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re: Anyone a motor oil geek?
Posted on 5/26/26 at 8:13 am to Lucky_Stryke
Posted on 5/26/26 at 8:13 am to Lucky_Stryke
Wouldn't say I'm a geek but I do have a bitog account..
1
Posted on 5/26/26 at 8:56 am to GREENHEAD22
quote:
I can't recall the name of the channel but there is a super geek on YT that covers everything you need to know. Ran a multi year test and recorded it all.
One of the big things he showed was brand does not matter. As long as you are getting the same grade oils the Walmart brand is as good as Mobile 1.
Its the motor oil geek. Its very interesting. The main thing is change in timely fashion but there is absolutely a difference in motor oils from brand to brand and also type.
For instance Mobil1 has an oil called advanced fuel economy and valvoline has restore and protect. obvioulsy the chemistry is dillferent as they are designed for different applications.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 8:57 am to TheBoo
quote:
Wouldn't say I'm a geek but I do have a bitog account..
that place is a wealth of knowledge!
Posted on 5/26/26 at 9:00 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Since we are in a safe place for nerding out, what standard is it tested to?
i believe the standard is ISO 4548-12 but there could be more
Posted on 5/26/26 at 10:35 am to UptownJoeBrown
I used to run mobile 1, but now I do Amsoil. I've seen a noticeable difference after using Amsoil. I still consider Mobile 1 a good oil, but Amsoil is the best there is imo.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 10:47 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
Amsoil is the best there is imo.
I agree. Their signature series top quality it’s just high as pterodactyl titties. Even with preferred customer program. But if you don’t mind the money it’s great
Posted on 5/26/26 at 11:29 am to MikeBRLA
quote:
5w30 will protect better than 0w20.
That isnt automatically true by default. More viscosity = lower flow and cascading effects from that. Higher pressure, lower heat transfer, higher pumping loss, others. They get worse with cold starts. Depending on the engines duty cycle, more viscosity might well be worse.
The easiest way to find the line between what is driven by CAFE vs what the engine wants is to study what other markets the engine is sold into and see what is specd for those markets. If they sell the same engine in south America and spec higher viscosity, youre probably safe to use that here. For instance, a subaru boxer calls for 0w20 in north America and 5w30 in England. You can confidently use 5w30 in that engine, because you know its designed for it. Its not specd for 15w40 anywhere in the world, so thats probably not going to work in your favor.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 11:48 am to Lucky_Stryke
Ill try to remember to look today - i think the ISO spec is the more rigorous test than the asme one.
Filter companies often use a lot of funny math and testing manipulation to make their product appear at a glance to be comparable to OEM. Some 3rd parties actually sell a comparable product (Mann Hummel, Boll and Kirsch, Parker, etc) and others rely purely on marketing frickery to move their product.
OEM is almost always the best. With lube oil filters, it also.mostly doesn't matter. Reciprocating engines can take a lot of crap in the oil for a long time. With cars, usually the rest of the car has rusted away before the engine wears out.
Filter companies often use a lot of funny math and testing manipulation to make their product appear at a glance to be comparable to OEM. Some 3rd parties actually sell a comparable product (Mann Hummel, Boll and Kirsch, Parker, etc) and others rely purely on marketing frickery to move their product.
OEM is almost always the best. With lube oil filters, it also.mostly doesn't matter. Reciprocating engines can take a lot of crap in the oil for a long time. With cars, usually the rest of the car has rusted away before the engine wears out.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 12:09 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
That isnt automatically true by default. More viscosity = lower flow and cascading effects from that. Higher pressure, lower heat transfer, higher pumping loss, others. They get worse with cold starts
The winter rating is more related for flow. For most of us a 5W is more than adequate. In Minnesota you should go for 0w.
30 grade def protects better as it’s higher hths and more viscous. Also one thing to consider is that if it shears out of grade due to fuel dilution or other circumstances, then that 20 grade is now inadequate to protect and you will get much worse wear vs if a 30 grade shears out of grade it’s essentially a 20.
I will say there is a slight hit to mpg by moving up a grade so everything is a trade off. Most of the time its minimal to not even noticeable, but it could sometimes be more depending on environment and vehicle
Posted on 5/26/26 at 12:11 pm to Lucky_Stryke
A long time ago it either read or heard on the radio about a study where they tracked taxi cabs in New York and broke engines down to check wear and their conclusion was basically that it doesn’t matter what oil (brand, synthetic,’etc.) and that there is no issue up to about 12,000 miles between changes. After that, problems may occur.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 12:40 pm to LEASTBAY
quote:
Project farm most likely.
No, there's is a YouTube channel called "The Motor Oil Geek" and the guy is a real expert on the subject. Far more detailed than PF and actually clears up some things PF gets wrong because they are commonly held misconceptions about motor oils.
