re: TulaneLSU's top 10 pizzas of Mississippi

Friends,

After reading recently in the Times-Picayune that White Pillars of Biloxi, a Michelin-recognized establishment, had recently introduced a Sunday evening pizza program, I confess that my enthusiasm was considerable. One assumes that a restaurant of such distinction, particularly one receiving the attention of McNulty in the finest newspaper in the Southeast, would have mastered the lowly pizza. Elsewise, why advertise it?

Having survived last month's hurricane, Mother and I decided on our journey home to make a Sunday evening detour through Biloxi. We ordered both the cheese and pepperoni pizzas, our anticipation not inconsiderable. The evening began auspiciously enough. We were presented with an amuse-bouche, followed by delicious house-made bread and butter. I remarked to Mother that the bread and butter were superior even to those at Razza, where Dan Richter charges a handsome sum for this simple pleasure, being understandably proud of his creations.

I began to entertain the possibility that we were about to experience something extraordinary. Perhaps, I thought, Mississippi's pizza culture might finally receive its redemption at White Pillars.

How grievously mistaken I was.

The closest comparison I can offer for the pizza at White Pillars is Reginelli's. The sauce was chunky, overcooked, processed-tasting, and so thoroughly overseasoned.

And the dough. Good heavens, the dough.

It represented nearly every offense one might commit against a pizza. The top was overcooked while the bottom remained woefully undercooked. The resulting appearance was something like a black and white cookie, with a charred cornicione surrounding a pale, anemic underside. I suspect the dough had received an abbreviated fermentation, for it possessed virtually no flavor, character, or discernible development.

The chef may very well be a talented cook. I have no reason to dispute his abilities in other departments. But serving pizzas of this caliber, which I reluctantly rate a 1.88/10, is an extraordinary disservice to his own restaurant. If the desire to become a hobbyist pizzaiolo has overtaken him, I would encourage him to pursue that calling on his own time and at his own expense. There are undoubtedly local friends and admirers who will assure him that his creations are wonderful. Such assurances, however well-intentioned, are not evidence of excellence much less competence.

I respectfully suggest that the Sunday pizza program be retired until the kitchen can produce something approaching an average pizza. There is no shame in returning to the drawing board. There is, however, considerable shame in continuing to send these particular specimens into the dining room under the respectable name of White Pillars.

The truth may be unpleasant, but a restaurant that takes pride in its menu ought to take equal pride in every item it places upon it. At present, these Sunday evening pizzas bring dishonor to an otherwise excellent menu. Mississippi's pizza redemption will have to wait another day.

Yours,
TulaneLSU

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So you now have a decimal rating system? You started as a plagiarizing story teller to only spiral down ad hack a pizza rating system from a known deuchbag. MOTHER must be so proud.

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Do they give you a squeeze bottle of Kraft French Dressing for your pizza, though?

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5. New York Pizza, Biloxi 6.21
The only Gulf Coast pizzeria making the list

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You're saying this is better than Brooklyn Pizzeria in Gulfport?

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 want to know if he tried Brooklyn, too. When it was in Metairie it was good. Then they sold out to some foreigners and it was awful, then closed. I heard they opened on the coast so was curious

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Different Brooklyn pizzeria. The one I'm speaking of has been around since the 1990s.

Enjoyed your post. Will try when near any.

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Lena Pizza + Bagels ( Cleveland, MS)

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Really does have fantastic pizza. I was not disappointed.

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Someone there thought it would be a good idea to put French dressing on it – it must have been really bad. There is an effort along the coast to bring back this condiment and even classify it as a distinct pizza – Biloxi style pizza, as though adding a clashing salad dressing to a pizza qualifies a city for having a distinct style.

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- I believe it is called Comeback Sauce
- Did you try Tom's in Ocean Springs? It's my favorite on the coast.
- White Pillars is very good. They should stay in their lane and not serve pizza

TriBecca does the calzone really well too.

I had St Leo when it first opened and it was just okay.

Haven’t made it to Leña yet.

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Haven’t made it to Leña yet.

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I've tried twice. The first time I was passing thru and swung by for lunch. Only to find out they are only open for dinner... except for Saturday, when they open for Brunch! So we went on a Saturday morning, only to find that they don't serve pizza on Saturday, only bagels. I wasn't standing in line for no bagel