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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 6/26/20 at 7:58 pm to BugAC
Posted on 6/26/20 at 7:58 pm to BugAC
quote:
My only question, is why whole beans and not ground beans? Doesn't extraction happen faster and more efficiently when the beans are ground?
Good question....I can't give you a good answer. But I brewed my third coffee stout this winter and for the first time used whole beans. It was hands down the best coffee stout I've brewed. So I am sold on whole beans.
ETA: I remember before my first coffee stout Ale Runner told me to use whole beans but I ignored him.
This post was edited on 6/27/20 at 2:10 pm
2
Posted on 6/26/20 at 8:09 pm to Zappas Stache
I concur. I've done both cold brewed and whole beans (per Bmoney's recipe), and whole beans was by far better.
Might go without saying, but make it a high quality, freshly roasted bean.
Might go without saying, but make it a high quality, freshly roasted bean.
Posted on 6/26/20 at 9:24 pm to BottomlandBrew
Dropper with the thorough write up pretty much crushing it. By all means, trust bottomland, Zappa, and dropper on the whole bean rec. My recommendation on cold brew concentrate was entirely based on my experience with coffee rather than brewing coffee stouts. I have only ever brewed one stout much less multiple coffee variations.
Thinking about brewing a shandy kit from one of the online stores. Need something refreshing for August heat.
Thinking about brewing a shandy kit from one of the online stores. Need something refreshing for August heat.
Posted on 6/26/20 at 10:41 pm to puffulufogous
I tapped a pale Brett tonight. Brewed last august. Pilsner base beer fermented with Oslo and then keg aged with Brett c. So funky. Let's admire the head on this.
Posted on 6/27/20 at 7:00 am to BottomlandBrew
Is that bootleg Oslo Kveik? I have used it once and I didn’t have good results. They sent me another packet. What temp do you ferment at? When I tried it, it wouldn’t take off at 75 degrees. I had to use a heater to get it up to 90 before it did anything.
Posted on 6/27/20 at 8:40 am to BottomlandBrew
quote:
tapped a pale Brett tonight. Brewed last august. Pilsner base beer fermented with Oslo and then keg aged with Brett c. So funky. Let's admire the head on this.
I’ve been hesitant to use kveik for anything because I don’t really know what startle it’s good for. Did you stagger pitch or pitch the kveik and Brett at the same time?
Posted on 6/27/20 at 10:54 am to BottomlandBrew
quote:
Feel good to be back in the saddle?
Yea, it was nearly 3 yrs b/w brew days but I still have about 20 random bottles of homebrew left.
quote:
I'm brewing a saison Dupont clone tonight. All pils with a hochkurz mash at 147 and 162. EKG and saaz hops. Blend of 3724 and 565 for the yeast. 120 minute boil.
I eventually settled on a slow rise temp mash for my beers. Dough in around 90F and then slowly raise the temp over a two hour period with regular stirring. I was a bit worried with this new kettle but everything went fine and the stirring was a lot easier, since I had more water volume than in my old mash pot. I boiled for about 90 minutes to hit my volume but then ended up adding a gallon of distilled water. I hit 85% but did all my calculations on 75% (being conservative since 1st time using this setup) and am aiming for something closer to 5% ABV out of the bottle.
This is my first time using 3724. In the past I used my own yeast but wasn't sure about my current samples, given the time between brews. I'll build up starters with them and see what seems viable to use in the future.
Posted on 6/27/20 at 10:57 am to BugAC
quote:
Beer 2 - Modified Jester King Noble King Clone - This was going to be a 5-6 gallon brett explosion. I'm going to go ahead and pitch the brett strains tonight and taste it in about 3-4 months and decide if i need to acidify, or if the brett strains i'm using will produce some slight acidity. If no acidity, i'll probably just blend with 1 gallon of a mixed ferm beer that's been aging.
Have you been pleased with adding Brett after primary? I know that some people aren't fans of doing that. I always added my Brett in primary for my mixed fermentation.
Posted on 6/27/20 at 1:51 pm to BigPerm30
quote:
Is that bootleg Oslo Kveik?
Yeah. I used it a few times last summer. I had good fermentations with it, albeit it wasn't my favorite flavor wise. The owner at Bootleg told me it will stall at less than 75. He says they run all of their batches at 85.
quote:
Did you stagger pitch or pitch the kveik and Brett at the same time?
Stagger pitch. I was curious what the brett would do with such a simple base beer, and it did great things.
Posted on 6/27/20 at 5:58 pm to rds dc
quote:
Have you been pleased with adding Brett after primary? I know that some people aren't fans of doing that. I always added my Brett in primary for my mixed fermentation
So far yes. Sometimes I pitch at once, sometimes I stagger. Happy with both ways.
Posted on 6/29/20 at 8:52 pm to BugAC
So I ended up picking up the fridge/freezer kegerator on Sunday for $250. Seller also included his cleaning supplies so I flushed the lines. AiH has refurb ball lock kegs for 38 and new ones for 75 right now. Any thoughts on new vs used? Should I go ahead and buy new poppits and o rings for the kegs I plan to purchase?
