigerlaff
Thanks for your thoughtful reply.
So with our weather we inevitably will get temps that likely stimulate flowering in fall. Is that when you’re allowing it to set fruit? Then holding on to the fruit all winter and spring? Or are you allowing BBs to form then picking off and only wanting it to hold the fruit in the spring flush ?
So with our weather we inevitably will get temps that likely stimulate flowering in fall. Is that when you’re allowing it to set fruit? Then holding on to the fruit all winter and spring? Or are you allowing BBs to form then picking off and only wanting it to hold the fruit in the spring flush ?
Posted on 6/20/26 at 4:32 pm to cgrand
Thanks
This is what I plan on doing. He let me get after a bunch of Chinese parasol trees with a chainsaw so digging some maypops won't be an issue!
quote:
or if your neighbor is cool with it, feel around at the base and find a stem, then gently dig around it with a screwdriver until you unearth a root, then clip it off and clip off about 6” of the stem, pot it up and keep it watered then when you see new leaves, plant it
edit: here you go LOL
This is what I plan on doing. He let me get after a bunch of Chinese parasol trees with a chainsaw so digging some maypops won't be an issue!
Posted on 6/20/26 at 6:20 pm to DickTater
Very welcome my man!
This is very much dependent on your variety and your cold protection setup. Some varieties are very reluctant to re-flower or tend to re-flower with mostly male flowers. If this is your case, I'd allow any fruit set you get and try to keep it.
Mangos can drop flowers/fruit with sustained exposure to the low 40s. If your greenhouse can keep this exposure to a minimum, I would let it hold. If you cannot keep it warm enough I would pick off the fruit when BB sized or just let them drop and then wait for a cool spell closer to spring to induce re-flowering.
You can also spray the tree with gibberellic acid, which will prevent flowering and stimulate only vegetative growth. You have to be very sure about dosage and application times. You could very easily inhibit flowering until the weather is no longer cold enough to trigger it. I have never done this, but California growers are having good success with it.
I let mine hold and set as early as possible since my greenhouse never sees 40F.
quote:
So with our weather we inevitably will get temps that likely stimulate flowering in fall. Is that when you’re allowing it to set fruit? Then holding on to the fruit all winter and spring? Or are you allowing BBs to form then picking off and only wanting it to hold the fruit in the spring flush ?
This is very much dependent on your variety and your cold protection setup. Some varieties are very reluctant to re-flower or tend to re-flower with mostly male flowers. If this is your case, I'd allow any fruit set you get and try to keep it.
Mangos can drop flowers/fruit with sustained exposure to the low 40s. If your greenhouse can keep this exposure to a minimum, I would let it hold. If you cannot keep it warm enough I would pick off the fruit when BB sized or just let them drop and then wait for a cool spell closer to spring to induce re-flowering.
You can also spray the tree with gibberellic acid, which will prevent flowering and stimulate only vegetative growth. You have to be very sure about dosage and application times. You could very easily inhibit flowering until the weather is no longer cold enough to trigger it. I have never done this, but California growers are having good success with it.
I let mine hold and set as early as possible since my greenhouse never sees 40F.
This post was edited on 6/20/26 at 6:21 pm
Posted on 6/21/26 at 4:26 pm to Tigerlaff
Busy day yesterday. I received scions from Marta at Really Good Plants on Friday. Every single one was excellent quality. I started rooting the following mulberry cuttings - black prince, chicken claw, tice, and maple leaf. About 2 months ago I rooted 12 red mulberry cuttings I collected from trees in my yard. I grafted all of those yesterday with DMOR9 and Australian green. Attempted 1 cleft, 1 veneer, 1 chip bud, and the rest were all T buds. I also stuck a few T buds on my older in-ground red mulberry trees. This morning I grafted a potted loquat seedling with argelino and big Jim white - 1 cleft and 2 veneer grafts. Last week I started rooting about 15 various fig cuttings. My rooting Tupperware is chock full of fig-pop method figs and mulberries now. Hopefully I’ll be posting successful pictures in the next several weeks so that we can document graft method/time of year success or failure rates.
Posted on 6/21/26 at 4:47 pm to Tigerlaff
Do you shoot for a certain number of branches? It looks like I'm going to have 5 or 6 coming off.
Since the goal with cutting just below a growth ring when force branching is to have all the branches come from different points, should I cut two of those three coming out of the lower growth ring?
Since the goal with cutting just below a growth ring when force branching is to have all the branches come from different points, should I cut two of those three coming out of the lower growth ring?
Posted on 6/21/26 at 5:29 pm to Loup
You want between 3-4 main origin points from the trunk. Then tip every 12-18 inches of every branch thereafter.
I think I'm about to have to do what you did. My above the ring cecilove cut produced 2 branches. If I don't see new budding soon I'm sacrificing it all and starting over.
ETA: these plants don't think I would do it. This isn't 2020. Not my precious angels anymore. Work or die.
