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Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
28833 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

My only question, is why whole beans and not ground beans? Doesn't extraction happen faster and more efficiently when the beans are ground?





Good question....I can't give you a good answer. But I brewed my third coffee stout this winter and for the first time used whole beans. It was hands down the best coffee stout I've brewed. So I am sold on whole beans.

ETA: I remember before my first coffee stout Ale Runner told me to use whole beans but I ignored him.
This post was edited on 6/27 at 2:10 pm


BottomlandBrew
LSU Fan
Member since Aug 2010
21187 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
I concur. I've done both cold brewed and whole beans (per Bmoney's recipe), and whole beans was by far better.

Might go without saying, but make it a high quality, freshly roasted bean.


puffulufogous
USA Fan
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
6140 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Dropper with the thorough write up pretty much crushing it. By all means, trust bottomland, Zappa, and dropper on the whole bean rec. My recommendation on cold brew concentrate was entirely based on my experience with coffee rather than brewing coffee stouts. I have only ever brewed one stout much less multiple coffee variations.

Thinking about brewing a shandy kit from one of the online stores. Need something refreshing for August heat.


BottomlandBrew
LSU Fan
Member since Aug 2010
21187 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
I tapped a pale Brett tonight. Brewed last august. Pilsner base beer fermented with Oslo and then keg aged with Brett c. So funky. Let's admire the head on this.





BigPerm30
Chicago Cubs Fan
Member since Aug 2011
16916 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Is that bootleg Oslo Kveik? I have used it once and I didn’t have good results. They sent me another packet. What temp do you ferment at? When I tried it, it wouldn’t take off at 75 degrees. I had to use a heater to get it up to 90 before it did anything.


BugAC
USA Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Oct 2007
37221 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

tapped a pale Brett tonight. Brewed last august. Pilsner base beer fermented with Oslo and then keg aged with Brett c. So funky. Let's admire the head on this.


I’ve been hesitant to use kveik for anything because I don’t really know what startle it’s good for. Did you stagger pitch or pitch the kveik and Brett at the same time?


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rds dc
Colorado Fan
Member since Jun 2008
16044 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

Feel good to be back in the saddle?




Yea, it was nearly 3 yrs b/w brew days but I still have about 20 random bottles of homebrew left.

quote:

I'm brewing a saison Dupont clone tonight. All pils with a hochkurz mash at 147 and 162. EKG and saaz hops. Blend of 3724 and 565 for the yeast. 120 minute boil.


I eventually settled on a slow rise temp mash for my beers. Dough in around 90F and then slowly raise the temp over a two hour period with regular stirring. I was a bit worried with this new kettle but everything went fine and the stirring was a lot easier, since I had more water volume than in my old mash pot. I boiled for about 90 minutes to hit my volume but then ended up adding a gallon of distilled water. I hit 85% but did all my calculations on 75% (being conservative since 1st time using this setup) and am aiming for something closer to 5% ABV out of the bottle.

This is my first time using 3724. In the past I used my own yeast but wasn't sure about my current samples, given the time between brews. I'll build up starters with them and see what seems viable to use in the future.


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rds dc
Colorado Fan
Member since Jun 2008
16044 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

Beer 2 - Modified Jester King Noble King Clone - This was going to be a 5-6 gallon brett explosion. I'm going to go ahead and pitch the brett strains tonight and taste it in about 3-4 months and decide if i need to acidify, or if the brett strains i'm using will produce some slight acidity. If no acidity, i'll probably just blend with 1 gallon of a mixed ferm beer that's been aging.


Have you been pleased with adding Brett after primary? I know that some people aren't fans of doing that. I always added my Brett in primary for my mixed fermentation.


BottomlandBrew
LSU Fan
Member since Aug 2010
21187 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

Is that bootleg Oslo Kveik?


Yeah. I used it a few times last summer. I had good fermentations with it, albeit it wasn't my favorite flavor wise. The owner at Bootleg told me it will stall at less than 75. He says they run all of their batches at 85.

quote:

Did you stagger pitch or pitch the kveik and Brett at the same time?


Stagger pitch. I was curious what the brett would do with such a simple base beer, and it did great things.


