The 2021 Garden Thread

Welcome to the 2021 garden thread.

I’d like to start out by providing you with some resources. Many I still use, some not so much anymore. But they were helpful to me at some point regardless. If you have any to add, please let me know and I’ll update the OP.

Gardening info/learning:
Home Gardening Certificate Course
LSU AgCenter Main Page
LSU AgCenter Vegetable Planting Guide
Growveg.com
Davesgarden.com
Seedsavers Exchange learning page
Epic gardening raised bed plans
Companion Planting Guide

I personally use the LSU AgCenter website and planting guide almost religiously. Davesgarden.com is really useful for their watchdog section which gathers ratings on different seed companies and nurseries. And the Seedsavers learning page is a very easy to use website that is great for beginners. It’s streamlined and very easy to understand.

Seed/plant websites:
Harris Seeds
Park Seed
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (rareseeds.com)
Reimer seeds
Gurney’s
Migardener.com

I would definitely recommend the first 3 listed. Have never had any issues with orders from them. Reimer, on the other hand, has on more than one occasion sent me mislabeled/wrong product. I’ve also had some seeds with 0% germination. However, they have an extremely large selection, so they may be worth the gamble for some harder to find varieties. I’ve never used Gurney’s, but haven’t heard anything bad about them.

Once again, if you recommend any other resources please let me know and I’ll add them.

Happy growing.

ETA: Figured I’d add in a few things about disease and pest management.

Organic disease and pest management:

Neem Oil
I’ve been using neem oil for a long time. It has insecticidal and fungicidal properties. Maybe even some anti bacterial properties. For the full benefits it is recommended to use “cold pressed” neem oil mixed with an emulsifier (castile soap is what I use). Products that come “ready to use” usually are already emulsified and are produced in a way that reduces the amount of azadirachtin. Azadirachtin's primary mode of action is an anti-feedant, but it can also disrupt growth cycles, sterilize adults, and deter egg laying.

Liquid Copper
Liquid copper is a broad-spectrum fungicide and bactericide. It works by coating the plant surface and reacting with moisture. This releases copper ions that kill bacteria and fungal spores. As with pretty much all fungicides, it is a preventative and will not “cure” existing infections. But it helps prevent spread. It works very well, but read labels carefully. Too much can be toxic to plants, and excess can build up in the soil.

Pyrethrin
Pyrethrin is naturally derived from chrysanthemum flowers. It is a contact insecticide with a very short residual.

quote:

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Pyrethrin affects an insect’s nervous system through a deadly toxic effect. Almost immediately upon contact with this compound, the insect dies from a form of paralysis. This effect is what makes pyrethrin a highly effective insecticide.

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I’ve used a brand called Pyganic for a couple years and it works extremely well. Even kills stink bugs and leaf-footed bugs when used at the higher end of recommended concentration.

Spinosad
Another organic insecticide. I’ve never used it because there are claims that it can be harmful to beneficial insects as well as the bad ones. So I’ve never really taken the chance on it. And never really needed to. But it’s apparently extremely effective and targets many insects and caterpillars.

Thuricide
Very effective at killing caterpillars. The way it works is pretty brutal. The caterpillars eat it. Their high pH stomach breaks down the crystal bond releasing the bacterial spores. These bind to their intestines and cause tears. This causes them to become septic and die. I’ve used this stuff for years with great results. Many people get impatient with it because they expect immediate results. But the caterpillars usually take a few days to die. Good news is they do stop eating only hours after ingesting it. I find it a better long term solution to controlling caterpillars as opposed to contact poisons.

Hydrogen Peroxide
Since peroxide breaks down into just water and oxygen, it is considered organic in the garden. This is one of those things I wish I would’ve known about a long time ago. It is extremely cheap and effective. I use it as a fungal preventative during and after prolonged wet periods. As a foliar spray, and a root drench. Foliar application helps prevent fungal and bacterial diseases from taking hold, and a root drench prevents root rot and provides oxygen to the root zone.
Hydrogen Peroxide mixing chart for garden use
In the link above, I use the first chart when spraying as a preventative. If fungal disease does take hold, I mix using the second chart. I have successfully nursed really sickly plants back to health using peroxide. I am a firm believer in this stuff. Be careful when mixing. Make sure you know the percentage and mix accordingly. Most of the ones sold in stores are 3%.


Non-organic disease and pest management:

I won’t spend too much time on discussing how most non-organic methods work. Because it is pretty obvious that most of them are synthetic based chemicals that pretty much achieve the same result as the organic methods. Synthetics usually have longer residuals and are often times more effective because of it. I certainly don’t judge anyone for using non-organic methods. I use them occasionally as a last resort if organic methods are not enough. But I try to avoid them as much as possible.

Fungicides:
Daconil
Mancozeb

Insecticides:
Bonide Eight (permethrin)
Sevin dust