- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
I've given up on fighting fair with Dallisgrass
Posted on 8/5/26 at 10:35 am
Posted on 8/5/26 at 10:35 am
I'm going to glyphosate nuke a corner of my yard.
I tried digging it up. I tried wiping the leaves with glyphosate 2 years in a row, multiple applications per season. I tried pre-emergent 3 years in a row.
It's as strong as ever right now. I hate it. I will continue the pre-emergent in these areas, but I'm torching it and scalping/bagging it a couple days later.
There are very selective herbicides for it according to the internet, but they are pricey and often take multiple seasons.
Sidenote: I have crabgrass in one area, virginia buttonweed in another, and dallisgrass in another. 90% of the yard is weed free, but I have very select weeds in areas and they all require different treatment. Infuriating. Makes it harder that I have mixture of cool season (fescue and KBG) and warm season grasses (Bermuda). Im in East TN.
I tried digging it up. I tried wiping the leaves with glyphosate 2 years in a row, multiple applications per season. I tried pre-emergent 3 years in a row.
It's as strong as ever right now. I hate it. I will continue the pre-emergent in these areas, but I'm torching it and scalping/bagging it a couple days later.
There are very selective herbicides for it according to the internet, but they are pricey and often take multiple seasons.
Sidenote: I have crabgrass in one area, virginia buttonweed in another, and dallisgrass in another. 90% of the yard is weed free, but I have very select weeds in areas and they all require different treatment. Infuriating. Makes it harder that I have mixture of cool season (fescue and KBG) and warm season grasses (Bermuda). Im in East TN.
4
Posted on 8/5/26 at 10:53 am to CatfishJohn
quote:
I tried wiping the leaves with glyphosate 2 years in a row, multiple applications per season.
Were you wiping it with the full strength concentrate or diluted at the recommended rate? I figured wiping full strength on mine would hammer it. It kept coming back from the roots. My simple brain didn't realize that full strength causes so much damage to the blades that it wasn't getting down to the roots. Wiping with the dilute knocked most of it out.
This post was edited on 8/5/26 at 12:49 pm
Posted on 8/5/26 at 11:11 am to CatfishJohn
quote:
I tried pre-emergent 3 years in a row.
Won’t work with perennial weeds such as Dallisgrass and VIrginia Buttonweed.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 11:19 am to Loup
quote:
My simple brain didn't realize that full strength causes so much damage to the blades that it wasn't getting down to the roots. Wiping with the concentrate knocked most of it out.
Had a LSU AgCenter weed scientist colleague tell me this very thing some years ago when asking his advice on lawn and landscape weed control.
Same applies to nutsedge sprayed with glyphosate in landscape beds. Repeated sprayings at lower concentrations of active ingredient of the herbicide aid in it being translocated to the roots or nutlets for most effective kill.
This post was edited on 8/5/26 at 12:38 pm
Posted on 8/5/26 at 11:26 am to CrawDude
quote:The bane of my existence.
Virginia Buttonweed.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 1:13 pm to Loup
quote:
Were you wiping it with the full strength concentrate or diluted at the recommended rate? I figured wiping full strength on mine would hammer it. It kept coming back from the roots. My simple brain didn't realize that full strength causes so much damage to the blades that it wasn't getting down to the roots. Wiping with the dilute knocked most of it out.
Diluted at recommended rate. I don't think I've used full strength on anything before...
My neighbors just live with dallisgrass and I'd blame them, but it's concentrated to one spot in my yard year after year. I'm going to nuke it, wait a couple days then scalp it and bag the cuttings, then wait a couple weeks and dig it up again and replace with good dirt.
Rinse and repeat all over the rest of the year as I see it.
I'm going to war.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 1:15 pm to reauxl tigers
quote:
Virginia Buttonweed.
The bane of my existence.
I'm about to attack this with Weed Free Zone, waiting a few days, then scalping, bagging, and pulling it up as well. This is easier to pull up usually.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 1:17 pm to CrawDude
quote:
Won’t work with perennial weeds such as Dallisgrass and VIrginia Buttonweed.
Maybe it just means it'll stop new seeds from germinating? Which is valuable as well.