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BugAC
USA Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Oct 2007
37221 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

Have you been pleased with adding Brett after primary? I know that some people aren't fans of doing that. I always added my Brett in primary for my mixed fermentation


So far yes. Sometimes I pitch at once, sometimes I stagger. Happy with both ways.


puffulufogous
USA Fan
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
6140 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
So I ended up picking up the fridge/freezer kegerator on Sunday for $250. Seller also included his cleaning supplies so I flushed the lines. AiH has refurb ball lock kegs for 38 and new ones for 75 right now. Any thoughts on new vs used? Should I go ahead and buy new poppits and o rings for the kegs I plan to purchase?

Is this the correct conversion kit? Good price and decent hardware or do I need something different?


LoneStarTiger
LSU Fan
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
14858 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

I am sold on whole beans.


this is the way


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BugAC
USA Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Oct 2007
37221 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

Seller also included his cleaning supplies so I flushed the lines.


Just replace the lines. They are cheap, and lines need to be replaced after every few brews anyway.

quote:

AiH has refurb ball lock kegs for 38 and new ones for 75 right now. Any thoughts on new vs used?


Used. No use in getting new ones, unless you just want a shiny new keg. All of my kegs are used, LA Homebrew does a pretty good job of cleaning them before purchase. I always give them a good PBW and Starsan soak prior to first use.

quote:

Should I go ahead and buy new poppits and o rings for the kegs I plan to purchase?


I would. The old ones will eventually fail. Mine have and it's not worth the mess to find out that the poppets were getting worn out.

quote:


Is this the correct conversion kit? Good price and decent hardware or do I need something different?



So you have just a freezer/kegerator? What is included in the kegerator that you bought. Are the taps pre-drilled already and included? The kit you sent, looks like a kit to replace the keg posts, not poppets. Also looks like it is including your line connection pieces. I've never had to replace the posts and if you buy new or used, the posts themselves, should not have to be replaced.

If you have a picture of your setup, i can help you out on what you may need to ensure you are good to go.

ETA: just read through the description of the link you sent

quote:

If you have a kegerator that dispenses a commercial beer keg, with a 5/16" ID gas line and 3/16" or 1/4" ID beer line, this Kegerator Homebrew Conversion Kit includes everything you need to convert it to dispense ball lock home brew kegs.


So this kit is to convert a commercial or sanke keg, to a homebrew ball lock conry, type keg. I don't believe this is the setup you want.

LINK
This post was edited on 6/30 at 10:27 am


puffulufogous
USA Fan
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
6140 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
The kegerator is a GE fridge that was set up for commercial kegs. It currently has 2 sanke connections, ss shanks, and perlick 630s that are already drilled and tapped.





BigPerm30
Chicago Cubs Fan
Member since Aug 2011
16916 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Cut the commercial keg loose of the two tubes, keep the metal clamps, order the ball lock connections for the liquid and the gas with the barbed ends, and slide the tubes over the barbs with the clamps on and tighten. Or you could buy all new tubing which is really cheap.


puffulufogous
USA Fan
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
6140 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Earlier someone recommended switching for connections with a nut rather than worm clamps to make switching one back to sanke if needed a lot easier. Thoughts? Also are all qds the same or are some better than others?


BigPerm30
Chicago Cubs Fan
Member since Aug 2011
16916 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Can’t help you there. I’ve only used the barb connections. I’ve never had any issue with them.


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GeauxPack81
California Fan
Member since Dec 2009
9784 posts

re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
quote:

Earlier someone recommended switching for connections with a nut rather than worm clamps to make switching one back to sanke if needed a lot easier. Thoughts? Also are all qds the same or are some better than others?

I think you are referring to my post... I don't do it for ease between switching between sanke and ball lock, but because I think it makes cleaning my lines alot easier, especially my jumper lines going from fermentation keg to serving keg. It's really more beneficial for liquid lines too, not a huge benefit for gas lines since theoretically they shouldnt really need cleaning... The kit you posted isn't wrong, but it's got a few extra pieces in there that idk what they are for. Probably not necessary. I'd just order from Amazon or at your LHBS. If you've got the lines already, you should just need 1 barb, 1 nut, the fasteners for each (which you might already have), and a liquid ball-lock QD, and a gas ball-lock QD... I can try to take pictures this evening of my set-up, if I remember.
This post was edited on 6/30 at 6:59 pm


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