- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: PC Discussion - Gaming, Performance and Enthusiasts
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:25 pm to DoUrden
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:25 pm to DoUrden
quote:
I have to hand it to you guys that do water cooling, I just don't have the patience or desire to do it.
Patience is only required with hard tubing. Fckk that shtt. Never again. Everything needs to be perfect lengths. The planning of assembly is the worst part. Fittings don't just slide together, they need to be rotated and screwed but not screwed too much with pressure. You can ruin the gaskets that way.
I only do hard tubing for the SLi bridge, runs between both RADs and the RES/Pump. Those things are pretty much static. They have moved spots in years. But the MOBO/CPU/GPUs will change every 1-1.5yrs. So you need to make that easier to rip down and put back up.
0
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:32 pm to LSU Coyote
quote:
Looks awesome. Really digging those Monsoons. But Go Res/Pump -> GPU -> CPU -> RAD
Thanks
Not doing the GPU just yet, main goal was to get that stupid 7700k cooled, lol
I was going to do it up front, I think I may go that route when I get a GPU block.
Since I have a D5 and it cools using the water as well, I thought it might be better to do
Res/pump -> rad -> CPU so the CPU is the first to get cool water from the rad. Thoughts?
This post was edited on 5/4/17 at 9:33 pm
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:53 pm to Dam Guide
No, don't worry about loop order for cooling purposes, just aim for logical/short route of tubing. The water is moving through your loop fast enough that the temperature of the water is at near equilibrium throughout the entire loop, maybe a 3C difference depending on where it is in the loop at any given moment. As long as the pump doesn't run dry, you're ok.
Also, once you've confirmed no major leaks, remove the towels and wrap the fittings with toilet paper instead; it'll make it easier to detect super-slow leaks since toilet paper deteriorates immediately upon contact with water.
Also, once you've confirmed no major leaks, remove the towels and wrap the fittings with toilet paper instead; it'll make it easier to detect super-slow leaks since toilet paper deteriorates immediately upon contact with water.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:59 pm to ILikeLSUToo
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:45 pm to USAF Hart
How is your pump connected? reading online it seems that H50 pump should be running at a constant speed of around 4400rpm, and I'm only seeing two fan speeds there, neither of which are high enough.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:47 pm to ILikeLSUToo
Finally took a pic of my latest upgrade. Need better lighting, or a better camera, or better photography skills.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:50 pm to ILikeLSUToo
I see neon!!!!! 
Looks great as usual! As I get even older I am finding my patience to build is getting less and less, I'm afraid I will be an Alienware customer soon....lol
Looks great as usual! As I get even older I am finding my patience to build is getting less and less, I'm afraid I will be an Alienware customer soon....lol
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:52 pm to DoUrden
Tasteful LEDs dammit
Probably going to disable the one coming from the board itself. MSI advertises "RGB" lighting but you really only get to choose from half a dozen colors, and the "white" color option is too blue compared to the RAM and SLI bridge.
Probably going to disable the one coming from the board itself. MSI advertises "RGB" lighting but you really only get to choose from half a dozen colors, and the "white" color option is too blue compared to the RAM and SLI bridge.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:56 pm to ILikeLSUToo
looks awesome, except that childish blue neon shite.
ETA : fricking beat me to it.
ETA : fricking beat me to it.
This post was edited on 5/4/17 at 10:57 pm
Posted on 5/4/17 at 11:16 pm to SpeedyNacho
Yep. fricking MSI.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 6:41 am to ILikeLSUToo
quote:
No, don't worry about loop order for cooling purposes, just aim for logical/short route of tubing.
Yes.
I was talking about shorter runs.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 7:08 am to LSU Coyote
I know, just wanted to clarify that he doesn't need to worry about the block -> pump order dumping extra heat on the pump when he arranges for shorter runs.
Took another pic with the MSI LED disabled.
Took another pic with the MSI LED disabled.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 8:11 am to ILikeLSUToo
I feel so poor
Posted on 5/5/17 at 8:13 am to ILikeLSUToo
My room has shitty lighting
Posted on 5/5/17 at 8:51 am to ILikeLSUToo
quote:
No, don't worry about loop order for cooling purposes, just aim for logical/short route of tubing.
K, I may drop the rad and flip it then. Only have one tube making the turn by the graphics card. Probably look a lot cleaner that way.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 12:32 pm to Dam Guide
I think I am happy with the loop this way
Posted on 5/5/17 at 12:37 pm to Dam Guide
What would this wire be called and where could I find a replacement, my came apart at the connector. It's the wire that controls the front panel buttons.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 1:38 pm to DoUrden
That's the USB 3.0 cable for the front of your case. I'd email or call up your case maker to get one.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 1:56 pm to Dam Guide
Corsair Obsidian Series 550D Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
$20 at Corsair
$20 at Corsair
This post was edited on 5/5/17 at 2:04 pm
Posted on 5/5/17 at 2:03 pm to DoUrden
Here's Corsair's parts store for your case: LINK
I've ordered direct from their store before. Shipping is a bit slow but it gets there. It looks like you'll have to order the full front panel connector assembly, but it's only $15. Pretty common for it to be sold as an assembly, as the wires are usually glued/soldered to the front panel connections.
EDIT: I see you found it
I've ordered direct from their store before. Shipping is a bit slow but it gets there. It looks like you'll have to order the full front panel connector assembly, but it's only $15. Pretty common for it to be sold as an assembly, as the wires are usually glued/soldered to the front panel connections.
EDIT: I see you found it
This post was edited on 5/5/17 at 2:05 pm
Page 1330 of 1912
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News