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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II

Posted on 2/14/19 at 8:36 am to
Posted by GeauxPack81
Member since Dec 2009
10482 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 8:36 am to
I saw you mention previously that you used the liquid out post to fill your keg and reduce oxidation. How did you do that? Do you have pics of the setup?
Posted by puffulufogous
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
6373 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 8:41 am to
I thought co2 was heavier than o2? Also if it gets oxidized when I open the lid it's surely going to get oxidized when I rack it to the bottling bucket. Also, it's not my equipment and not at my house. It being my first brew I don't feel like it's my place to tell the guy how to avoid oxidizing a beer. Being a first time backseat Brewer didn't seem like the best way to make friends and influence people. I'm open to suggestions on how to hop without oxidizing though
This post was edited on 2/14/19 at 8:58 am
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
52788 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 9:00 am to
quote:

I saw you mention previously that you used the liquid out post to fill your keg and reduce oxidation. How did you do that? Do you have pics of the setup?


I don't have pics of my setup, but it was pretty simple.

I take a sterile siphon starter pictured below (you could probably use a standard transfer wand, but i like this one).



Attach your tubing like you normally do, but instead of dropping the tube in the keg, you connect the tube to your swivel nut that screws onto the liquid disconnect.

Swivel Nut


Liquid Disconnect


Just make sure you have your correct diameter hoses. When i was doing this, i first purged my empty keg and put a blanket of CO2 in the fermenter. Then i allowed a small amount of CO2 in the keg. Too much, and you overpressurize resulting in a stalled transfer. Occasionally i would see the beer slow down, so i would open the relief valve on the keg lid. Towards the end, as i was picking up more trub, i had the relief valve open the entire time. Remember, as the liquid level increases in your keg, the CO2 has nowhere to go but back up through the transfer tube, that's why you need to periodically open up the relief valve on the keg lid.

Pressure relief valve in center
This post was edited on 2/14/19 at 9:04 am
Posted by USEyourCURDS
Member since Apr 2016
12063 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 9:13 am to
I was just playing with him but you're right and he should be fine as long as active ferm is still taking place since the yeast will take care of the oxygen. As far as dry hops after ferm, I have read that it is not an issue on a larger scale system but on a small scale, I have read that the blanket is a myth and that CO2 and oxygen begin mixing fairly quickly (No firsthand knowledge, just what I read). Chances of oxidation seem greater from a lot of other brewing methods though. you might dry hop that way and 99/100 times your beer won't oxidize. Most NEIPAs are drank pretty fast to oxidize to noticeable effects anyway


Posted by GeauxPack81
Member since Dec 2009
10482 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 9:16 am to
Thanks. So you just use gravity really? That seems simple enough.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
52788 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 9:19 am to
quote:

So you just use gravity really? That seems simple enough.



It really is, and it cost me about $5 in additional parts.
Posted by BMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
16272 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 11:24 am to
quote:

I thought co2 was heavier than o2? Also if it gets oxidized when I open the lid it's surely going to get oxidized when I rack it to the bottling bucket. Also, it's not my equipment and not at my house. It being my first brew I don't feel like it's my place to tell the guy how to avoid oxidizing a beer. Being a first time backseat Brewer didn't seem like the best way to make friends and influence people. I'm open to suggestions on how to hop without oxidizing though


I was just being a smartass.

But yes, if you're bottling, this beer will get oxidized using a bottling bucket. I would plan to drink these as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do about it in that case, and this style is very prone to showing the effects of oxidation.

Doing the oxygen free transfer as described above (pushing from the carboy to a purged keg with CO2) is what I do. Even then, it's not truly oxygen free (gotta get the racking cane in the carboy somehow).

But I would definitely take steps to not expose your beer to the air very long. Have those hops measured out and ready to dump in and seal it back up when you add your next round of dry hops.
Posted by puffulufogous
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
6373 posts
Posted on 2/14/19 at 11:45 am to
Thanks for the pointers. It's my first beer and the other guys first neipa. We will be happy with it regardless, but we know it's not going to be perfect especially considering our equipment and inexperience.
Posted by Bleed P&G
New Orleans
Member since Aug 2003
2972 posts
Posted on 2/15/19 at 2:47 pm to
Question for the board.

I am brewing a NEIPA today. I have the following hops on hand:
8 oz Sabro
4 oz Medusa
4 oz El Dorado

Should I use the entire pound in a 5 gallon batch? Is that too much? I'm worried the beer might get grassy.

I am planning to use 2 oz Sabro, 1 oz Medusa and 1 oz El Dorado in the whirlpool. What should my dry hopping schedule look like?
Posted by Knuckle Checker
Member since Jan 2019
254 posts
Posted on 2/15/19 at 3:01 pm to
I would split up the rest into 2 doses. Add the first on Day 3 of fermentation and the second around day 7 or about 2 days before you are transferring to a keg.

I've had issues with NEIPAs with that much hops getting hop burn. Burning peppery sensation in the back of your throat. It's a sensation, you can feel it, not a flavor like "grassy".

Maybe somebody knows a solution for that. Most people say that it clears with time. I'm going to try to cold crash and fine with gelatin to see if that helps.

Are you dry hoping in bags or free?
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
52788 posts
Posted on 2/15/19 at 3:20 pm to
quote:

Should I use the entire pound in a 5 gallon batch?


I typically limit my hops to 12-14 oz., but that's in an attempt to see how few of hops i can get by with, without degrading flavor. So far, so good. I'll probably whittle down further as i continue brewing the recipe. But, to your question, i don't see any harm with it.

quote:

What should my dry hopping schedule look like?




