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Started By
Message
crown molding
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:01 pm
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:01 pm
whats the best way to cut inside corners? dont want to jack up hundreds of dollars worth of molding
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:05 pm to Basinhunterfisher
What size crown and what kind of saw do you have to work with? Personally, unless it's a very small room, I cope the corners using a coping saw and good Olson blades. There's quite a few tips and tricks; knowing how to roll the crown and corners, how to nest the crown in the miter saw, etc.
This post was edited on 7/23/25 at 3:08 pm
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:05 pm to Basinhunterfisher
Baw, if you’re asking you’re gonna F up some crown 
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:15 pm to Basinhunterfisher
upside down and backwards....
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:26 pm to Basinhunterfisher
Get on of these, I did a whole house using one.
ETA: I had never done crown moulding before doing it in this house.
ETA: I had never done crown moulding before doing it in this house.
This post was edited on 7/23/25 at 3:29 pm
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:28 pm to Basinhunterfisher
Caulk is your friend
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:30 pm to Basinhunterfisher
quote:
whats the best way to cut inside corners?
while coping for some reason has a reputation of being a highly skilled techinque, its not bad at all. Coping gives you some play in cutting accuracy. You can have a section cut 1/8" short and it will still be ok.
So get a coping saw and watch a couple youtube vids. Do your best and caulk the rest.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 3:33 pm to Clames
quote:
I cope the corners using a coping saw
Yep, coping saw is key for tight joints since many corners are not square to begin with and coping allows for wiggle room to get them tight.
Or, you could cheat and get those decorative corner blocks and just need to make straight cuts to the corner blocks.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 4:55 pm to gumbo2176
Yep. Cheater blocks. Despise them.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 5:03 pm to Turnblad85
quote:
You can have a section cut 1/8" short and it will still be ok.
When I did trim work for a living, we ran the first piece square, left coped the next 2 sides, then double-coped the last. All pieces except the last were maybe 1/16" short of the exact length. The double cope was exact or rounded up to the next 1/16th so it would pop in. Longer walls are more forgiving but you had to have good technique to run it by yourself.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 5:11 pm to Clames
I would do all I could to avoid the dreaded double cope.
Always started on the back wall 90 cuts on both ends then go around the room clockwise.
Always started on the back wall 90 cuts on both ends then go around the room clockwise.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 5:25 pm to Basinhunterfisher
Using a coping saw is a great skill to have.
I've also used a combo of angle grinder and a wooden rasp is pretty easy as well.
I've also used a combo of angle grinder and a wooden rasp is pretty easy as well.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 5:26 pm to 9rocket
Never minded coping after I got decent at it. Good coping saw (old wood handle USA made Craftsman in my case) and good blades (US- or Swiss-made Olson or Pegas mediums) makes it much less a chore and more a challenge to see how fast you could go and still keep it clean. My habit is to lay over the cope too much so it's more work and a thinner edge that's easy to damage. One guy I worked with would cope almost flat then take his utility knife and carve out the cheek, I never liked doing that except on really odd crown styles.
This post was edited on 7/23/25 at 5:55 pm
Posted on 7/23/25 at 5:46 pm to Basinhunterfisher
What tools do you have? A 10” compound miter saw? If so search for the Ron Paulk crown moulding video on you tube. He explains his process very well and how he hangs crown by himself.
Posted on 7/23/25 at 8:28 pm to Clames
I don’t mind coping. I cope just about everything. On wide, stain grade base and crown I’ll usually use a jigsaw and clean it up as necessary.
I just don’t like a cope on both ends. Always takes me 2-3 attempts.
I just don’t like a cope on both ends. Always takes me 2-3 attempts.
Posted on 7/24/25 at 8:04 am to 9rocket
i have a miter saw , was thinking of the blocks but would rather not use them, lol wife says dont mess this up
Posted on 7/24/25 at 9:24 am to Basinhunterfisher
I’ve run a lot of crown. The key to getting a good inside corner fit is letting the square cut (the end the coped side mates with) float. When you’re nailing that square end, don’t nail it any closer than like 2’ from the corner. That way, when it’s time to mate up the coped end, you can twist the floating square end in whatever direction it needs to go to get a good fit. Once your fit is good, nail the coped end and it will hold the square end in place. You can nail the floating/square end after that, but don’t nail it any closer than 6-8” or so from the corner, or it may pull it in and screw up your joint.
Posted on 7/24/25 at 10:13 am to GeauxldMember
quote:
When you’re nailing that square end, don’t nail it any closer than like 2’ from the corner.
Yeah, two studs back and keep a light hammer and knocking block to help tap the corners in if it doesn't want to roll easily. Another tip is to make sure the crown is nested properly in the saw, use a short piece and mark the fence with a pencil line or use masking tape and a fine marker.
Posted on 7/24/25 at 1:19 pm to Major Dutch Schaefer
Thanks for showing that product. May give it a try. 
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