re: 2023 Lawn Thread - Helpful Tips, Q&A, general discussion

Think I have a plan. Back yard needs N and K, Front N and lime. P is high or very high in both. Plan (per 1k ft2):

Back Yard:
4 lbs AMS now/early May
3 weeks later spray iron to counter the high P, Talstar
7lbs 15-0-15 Mid June
7lbs. 15-0-15 August

Also will do maintenance diseaseEx and peat moss on bare areas from last year.

Front Yard:
4lbs AMS each May/June/August.
16 lbs lime each time as well.

I figure the only way to get rid of high P is to wait it out. Any comments on this plan? Do I need to worry about the low sulfur?

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Puffoluffagus

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Good job - concise but thorough.

I suppose at some point in the future a section on common lawn diseases and health - large patch, take all root rot, gray leaf spot - and insect damage issues - cinch bugs, fall army worms - would be appropriate to add to the sticky.

Seems to me there are more lawn disease questions this spring than in the past, and there is a seasonality to many of the lawn health issues, and this can assist homeowners in troubleshooting.most likely cause(s) of health issues in various months of the calendar year. There are a number of good, short fact sheets on these lawn heath issues, often with calendars showing likelihood of highest occurrence, that can be linked.

Grass type? Where do you live? What month did the problem start and did the grass yellow or develop spots before dying?

On the topic of lawn disease…

I put down some St Augustine sod about a week and a half ago and I’ve been watering twice a day like recommended. But it looks like it’s developing what I believe is gray leaf spot.


If that’s what it is, I have some of this stuff. Gray leaf spot is listed as one of the diseases it treats.


A few questions here. Should I cut back on watering? Is it ok to treat the sod with this fungicide even though it’s only been down about a week and a half? If so, will this fungicide suffice, or should I use something else?

New sod almost always gets grey leaf spot. If it’s on the label then it’s ok to use. Is your grass rooted? If so you can dial back a bit in watering.

It very well could have been the freeze. However, centipede can get TARR. If the spots aren’t growing in size and there is no yellowing I wouldn’t apply a fungicide.

If you don’t want to resod I’d aerate and overseed.

Yeah, you just tug on it. You can reduce watering a bit. It sounds like sod is doing fine minus the leaf spot.

Anybody?

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Need some help. My yard was in very good shape last year. These pictures of my yard are 2 different spot. The dark spots are low. I tried peat moss but I think it suffocated it and now it’s just dirt. The weeds are everywhere and I spend 30 min a day when I get home just walking around pulling it up.

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Ronk is the man with this stuff so maybe he will chime in, but from what I've seen online I'd:
-Apply fungicide
-Gently rake the dead stuff up
-Add a 50/50 mix of topsoil and sand over the whole space to to 1/2" or so

Wait for it to spread.

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I have not yet fertilized either and know I need to. How long after msm should i wait to fertilize? Does the order matter?

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Order doesn't matter too much. In general probably want to space it a few days.

Fertilizer application you're going to want to either water it in or rely on a rain shower to do it. On the flip side, when you spray weeds, you don't want to wash off the chemical that needs to soak into the leaves to work. Thus the ideal need to space it.

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Also, was planning to just do 10-10-10 fert. I have not done soil sample. Any problem with that?

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No problem a balanced fertilizer is reasonable to do. Another reason a lot of st. aug and centipede users tend to milgoranite etc.