It's up to you but i prefer the following, in general:

3-4 oz whirlpool at 160
3.5 -4 oz. bio trans hops (3 days into fermentation)
5 - 5.5 oz. dry hops
Posted by The Estimator
New Orleans
Member since Jul 2012
1648 posts
Posted on 2/17/19 at 11:48 am to
Bug, I just tasted a sample of my first long aged sour that was an extra gallon of Imperial Wit wort I had from November. I pitched Brett Clausenii and a bit of some GoodBelly Lacto Plantarum after about 2-3 weeks sitting on the Brett.

HOLY shite. It’s insane. It’s down to 1.010 and tastes like the most moderate level of Brett at the perfect level of acidity. Overripe tropical fruit funk with a moderate tartness. I’m so stoked!

Point being, I am humbly requesting we set up a time where you can come me help me bottle this because I am a sour noob and haven’t bottled significantly in almost 2 years. The more recent brews I’ve pulled a gallon off for bottling have turned out under/overcarbed and I don’t want to mess this one up.

There will be some calculations with how much more the Brett can eat through after 1.010 and how much I can prime it in order to not overcarb and imo ruin the beer.

Posted by USEyourCURDS
Member since Apr 2016
12063 posts
Posted on 2/17/19 at 12:18 pm to
Carbed up a 1 gallon test batch of that Perrier water profile. It is legit.

Added some simple sizzurp, luxardo cherry sizzurp and some lime. My stomach has been knotted this morning. This is loosening things up a bit!
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
52788 posts
Posted on 2/18/19 at 7:29 am to
quote:

Bug, I just tasted a sample of my first long aged sour that was an extra gallon of Imperial Wit wort I had from November. I pitched Brett Clausenii and a bit of some GoodBelly Lacto Plantarum after about 2-3 weeks sitting on the Brett.

HOLY shite. It’s insane. It’s down to 1.010 and tastes like the most moderate level of Brett at the perfect level of acidity. Overripe tropical fruit funk with a moderate tartness. I’m so stoked!


Nice! I've never used carton'd probiotics for my sours, but i hear they work great.

quote:

Point being, I am humbly requesting we set up a time where you can come me help me bottle this because I am a sour noob and haven’t bottled significantly in almost 2 years. The more recent brews I’ve pulled a gallon off for bottling have turned out under/overcarbed and I don’t want to mess this one up.

There will be some calculations with how much more the Brett can eat through after 1.010 and how much I can prime it in order to not overcarb and imo ruin the beer.


A few questions:

1) How long has it been in the fermenter?
2) What are you fermenting in?
3) What's your OG/FG?
4) Do you have CO2 setup/ Kegerator?
5) Do you have the right bottles? If not, i have more than enough belgian type bottles.
6) Do you want to bottle with Brett or Champagne/wine yeast? Or do you want to store it long term and naturally carbonate with whatever active yeast is left?

If you are perfectly happy with the beer as is, i'd recommend champagne yeast (lalvin EC-1118). If you want a tad more brett character, but also want to see the beer change in the bottle, then bottling with Brett is the way to go. However, you'll have to resist the urge to drink all of your beer, and reserve a few for drinking several months to a year from now. The changes the beer goes through is really fun.

I'm more than willing to help you, but as far as me getting some free time to come to NOLA to help you bottle, it may be awhile. I have a few work trips scheduled over the next few weeks, so my availability is unknown.

As far as my bottling is concerned, i have a blichmann beergun that i use solely for bottling uncarbonated mixed ferm sours. I need to check my notes back home, but i think i typically bottle sours anywhere from 2.3 - 2.5 volumes of CO2. My process is i get the appropriate amount of carbing sugar. Pour that into a keg. I then purge the keg with CO2. I then rack my sour beer into the keg. I give it a very light swirl. Then i hook up the beergun and bottle that way.

Shoot me an email address and we can talk about meeting up.
Posted by CarRamrod
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
57442 posts
Posted on 2/18/19 at 10:19 am to
i installed a 50amp 240v outlet in my garage this weekend! Now to actually build my electic system.
This post was edited on 2/18/19 at 10:21 am
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
52788 posts
Posted on 2/18/19 at 10:49 am to
quote:

i installed a 50amp 240v outlet in my garage this weekend! Now to actually build my electic system.




Nice. We are in the process of finalizing plans to build a new house, and one of the things i asked for was a 240 in the garage. I was trying to decide between the garage and outdoor kitchen, but i've decided my brewing will take place in the garage. Too much equipment would have to be moved around if i brewed in the proposed outdoor kitchen.
This post was edited on 2/18/19 at 10:51 am
Posted by CarRamrod
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
57442 posts
Posted on 2/18/19 at 11:06 am to
dude put an outlet at both places...... i got this panel that is GFCI protected. it cost the same as a 50 amp GFCI breaker. LINK

And i have switched up my plans a bit AGAIN. Now im thinking of going to a 2 vessel direct sparging system, if i think i can figure out the flow control of the direct sparging. I know that BIAB will be really nice bit i think i will miss sparging.
This post was edited on 2/18/19 at 12:20 pm
Posted by USEyourCURDS
Member since Apr 2016
12063 posts
Posted on 2/19/19 at 12:43 pm to
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
52788 posts
Posted on 2/19/19 at 12:48 pm to
Strangely enough, i read a post about this on a facebook group last week. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
Posted by GeauxPack81
Member since Dec 2009
10482 posts
Posted on 2/19/19 at 2:00 pm to
I just saw that on reddit.... He kept trying to defend himself too. Had to be a troll


On a side note, homebrewing is not for the impatient. I am dying to keg my beer, but I know I should probably give it another week to ferment.
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