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re: 2025 Spring Garden Thread
Posted on 2/4/25 at 12:41 pm to cgrand
Posted on 2/4/25 at 12:41 pm to cgrand
You can definitely go wrong with organics in containers/raised beds/etc., depending on how they are applied. This is especially true in hot climates. Planting into a container of any sort that is filled with rich (over 50%) organic material will cause your produce to absolutely take off at first. After 10-15 months or so, those organics begin to decompose and consume oxygen. You end up with an anaerobic environment that kills plant roots.
If you are growing annual crops and replacing soil each season, then this will not affect you. You will recycle the soil quickly enough before it becomes anoxic sludge at the bottom. If you are trying to have any sort of permanent soil in a pot/raised bed/planter, you want to use a mixture that is mostly inorganic (sand/pumice/perlite/decomposed granite/etc.) along with a slow-decomposing organic to hold moisture like peat or coco coir. Then, on top of that mostly inorganic mix, put a 1-2 inch layer of compost. As you water, the nutrients from the compost will seep down through the fast-draining mineral layer to your roots, which will now have permanent access to oxygen. Top off the compost top dressing as needed, just don't dig it down into your soil.
This has completely changed my entire approach to growing almost anything and the results are fantastic.
If you are growing annual crops and replacing soil each season, then this will not affect you. You will recycle the soil quickly enough before it becomes anoxic sludge at the bottom. If you are trying to have any sort of permanent soil in a pot/raised bed/planter, you want to use a mixture that is mostly inorganic (sand/pumice/perlite/decomposed granite/etc.) along with a slow-decomposing organic to hold moisture like peat or coco coir. Then, on top of that mostly inorganic mix, put a 1-2 inch layer of compost. As you water, the nutrients from the compost will seep down through the fast-draining mineral layer to your roots, which will now have permanent access to oxygen. Top off the compost top dressing as needed, just don't dig it down into your soil.
This has completely changed my entire approach to growing almost anything and the results are fantastic.
This post was edited on 2/4/25 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 2/4/25 at 6:14 pm to Tigerlaff
Something is already taking my strawberries. Guess the raccoon trap is being deployed.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 7:25 pm to Tigerlaff
Tigerlaff - I used miracle gro organic raised bed and garden soil bags to fill my boxes last year. You mention organic may not be best? Do I need to switch out soil or can I just add some compost to the box this year?
Posted on 2/5/25 at 8:02 am to LSUTiger23
quote:
I used miracle gro organic raised bed and garden soil bags to fill my boxes last year. You mention organic may not be best? Do I need to switch out soil or can I just add some compost to the box this year?
Anything Miracle Gro is going to be a bunch of ground up wood chips (organic) and will decompose within a year. If you want to use the same soil every year, then I'd replace most of that with something more mineral based (sand, pumice, perlite, etc.). Compost will just add more organic matter to the mix, which will also decompose. You want the organic layer on top, not throughout the entire bed where the roots are. The roots do not "eat" organic material. They eat glucose that comes down from the leaves and they absorb nutrients through water. When you water the organic top layer, the roots below get what they need without being robbed of oxygen through decomposition.
Look on the ingredients list of any bagged soil. It's going to say something like 40-70% "recycled forest products." That means wood chip waste from sawmills, etc. They use this stuff for 3 reasons. 1) it's cheap, 2) it's light and ships cheaply, 3) it will give you one good growing season before it all breaks down, which is all 90% of the country uses it for anyway.
The absolute perfect mix for me has been what Gary Matsuoka of Laguna Hills nursery uses in his Top Pot soil:
35% peat
30% pumice
20% perlite
10% sand
5% biochar
This mix holds some moisture, breathes, and does not compact/breakdown over time. I put an inch of compost on top of that with some osmocote and then mulch on top of that to help with moisture retention. This is a permanent soil. The only reason I ever take things out is to prune the roots of potted plants. It then goes right back into the pot with the same soil.
Here is a YouTube link of Gary explaining the philosophy of this method:
LINK
I grow key limes, guavas, cattley guavas, loquats, sapodillas, star fruit, peppers, hibiscus, and about a million other things in this mix.
This post was edited on 2/5/25 at 8:24 am
Posted on 2/8/25 at 9:58 am to Tigerlaff
Maters are seeded on the heat mat and starting to come up.