Is this the correct conversion kit? Good price and decent hardware or do I need something different?
Is this the correct conversion kit? Good price and decent hardware or do I need something different?
Posted on 6/30/20 at 8:12 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
I am sold on whole beans.
this is the way
Posted on 6/30/20 at 10:10 am to puffulufogous
quote:
Seller also included his cleaning supplies so I flushed the lines.
Just replace the lines. They are cheap, and lines need to be replaced after every few brews anyway.
quote:
AiH has refurb ball lock kegs for 38 and new ones for 75 right now. Any thoughts on new vs used?
Used. No use in getting new ones, unless you just want a shiny new keg. All of my kegs are used, LA Homebrew does a pretty good job of cleaning them before purchase. I always give them a good PBW and Starsan soak prior to first use.
quote:
Should I go ahead and buy new poppits and o rings for the kegs I plan to purchase?
I would. The old ones will eventually fail. Mine have and it's not worth the mess to find out that the poppets were getting worn out.
quote:
Is this the correct conversion kit? Good price and decent hardware or do I need something different?
So you have just a freezer/kegerator? What is included in the kegerator that you bought. Are the taps pre-drilled already and included? The kit you sent, looks like a kit to replace the keg posts, not poppets. Also looks like it is including your line connection pieces. I've never had to replace the posts and if you buy new or used, the posts themselves, should not have to be replaced.
If you have a picture of your setup, i can help you out on what you may need to ensure you are good to go.
ETA: just read through the description of the link you sent
quote:
If you have a kegerator that dispenses a commercial beer keg, with a 5/16" ID gas line and 3/16" or 1/4" ID beer line, this Kegerator Homebrew Conversion Kit includes everything you need to convert it to dispense ball lock home brew kegs.
So this kit is to convert a commercial or sanke keg, to a homebrew ball lock conry, type keg. I don't believe this is the setup you want.
LINK
This post was edited on 6/30/20 at 10:27 am
Posted on 6/30/20 at 12:42 pm to BugAC
The kegerator is a GE fridge that was set up for commercial kegs. It currently has 2 sanke connections, ss shanks, and perlick 630s that are already drilled and tapped. 
Posted on 6/30/20 at 12:58 pm to puffulufogous
Cut the commercial keg loose of the two tubes, keep the metal clamps, order the ball lock connections for the liquid and the gas with the barbed ends, and slide the tubes over the barbs with the clamps on and tighten. Or you could buy all new tubing which is really cheap.
Posted on 6/30/20 at 1:14 pm to BigPerm30
Earlier someone recommended switching for connections with a nut rather than worm clamps to make switching one back to sanke if needed a lot easier. Thoughts? Also are all qds the same or are some better than others?
Posted on 6/30/20 at 1:15 pm to puffulufogous
Can’t help you there. I’ve only used the barb connections. I’ve never had any issue with them.
Posted on 6/30/20 at 5:17 pm to puffulufogous
quote:
Earlier someone recommended switching for connections with a nut rather than worm clamps to make switching one back to sanke if needed a lot easier. Thoughts? Also are all qds the same or are some better than others?
I think you are referring to my post... I don't do it for ease between switching between sanke and ball lock, but because I think it makes cleaning my lines alot easier, especially my jumper lines going from fermentation keg to serving keg. It's really more beneficial for liquid lines too, not a huge benefit for gas lines since theoretically they shouldnt really need cleaning... The kit you posted isn't wrong, but it's got a few extra pieces in there that idk what they are for. Probably not necessary. I'd just order from Amazon or at your LHBS. If you've got the lines already, you should just need 1 barb, 1 nut, the fasteners for each (which you might already have), and a liquid ball-lock QD, and a gas ball-lock QD... I can try to take pictures this evening of my set-up, if I remember.
This post was edited on 6/30/20 at 6:59 pm
Posted on 7/6/20 at 10:42 pm to GeauxPack81
So my NEIPA was brewed a month ago. I used Idaho 7 and Azacca. It had a great nose and fruity taste. I just took a sample and all of the hop flavor is gone. Not a trace of hops left. I did a closed transfer and there is zero evidence of oxidation. I’ve got about 2 gallons left in the keg. I had 4oz at whirlpool and 10oz of dry hops at about day 3. What gives and can I throw some hops in the keg to revive it?
Posted on 7/7/20 at 6:34 am to BigPerm30
No sense of taste? You have covid. RIP.
Won't help with flavor. Will help with aroma. I'd suggest the next batch doing a 15 minute addition for flavoring. You really need some boil to get those hop flavor compounds bound to the beer. For some reason a lot of the NEIPA recipes have gotten away from flavor hop additions and instead prefer massive late additions.
quote:
What gives and can I throw some hops in the keg to revive it?
Won't help with flavor. Will help with aroma. I'd suggest the next batch doing a 15 minute addition for flavoring. You really need some boil to get those hop flavor compounds bound to the beer. For some reason a lot of the NEIPA recipes have gotten away from flavor hop additions and instead prefer massive late additions.
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