re: Calling AC experts of the OT. AC hits setpoint, warms back to 80+, rinse and repeat

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Your window unit is facing the wrong direction. Controls should be on the inside of the house.

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Is there some window unit inside joke on the OT I'm unaware of? lol

It sounds like a bad thermostat. Try swapping it for another one. Your compressor seems fine

You compressor seems to be working. However, if its being sent an "on" signal all the time, even when the thermostat is not calling for it, your evap and lines will freeze.

Not saying that's the issue but ask your guy to check.

I was having the same problem. It would be fine in the morning and start rising. Son of a bitch never quit running all day and finally topped out at 81. Full of Freon and coils were clean on both units. Outside unit was 20 years old, inside was 16. I had both units changed yesterday. Working fine.

Yikes. We’ll see. These responses have been helpful fellas. I’m going to get a new thermostat and see if that helps any and then go from there. Thanks everyone

This year sucks for everyone. I don't say that to make light of your situation, I say that to tell you that you're not alone in this shite.

It will get better. Hell, Auburn may even find an OL before the next time we play.

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Get window units and don't look back

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Had my AC serviced and the guy was talking about the new freon and how much a new unit would cost..I told him screw that I would be getting window units..I felt bad telling him that because he is a honest guy...

I'm with the "check the thermostat" crowd at this point. If the pressures are correct, that normally indicates a proper fill (not always, though problems that can cause normal pressures for improper fills tend to skew to the "worse" end of the spectrum). It sounds like the outside of the coils, both evaporator and condenser, are clean as well. A faulty thermostat is the next place I'd look because that's cheap and simple to test. It should literally be disconnecting some wires out of the old thermostat and reconnecting them into the $40 new thermostat. The new thermostat should come with directions on how to connect the wires. Read it thoroughly and make sure you understand generally what's going to happen before doing anything. When you're ready to start, TURN THE BREAKERS OFF for both the inside and outside unit. Pull the existing thermostat from its base and before you start disconnecting wires, get that manual back out and sit there with the old thermostat, the new thermostat, and the connection instructions before you start disconnecting any wires to make sure you know what wire on the old thermostat goes where on the new one. Label them one by one as you disconnect them with the location they should go on the new thermostat and follow the instructions, and you should be able to handle it. When you disconnect the first wire, make sure to tie it around something bigger than the hole in the wall that the wire comes through. I usually just use a stick or a pencil. That way, the cable's own weight can't drag it back into the hole in the wall the instant you disconnect the last wire. If that happens, well, that's just not fun.

If you don't feel you can handle that, it's probably going to cost you a couple hundred bucks to have a tech come out to do it. The part's cheap, but the labor and minimum charge is not.

Unfortunately, if it isn't the thermostat, you're probably starting to get to the end of the cheap low-hanging fruit. The possibilities from there are likely to start getting increasingly expensive (in both parts and labor) to troubleshoot and replace; I'm fairly comfortable saying that your existing system has reached the end of its service life (though some systems do run far beyond their expected expiration date), so these repairs also become increasingly less attractive to fix versus replacing the whole thing. If you start seeing that you're about to go down the "fix parts this week so it'll run until you have to fix another part next week" path, this might be the time. Even Travis knew when it was time to put Ole Yeller down.

The good news is that Young Yeller is way more efficient and can come with way more standard self-diagnostic and control options than Ole Yeller.

It’s a good practice to take a picture of the original thermostat wiring configuration in case you have to restore unit to working conditions.

Is the indoor unit fan blowing? If not then possible float switch or control board

Is the outdoor unit fan running when calling for cooling?

Does the compressor kick on when unit calling for cooling?

Are the refrigerant lines icing up? Low Freon

Is the indoor or out door break or tripping?