I've taken the tilly and scratched the top of the dirt a few times. Gonna try potatoes and onions this year. Spring crops like broccoli, lettuce, cabbage and raddish go in the ground this weekend.
This shite is too much like work.
I've taken the tilly and scratched the top of the dirt a few times. Gonna try potatoes and onions this year. Spring crops like broccoli, lettuce, cabbage and raddish go in the ground this weekend.
This shite is too much like work.
Posted on 2/8/25 at 11:08 am to bamarep
It's been 15 days and no tomato seedlings. I gambled and used old seeds, 3-4 per block thinking I'd have decent success, but nothing. They're seeds from 2 years ago, but I still thought at least a few would be good.
Posted on 2/8/25 at 12:28 pm to LSUJuice
I’ll be potting up my tomato seeds today. I went out this morning and cleaned up some of the dead stuff in the strawberry box. Lots of flowers popping up. Also hit them with some calcium nitrate.
FYI, according to LSU Ag, a side dressing of calcium nitrate should be made in late January to early February. And again around mid March to early April.
FYI, according to LSU Ag, a side dressing of calcium nitrate should be made in late January to early February. And again around mid March to early April.
Posted on 2/9/25 at 8:24 am to LSUJuice
quote:
but I still thought at least a few would be good.
That’s what I’m hoping for my onion seeds I planted yesterday. Also starting some tomatoes, peppers, cilantro and cauliflower. I’m going to start another tray in a few weeks in case I lose these. I just thought LA weather was wild, went from 90 to 24 overnight a few days ago.
Picked a handful of radishes and my turnips and carrots have bounced back surprisingly well from the -3 temps. Snow cover had to play a part, green onions look fine.
Posted on 2/9/25 at 8:58 am to PillageUrVillage
Turned the dirt a couple of time where I plant my peas/beans/etc today. Will put out some lime hopefully next weekend.
Got the onions and potatoes in the ground this weekend. Contemplating pulling all my landscape cloth up and turning that dirt over. I have new cloth to put down. I'm just being lazy about it.
Tomato seeds are coming up good. I'll give them another week under the light and then seed my peppers out. I threw a few squash seeds in a 6 pack and put under the light just for shits and giggles and they're coming up already.
Got the onions and potatoes in the ground this weekend. Contemplating pulling all my landscape cloth up and turning that dirt over. I have new cloth to put down. I'm just being lazy about it.
Tomato seeds are coming up good. I'll give them another week under the light and then seed my peppers out. I threw a few squash seeds in a 6 pack and put under the light just for shits and giggles and they're coming up already.
Posted on 2/9/25 at 12:18 pm to bamarep
When starting seeds is it ok to leave them in the house by a window or is it too cold inside?
Posted on 2/10/25 at 3:38 pm to mikie421
Ideal soil temp for most of the spring type vegetables is usually around 70-85F. Depends on what temp you keep your home. On the cooler side and they may still germinate but it’ll take longer. Any way you can provide a little extra warmth will speed up the process. Just don’t go too hot cause that can also cause germination issues.
Posted on 2/11/25 at 6:43 am to PillageUrVillage
Should I separate the onions from the other plants? I have them all under a single dome on heat mat inside.
Posted on 2/11/25 at 7:46 am to Capt ST
my onions went in the ground Nov. 16.
Posted on 2/11/25 at 7:51 am to Capt ST
quote:
Should I separate the onions from the other plants? I have them all under a single dome on heat mat inside.
Did you start these from seed recently?
Posted on 2/11/25 at 12:25 pm to mikie421
quote:
When starting seeds is it ok to leave them in the house by a window or is it too cold inside?
Get some cheap heating pads from Amazon. You'll be pleased you did.
Posted on 2/11/25 at 3:25 pm to TimeOutdoors
Something like this will also be beneficial. LINK.You can use the heaating pad and light year after year.
It's still early enough.
Good luck!
It's still early enough.
Good luck!
Posted on 2/12/25 at 6:38 am to PillageUrVillage
quote:
Did you start these from seed recently?
Yes, over the weekend.
Posted on 2/12/25 at 12:27 pm to bamarep
quote:
This shite is too much like work.
Gardening is more like therapy to me.
Posted on 2/12/25 at 8:31 pm to Mr Sausage
quote:
my onions went in the ground Nov. 16.
Been below 20 here for several hours now, headed to 8. Plants did alright on last cold snap, but we had 8” of snow cover.
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