The Motor Oil Geek
Posted on 5/26/26 at 12:42 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Ill try to remember to look today - i think the ISO spec is the more rigorous test than the asme one. Filter companies often use a lot of funny math and testing manipulation to make their product appear at a glance to be comparable to OEM. Some 3rd parties actually sell a comparable product (Mann Hummel, Boll and Kirsch, Parker, etc) and others rely purely on marketing frickery to move their product. OEM is almost always the best. With lube oil filters, it also.mostly doesn't matter. Reciprocating engines can take a lot of crap in the oil for a long time. With cars, usually the rest of the car has rusted away before the engine wears out.
I watched some filter testing videos from a couple guys on YouTube and ford was the best oem. Toyota was one of the worst. Meaning particulate filtration. Now I’m not saying it’s the gospel but every video I’ve seen about Toyota filters results put it close to bottom. Carquest premium get solid reviews from everywhere I’ve seen. And it’s not been affected by covid manufacturing like some were. Fram is now out of business until someone new buys their rights and who knows what quality it will be
This post was edited on 5/26/26 at 2:07 pm
Posted on 5/26/26 at 2:09 pm to ChEgrad
quote:
A long time ago it either read or heard on the radio about a study where they tracked taxi cabs in New York and broke engines down to check wear and their conclusion was basically that it doesn’t matter what oil (brand, synthetic,’etc.) and that there is no issue up to about 12,000 miles between changes. After that, problems may occur.
I’m not disagreeing with you, but there is no way I’d run 12k mile intervals on oil changes much less heavy city traffic 12k mile intervals.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 6:35 pm to Lucky_Stryke
I have a 2021 tundra. It's the las t year of the 5.7 V8. It has around 95,000 miles and the last oil change I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W 30 and a purolator filter. My gas mileage has not changed whatsoever according to the computer, but the truck is noticeably quieter and idles much smoother. I don't know if I'm going to switch to Mobil 1 next oil change or stick with the Pennzoil. All I know is I'm not going back to 0W 20.
I would like to know why in the hell toyota has the damn drain plug draining off to the side of the truck and not towards the back/strait down. It makes a massive mess every damn time.
I would like to know why in the hell toyota has the damn drain plug draining off to the side of the truck and not towards the back/strait down. It makes a massive mess every damn time.
This post was edited on 5/26/26 at 6:37 pm
Posted on 5/26/26 at 6:51 pm to Bonnie Blue
Ultra platinum is good oil for sure! What version of mobil1? IMO ultra platinum and mobil1 esp are difficult to top. I’d stay away from advanced fuel economy personally as I value protection over a slight (maybe none) decrease in mpg.
Esp has more certifications than any other oil I know of. Mercedes Benz 229.51 and more. However it’s not gf7 due to the phosphorus being over 800. Which isn’t a bad thing but technically doesn’t fit the spec.
Esp has more certifications than any other oil I know of. Mercedes Benz 229.51 and more. However it’s not gf7 due to the phosphorus being over 800. Which isn’t a bad thing but technically doesn’t fit the spec.
This post was edited on 5/26/26 at 7:02 pm
Posted on 5/27/26 at 12:34 pm to UptownJoeBrown
quote:
The most important thing is to change your oil and filter regularly.
And 2nd most important is to be consistent with brand and type/viscosity.
I bought the oil change package from dealership with my truck. Change oil 5,000 miles which is about every 2 months or so.
Posted on 5/27/26 at 1:22 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Ive taken the "change it enough and nothing else really matters" approach with my personal stuff. It can be fun to nerd out on though.
I have been weirded out by the 10K oil changes recommended by Toyota. Have a new Tundra and took it in at 5K when the maintenance required signal popped up and just assumed it was for an oil change. Turns out it was just a 5K tire rotation and the oil change wasn't until 10K.
I'm at 53K miles now and no issues (which should be the case) but man 10K gaps in oil change is just weird. Though I figure Toyota has put a little more into R&D than I have so i go with it.
Posted on 5/27/26 at 2:35 pm to jasonbr1975
quote:
And 2nd most important is to be consistent with brand and type/viscosity.
This does have some validity. If you constantly swap around there is always remnants from previous oil that gets mixed in. So if you plan on doing an analysis keep that in mind
Posted on 5/27/26 at 2:41 pm to iwyLSUiwy
I cringe at 10k miles service with Toyota oil and filters. You typically won’t see any issues to 100-150k miles from them. (Not every time though obviously). If your running amsoil with high end oil filter then I could see stretching out to maybe 7-8k but I’d send in a sample for analysis to make sure it’s still in grade and wear metals.
Ultra platinum and esp are still 30 bucks and under for 5 quart jugs. So I don’t see a reason not to stick to 5k intervals with these oils vs running the risk for 10k miles service for 50 bucks or less including filter on a lot of circumstances
Ultra platinum and esp are still 30 bucks and under for 5 quart jugs. So I don’t see a reason not to stick to 5k intervals with these oils vs running the risk for 10k miles service for 50 bucks or less including filter on a lot of circumstances
Posted on 5/27/26 at 2:49 pm to Lucky_Stryke
quote:
but I’d send in a sample for analysis to make sure it’s still in grade and wear metals.
Got a link to where to do this?
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