ETA:
And maybe evidence pre-emergent is working to do that. It just doesn't kill the established perennials
This post was edited on 8/5/26 at 1:18 pm
Posted on 8/5/26 at 1:51 pm to CatfishJohn
quote:
Maybe it just means it'll stop new seeds from germinating? Which is valuable as well.
Sure it will do that. Just wanted to make sure it you were aware that it also proliferates-spreads via underground rhizomes which pre-emergent herbicides don’t address; same with VBW.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 1:54 pm to CrawDude
Not after I nuke it, dig it up, burn it, and piss on it's ashes it won't.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 5:05 pm to CatfishJohn
I had no issues eliminating Virginia Buttonweed with MSM Turf.
Posted on 8/5/26 at 5:17 pm to Bamafig
Celcius by Bayer was tested by a college as the best against Virginia Buttonweed. Had a friend say it does well against Dallas Grass as well.
This post was edited on 8/5/26 at 5:18 pm
Posted on 8/5/26 at 5:40 pm to reauxl tigers
The bane of my existence“
Lucifer weed from hades
Lucifer weed from hades
Posted on 8/5/26 at 9:31 pm to CatfishJohn
Forget about the fescue. Quinclorac used 3 times two weeks a part will clear all those weeds.
This post was edited on 8/5/26 at 10:25 pm
Posted on 8/6/26 at 8:17 am to CatfishJohn
MSMA...
go to domyown.com and order it.... is it approved for residential use? technically no... but lets be honest... i chip golf balls in the back yard from time to time
go to domyown.com and order it.... is it approved for residential use? technically no... but lets be honest... i chip golf balls in the back yard from time to time
Posted on 8/6/26 at 10:01 am to The Eric
Celsius knocked down the VBW pretty good at my house. Now if could just rid the nutsedge which I haven’t sprayed yet.
Any suggestions on getting rid of spurge? I’ve sprayed it with Celsius but it keeps popping up.
Any suggestions on getting rid of spurge? I’ve sprayed it with Celsius but it keeps popping up.
Posted on 8/6/26 at 11:21 am to PapaPogey
quote:
Any suggestions on getting rid of spurge? I’ve sprayed it with Celsius but it keeps popping up.
Same plant keeps popping up or new plants? Try MSM Turf if same plants keep returning. If new plants, apply pre-emergent herbicide. Spurge seeds germinate at a soil temp of 75 F, so going forward you probably need to consider applying a pre-emergent herbicide, like prodiamine or dithiopyr, in May to better suppress spurge.
Posted on 8/6/26 at 1:10 pm to CrawDude
10-4 this house is new to me as of April so I’m trying to get a hold on some weeds, and I’m not sure about what was done previously.
Spurge may be new, not necessarily regrowth.
Here’s some lawn shots from a few weeks ago. Looking good, but there’s a lot of hidden spurge and nutsedge in there. Overall pleased with it but would like to cut it lower but my push mower doesn’t like to, and I don’t want the initial scalp look on my Bermuda.
Spurge may be new, not necessarily regrowth.
Here’s some lawn shots from a few weeks ago. Looking good, but there’s a lot of hidden spurge and nutsedge in there. Overall pleased with it but would like to cut it lower but my push mower doesn’t like to, and I don’t want the initial scalp look on my Bermuda.
Posted on 8/6/26 at 2:55 pm to CrawDude
Ron would also say that time of year is critical with applications for perennial weeds. Applications of glyphosate or any other product that has perennial weed activity are most effective long term when made from mid Sept thru October. Spraying perennials in summer does not lead to translocation (movement) of the herbicide to underground storage organs like rhizomes and stolons which regenerate new plants each year. This movement shifts to underground storage organs in the fall. Get most long term bang for the buck at this time.
Posted on 8/6/26 at 3:20 pm to DIGGY
quote:
Ron would also say that time of year is critical with applications for perennial weeds. Applications of glyphosate or any other product that has perennial weed activity are most effective long term when made from mid Sept thru October. Spraying perennials in summer does not lead to translocation (movement) of the herbicide to underground storage organs like rhizomes and stolons which regenerate new plants each year. This movement shifts to underground storage organs in the fall. Get most long term bang for the buck at this time.
What if I do it now and every month until the Spring?
I refuse to lose.
This post was edited on 8/6/26 at 3:21 pm
Page 1 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News