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Started By
Message
22 hp Kawasaki,Scag mower using oil.
Posted on 8/11/25 at 9:52 pm
Posted on 8/11/25 at 9:52 pm
Mower with 535 hours,since it hit 500 hrs is using 16 Oz oil after 4 hrs runtime.Manual says capacity is 1.9 qts so it’s using about 25% of oil capacity.
Only thing I know of that would cause that is bad rings but I don’t see any smoke.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic.
Starts fine,runs fine and seems to have as much power as it always had.
Definitely not leaking,shop has concrete floor.
Only thing I know of that would cause that is bad rings but I don’t see any smoke.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic.
Starts fine,runs fine and seems to have as much power as it always had.
Definitely not leaking,shop has concrete floor.
7
Posted on 8/11/25 at 10:51 pm to LSUA 75
Small leak could be leaking under pressure/load, which you wouldn't see dripping on the concrete floor in storage.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 7:11 am to LSUA 75
What viscosity oil do you use? I was told by local shop they put 20w-50 in all there mowers. Kawasaki’s and Kolhers
Posted on 8/12/25 at 8:28 am to LSUSports247
quote:
old by local shop they put 20w-50 in all there mowers. Kawasaki’s and Kolhers
That is as likely to increase oil consumption as it is to reduce it. Cold oil pressure is going to be REALLY high with that and greatly accelerate wear, and doing stuff like that might well be what OP's problem is right now.
5w-40 multi-fuel HDEO is the easy button for air cooled engine oil without nerding out on anything. Always good to try that if there's a consumption issue. It won't fix anything but might reduce it to a more palatable number.
An undetected leak is the most likely issue, where it is only leaking under load.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:12 am to LSUA 75
I have a Kawasaki with ~350ish hours and it's burned oil since 200hrs. Just add before every cut.
Mine smokes, however. It'll also foul the right plug occassionally. I think it needs a valve adjustment, but I haven't found a youtube video in order for me to attempt it.
Mine smokes, however. It'll also foul the right plug occassionally. I think it needs a valve adjustment, but I haven't found a youtube video in order for me to attempt it.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:12 am to LSUA 75
double post, computer hiccup.
This post was edited on 8/12/25 at 10:13 am
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:17 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
That is as likely to increase oil consumption as it is to reduce it. Cold oil pressure is going to be REALLY high with that and greatly accelerate wear, and doing stuff like that might well be what OP's problem is right now.
Not in this case, Kawasaki recommends 10W-40 or 20W-50 for their OPE engines in higher ambient temps. Not only that, Kawasaki's own high-zinc oil is probably the best so running an automotive engine oil, even a HDEO, is not recommended for them (Kohler has similar guidlines for their bigger OPE engines). I found this info out when I was looking into Kawasaki engines for a possible re-power engine at some point.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 11:14 am to Clames
Well, I will shut up about what oil to use then.
Sticking with the original theory - leaking under load.
Sticking with the original theory - leaking under load.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 11:53 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Maybe a valve seal, could be burning oil and not smoking enough to noticeably see it. Had that with another mower, couldn't see the faint blueish plume unless just in the right light. Could be a combination of things, air-cooled engines can bleed off oil volume simple through the crankcase breather through volatility. I would pull the air filter and check the breather tube too. Dirty air filter will pull more vacuum on the breather tube too.
This post was edited on 8/12/25 at 11:55 am
Posted on 8/12/25 at 12:02 pm to LSUA 75
Shaft seal leaking and landing on deck. Check for oil under the machine. Does your electric clutch slip?
Posted on 8/12/25 at 12:18 pm to LSUA 75
is it blowing smoke? Mine was a leaking head gasket.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 4:04 pm to tiger94gop
Electric clutch doesn’t slip.
I’m using 10 W 40.
I think I’ll put a piece of plywood under,run motor full RPM’s and see if it’s losing oil under load.
I’m using 10 W 40.
I think I’ll put a piece of plywood under,run motor full RPM’s and see if it’s losing oil under load.
Posted on 8/12/25 at 4:10 pm to LSUA 75
Air filter is clean,I blow it out frequently.
I don’t know where breather tube is or even what it looks like.
I’ll do some research and find out what it looks like.
My mechanical knowledge is pretty limited.
I’m goin to get some Kawasaki high zinc oil also.
I don’t know where breather tube is or even what it looks like.
I’ll do some research and find out what it looks like.
My mechanical knowledge is pretty limited.
I’m goin to get some Kawasaki high zinc oil also.
This post was edited on 8/12/25 at 4:14 pm
Posted on 8/13/25 at 12:44 am to LSUA 75
I would pull the spark plugs and see what they look like. If it is burning that much oil, you should see some raw oil or a good bet of ash on the plugs.
It is either burning or leaking with that amount of oil going missing. If it is not showing up on the plugs, it is leaking.
A further troubleshooting measure would be to check the compression on each cylinder while you have the plugs out….but most people don’t have access to a compression gauge.
It is either burning or leaking with that amount of oil going missing. If it is not showing up on the plugs, it is leaking.
A further troubleshooting measure would be to check the compression on each cylinder while you have the plugs out….but most people don’t have access to a compression gauge.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 4:49 am to slacker130
Not to highjack the thread but...
There is a video out there for that. I wouldn't wait to long or you will at best be replacing some broken pushrods and guides...no need to ask me how I know. I had to do it on a Generac engine but the basic process is the same and it wasn't hard at all.
quote:
I think it needs a valve adjustment, but I haven't found a youtube video in order for me to attempt it.
There is a video out there for that. I wouldn't wait to long or you will at best be replacing some broken pushrods and guides...no need to ask me how I know. I had to do it on a Generac engine but the basic process is the same and it wasn't hard at all.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 4:07 pm to trident
quote:
it blowing smoke? Mine was a leaking head gasket.
Was told yesterday by a dealer,that the Kawasaki engine has a habit of the head gasket going out after about 500 hrs.
Posted on 8/15/25 at 9:02 pm to Clames
quote:
Kawasaki's own high-zinc oil is probably the best so running an automotive engine oil, even a HDEO, is not recommended for them
Kawi oil isn't even that high in zinc. T6 5w40 is higher.
Where the kawi oil shines is typically calcium... Which thankfully seems to be disappearing as an over pumped additive.
OP, run valvoline vr1 for a cycle and report back.
My scag has had nothing but 15w40 rotella since day one. No smoke. A lot more than 500 hours.
My briggs has had nothing but mobil1 0w40 since day one... No smoke and a lot more than 500 hours.
I add about a half teaspoon of tungsten disulfide powder every oil chance. It is smaller particles than the oil filter can even filter.
Posted on 8/15/25 at 11:17 pm to Ncook
20w50. Regular or full syn. One just has more moly. The other more zinc.
Posted on 8/15/25 at 11:58 pm to X123F45
I add about a half teaspoon of tungsten disulfide powder every oil chance"
What does this "do" for the engine?
What does this "do" for the engine?
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