Installing shiplap

If you are planing to paint then paint it first or else getting between the cracks is a PITA

- paint the boards beforehand

- check to make sure you are square every other board

I went with Nickel gap as well.

What I learned:
- Painting before or after didn’t make a difference to me but I did sand every board down slightly even though they came primed. This was to not create mess in the house after install. You’re going to have to fill nail holes and lightly sand but that’s a small mess to deal with.
- LEVEL YOUR WALL. If you want a uniform look you’re going to want to ensure you address any bowing/warping prior to install. It messes with the gaps and how they look IMO. I’m a perfectionist so this may not be an issue for most.
- Also for uniform and the perfectionist owner, measure wherever the shiplap is going. Account For any moulding (if you’re planning on swapping/keeping crown and base) and rip boards at the top and bottom to fit. This prevents all boards being the same size and all of a sudden at the top or bottom you have an entire row of 3/4 shiplap and the rest of the wall is 5”. If you don’t have a table saw, get one or rent one. Tracks for circular saws are handy as well.
- I painted after with a spray gun for the gaps. As someone mentioned earlier they are a MASSIVE PITA to try and paint by hand. I rolled one room and quickly realized that was not the best course of action. Buy or rent this as well.
- Determine now how you want to treat corners. Are you a “continuous” look person or do you prefer trim pieces that cover inside/outside corners. Will any pieces be cut to “end” on an exposed edge? If so, you may want to look at some shiplap options specifically designed for that.
- If you will be moving any outlets to “hide” them or align them, try to make these adjustments a day or so prior to shiplap install so you are not over complicating and install by adjusting outlets too. Also, Home Depot has outlet extenders. These are great to quickly and very easily move your wall outlets up where they are flush with the new shiplap. From an aesthetic standpoint you want your outlet/wall plates level with the gap lines. Small variations stick out like a sore thumb to me. Which is why I’m sitting on about $120 in new outlets, AV jack components, Screw less wall plates, etc.

If I think of anything else I’ll add later. Hope this helps.

Am I wrong to compare 2020's shiplap to 1970's wood paneling?

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Am I wrong to compare 2020's shiplap to 1970's wood paneling?

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yes and no

shiplap is a classic look, unlike paneling

but you will absolutely be able to date houses based on shiplap in 10 years

if you wanted to get ahead of the next big thing, bead and batten is going to be the next shiplap

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if you wanted to get ahead of the next big thing, bead and batten is going to be the next shiplap

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i like the b&b look for an entry hall wall where you hang hooks for coats but it seems a bit much for a small bathroom (what i'm considering nickel gap for). Nickel gap provides a cleaner more modern style to the walls that don't try to make the bathroom more than it needs to be.

It’s a fad trend like barn wood wallpaper just paint the wall

Some good suggestions here

I haven’t installed it but would like to try it out.
I’m also looking at pecky cypress which I like a lot.

We did it in a bathroom. Pull baseboards and crown. Install the base and crown on top of the shiplap as it will be too wide to butt up against. Also makes it infinitely easier to level it because you don't need to go to the floor or the ceiling.

We primed and painted before and used a brad nailer to hang. Ours was tongue and groove so it give the gapping.