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Killing Lawn Burweed
Posted on 10/14/26 at 10:01 am
Posted on 10/14/26 at 10:01 am
Last spring I had horrible stickers in my yard. I read on here to apply in October. I was using Chat GPT and it said to use something with “Isoxaben”. Problems are I have about 17k sq feet in back yard and 20k sq feet in front that I want to cover. Rain isn’t expected anytime soon and that’s a lot of watering in. What should I buy and how should I apply?
I live in ascension parish and I believe my grass type is Bahia
I live in ascension parish and I believe my grass type is Bahia
This post was edited on 10/14/26 at 10:03 am
Posted on 10/14/26 at 10:57 am to Tiger328
You can buy isoxaben in granules which you mix in a pump sprayer with water. Then you spray the water on the grass.
Either that or find a granular product with isoxaben that you spread in the yard and water it in.
There's no other way around it.
Either that or find a granular product with isoxaben that you spread in the yard and water it in.
There's no other way around it.
Posted on 10/14/26 at 11:04 am to Tiger328
I would not choose IsoX.
I would lean towards Prodiamine or Dimension (cant remember the active ingredient but its Diox something). This is your pre-emergent application.
Would wait for a good rain before applying so you dont have to water that much, but get it down when soil temps reach 70 degrees. Right now we are at 78 in South Louisiana so probably early Nov.
Then hit it with Atrazine late winter/early spring or first sign to stickers.
I would lean towards Prodiamine or Dimension (cant remember the active ingredient but its Diox something). This is your pre-emergent application.
Would wait for a good rain before applying so you dont have to water that much, but get it down when soil temps reach 70 degrees. Right now we are at 78 in South Louisiana so probably early Nov.
Then hit it with Atrazine late winter/early spring or first sign to stickers.
Posted on 10/14/26 at 11:09 am to Tiger328
Lawn burweed seeds germinate at a soil temperature of 70 F or less, and we are not there yet. You can purchase a soil thermometer for less than $20 from Amazon, and/or use this soil temperature prediction website GreenCast , to monitor.
So you still have some time before pre-emergent application is required, as you are specifically targeting lawn burweed. But any pre-emergent herbicide will need to be watered in by rainfall or sprinklers to be activated - no getting around that.
Most of the university based literature does recommend Isoxaben (active ingredient) as the most effective pre-emergent herbicide for lawn burweed but the Miss State University literature also states the pre-emergent herbicide dithiopyr (Dimension) provides excellent lawn burweed control, which given the size of your lawn, would likely be a cheaper alternative. Either can be used on all the warm season turf grasses, including bahiagrass. How do you apply? Well, if you use a granular product a rotary spreader of some type, if liquid, a pressurized tank sprayer. That’s a lot of lawn to cover…..
For any seeds that germinate you can spray young (immature) with an appropriate post-emergent herbicide, between Dec-Feb - it must be done before the weed matures and stickers (seeds) are formed.
So you still have some time before pre-emergent application is required, as you are specifically targeting lawn burweed. But any pre-emergent herbicide will need to be watered in by rainfall or sprinklers to be activated - no getting around that.
Most of the university based literature does recommend Isoxaben (active ingredient) as the most effective pre-emergent herbicide for lawn burweed but the Miss State University literature also states the pre-emergent herbicide dithiopyr (Dimension) provides excellent lawn burweed control, which given the size of your lawn, would likely be a cheaper alternative. Either can be used on all the warm season turf grasses, including bahiagrass. How do you apply? Well, if you use a granular product a rotary spreader of some type, if liquid, a pressurized tank sprayer. That’s a lot of lawn to cover…..
For any seeds that germinate you can spray young (immature) with an appropriate post-emergent herbicide, between Dec-Feb - it must be done before the weed matures and stickers (seeds) are formed.
Posted on 10/14/26 at 11:20 am to LOL
quote:This worked for me last year. None to be found anywhere in the application area.
Dimension
Posted on 10/14/26 at 1:16 pm to Tiger328
quote:
dithiopyr (Dimension)
That's what I was trying to say above lol
Posted on 10/14/26 at 1:57 pm to Tiger328
As others have said Dimension and also adding simazine would take care of most other annual winter broadleaves and annua bluegrass (poa). Will need to be rained or watered in after application if possible.
Posted on 10/14/26 at 2:26 pm to Tiger328
I would take a different approach. Since burrweed seeds have already dropped, I wouldn’t do anything currently. Instead, I would wait for them to sprout next spring and spray the newly sprouted plants with something designed to kill broadleaf weeds.
There will be a time next January of February when your turf is still dormant, but stuff like clover and burr weed greens up. That period will only last about a week, but that’s the time to spray.
Incidentally, burrweed grows, because your turf is not healthy enough to choke it out. Might want to do some fertilizing and watering to get your turf in shape.
There will be a time next January of February when your turf is still dormant, but stuff like clover and burr weed greens up. That period will only last about a week, but that’s the time to spray.
Incidentally, burrweed grows, because your turf is not healthy enough to choke it out. Might want to do some fertilizing and watering to get your turf in shape.
Posted on 10/15/26 at 10:55 am to Tiger328
I usually spray my yards with 2-4-D in the spring. Kills the burrweed and clover too.
Posted on 10/16/26 at 9:06 am to CrawDude
Is there anything more natural, not chemical base that you know of that might work? I have a similar situation as OP, but have kids and generally like to try to keep it chemical free from the play areas.
Posted on 10/16/26 at 9:12 am to BigShowGeaux
I understand the concern, but not all chemicals are the same, and they should not be treated as if they are. Of all the things possibly applied to lawns, prodiamine would be extremely low on my concern chart.
Posted on 10/16/26 at 10:36 am to BigShowGeaux
quote:
Is there anything more natural, not chemical base that you know of that might work? I have a similar situation as OP, but have kids and generally like to try to keep it chemical free from the play areas.
Do your best to maintain a healthy lawn, and that applies to all lawn weeds. A heathy lawn, with turf grass cut at the proper height, goes a long way in weed suppression.
Copied from Clemson Universiy’s factsheet on lawn burweed. The same comments-recommendation will be found in any land-university extension weed control fact sheet(s).
“ Cultural Control
Maintain a healthy, dense lawn by fertilizing and liming according to soil test results and mowing at the proper height and frequency for the specific turfgrass in the lawn. Healthy lawn grasses can outcompete burweed for light, water, and nutrients and reduce the level of infestation. For more information on growing healthy turfgrass, see HGIC 1201, Fertilizing Lawns; HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns; and HGIC 1207, Watering Lawns”. LINK
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