I think I'm about to have to do what you did. My above the ring cecilove cut produced 2 branches. If I don't see new budding soon I'm sacrificing it all and starting over.
ETA: these plants don't think I would do it. This isn't 2020. Not my precious angels anymore. Work or die.
This post was edited on 6/21/26 at 5:37 pm
Posted on 6/21/26 at 5:43 pm to Tigerlaff
In other news, first ripe Pickering came off the tree today. It needs a few days on the counter.


Posted on 6/21/26 at 5:54 pm to Tigerlaff
quote:
In other news, first ripe Pickering came off the tree today. It needs a few days on the counter.
How many did you let the the tree set? Thats a big one!
Posted on 6/21/26 at 7:20 pm to Loup
Set 12 fruit. The first 2 were jelly seed. The last one was 25% jelly but the rest was the most amazing coconut bomb I've ever had. We'll see how the rest goes.
Posted on 6/22/26 at 8:31 am to Tigerlaff
So when you’re talking about the cecilove and getting it to have good structure, it put out 2 shoots. You want 3-4 in opposing direction, would you just cut those new growth all the way back to growth whorl and hope it pushes again how you want it ?
If I cut mango mid stem, between the growth rings, will it push out from there new multi stems or is that only at growth rings?
Also, I have a Pickering budwood stick (just pruned, in fridge) available for free if anyone is nearby. Geismar
If I cut mango mid stem, between the growth rings, will it push out from there new multi stems or is that only at growth rings?
Also, I have a Pickering budwood stick (just pruned, in fridge) available for free if anyone is nearby. Geismar
Posted on 6/22/26 at 8:32 am to Tigerlaff
This one had internal breakdown too. I think this is heat injury. All the jelly parts are where the sun was hitting the skin and it's been mid-90s for the past couple of weeks. Should not be calcium related since I supplement.
May move the tree into the shade for the afternoons and see if that helps.
The normal parts of the mango were amazing. Super sweet, strong coconut flavor.
May move the tree into the shade for the afternoons and see if that helps.
The normal parts of the mango were amazing. Super sweet, strong coconut flavor.
Posted on 6/22/26 at 8:34 am to DickTater
quote:
So when you’re talking about the cecilove and getting it to have good structure, it put out 2 shoots. You want 3-4 in opposing direction, would you just cut those new growth all the way back to growth whorl and hope it pushes again how you want it ?
I'd probably cut below that whorl to the one further down.
quote:
If I cut mango mid stem, between the growth rings, will it push out from there new multi stems or is that only at growth rings?
If there are leaves above the uppermost remaining whorl, it will push from there. If not, it will likely push from the whorl.
Posted on 6/22/26 at 10:22 am to Tigerlaff
quote:
This one had internal breakdown too.
That’s disappointing. My Pickering have just started doing color break in the last week. With Pickering I really try to let them fully ripen on the tree. Like yours I’m not seeing as much red blush as I’ve seen in years past.
Posted on 6/22/26 at 11:50 am to Tigerlaff
Air layering is a great way to propagate multiple types of trees during the growing season. Here is a fig air layer that I cut and potted this morning, about 6-7 weeks after starting it. I also have a couple loquat air layers going right now - little slower than figs though. Mulberries are also easy to air layer.
Posted on 6/22/26 at 12:50 pm to AyyyBaw
Nice result. Very healthy. What varieties of figs and loquats are you cloning?
Posted on 6/22/26 at 2:30 pm to Tigerlaff
Most of my layers this morning were Celeste, Scott’s black and yellow, Improved Celeste, Galbun, and LSU Tiger. I put a single Malta Black air layer in a pot this morning for you if you’d still like it this fall. Have a few other established trees in pots that I’ll be planting in-ground this fall - St Gabriel, black Celeste, CDD Mutante, Violet Sepor, Sal’s El and Col Littmans Black Cross. We acquired an extra 1.5 acres adjacent to our home and I’m planning a permaculture style garden there, so I’m in big time propagation mode. I already have the ridges and swales marked - it’s really ideal with slight swales throughout the property. I should be able to plant 6 pecans, about 30 figs, 3 loquats, and about 10-15 mulberries in the fall. I’ll fill in the rest with persimmon, jujubee, mayhaw, and pawpaw. Might eventually add some citrus if a suitable microclimate develops after these initial trees get established. I’m filling in the rear swale (and largest drainage) with LA irises this summer and seeding a 5,000 sq ft native prairie adjacent to that drainage this fall. Planning to document the whole process, but it just looks like unmowed strips on the ridges right now. I’ll kill that tall grass this fall where it stands and then cover the dead vegetation with thick hay to plant directly into. I do plan to try some zone pushing in there eventually, but initially I’m going with very low maintenance options.
Edit - the loquat air layers are just a seedling that hasn’t fruited yet. I’ll use those for rootstock this fall.
Edit - the loquat air layers are just a seedling that hasn’t fruited yet. I’ll use those for rootstock this fall.
This post was edited on 6/22/26 at 2:32 pm
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