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Started By
Message
Want to build pier in my farm pond
Posted on 4/15/25 at 9:18 pm
Posted on 4/15/25 at 9:18 pm
But can’t seem to find any clear “blueprints” online. Nothing fancy, 35’-40’ long, 4’ wide with T at the end. Anyone have advice or can direct me to a online construction details?
Posted on 4/15/25 at 9:33 pm to rlp
I don’t know about a farm pond but I built a floating T shaped pier on my pond. The end is 12’x8’ framed out with 2x6’s and the walkway is 6” Cee perlings. Plastic drums are between the 2x6’s at the end and the cee perlings down the walkway.
I can post pics tomorrow
BTW, I had maybe $500 in the whole thing. Bought the drums $10 ea on marketplace, two cee perlings from metal supply store around $100, and lumber was around $300
I can post pics tomorrow
BTW, I had maybe $500 in the whole thing. Bought the drums $10 ea on marketplace, two cee perlings from metal supply store around $100, and lumber was around $300
This post was edited on 4/16/25 at 8:42 am
Posted on 4/15/25 at 9:55 pm to rlp
4’ seems kind of narrow. Maybe go about 6’?
Posted on 4/15/25 at 10:53 pm to rlp
If you can't draw your own plans for something this simple, the job may be more difficult than you're capable of doing. It's just 3 joist run on top of a pair of subs strung between poles. At your desired width and pond environment 2x6 would work as subframing and if you keep the poles under 10' center to center, 2x8 joists would work... unless you wanted to use 5/4 or a composite like trex, then 4 joists would become a better idea.
If you're using the dock poles for hand railing, joists inside the poles... if you're running no poles above deck level the exterior joists go on the outside of the pole. If you want to add 4x hand railing later, double up your exterior joists, as 1.5 inches is pretty damn flimsy to support a falling person.
If you're using the dock poles for hand railing, joists inside the poles... if you're running no poles above deck level the exterior joists go on the outside of the pole. If you want to add 4x hand railing later, double up your exterior joists, as 1.5 inches is pretty damn flimsy to support a falling person.
Posted on 4/15/25 at 11:12 pm to MoarKilometers
Ok. And how are driving the piling?
Posted on 4/15/25 at 11:26 pm to Mouth
quote:
And how are driving the piling?
Jetting them with a pump and rod seems to be the popular method

Posted on 4/16/25 at 12:45 am to rlp
I design ponds, lakes and docks. I recommend a floating dock for many reasons, including it will always be 2’ or so above the fluctuating water level, and posts can penetrate your clay blanket and cause leaks, and the dock floats will last longer than wood posts.
Dockbuilders.com
They will design your floats and sell you the floats and hardware. You supply the framing and decking and I highly recommend synthetic deck boards. Whatever you do, don’t use treated 5/4 deck boards. If you use wood decking, use 2x6 treated for ground contact.
Dockbuilders.com
They will design your floats and sell you the floats and hardware. You supply the framing and decking and I highly recommend synthetic deck boards. Whatever you do, don’t use treated 5/4 deck boards. If you use wood decking, use 2x6 treated for ground contact.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 8:12 am to rlp
I've built two docks, one was a platform on a pond and another was a 100' walkway to a platform on a lake. The piers were mostly already there on the lake, but I did have to drive a few more for additional support.
I'll just say that without proper equipment, it's insanely difficult to build a dock. On the lake dock, we were shuttling ladders around in the water, welding standing in the water (stupid and dangerous) moving heavy steel around in the water. The process was just stupid slow and way harder than it needed to be. It honestly made me want to build a barge and go into the business.
We ended up spending about $6,000 in materials to take the dock down to the piers and reconstruct it. The quote I got was around $45,000 for what we did.
I'll just say that without proper equipment, it's insanely difficult to build a dock. On the lake dock, we were shuttling ladders around in the water, welding standing in the water (stupid and dangerous) moving heavy steel around in the water. The process was just stupid slow and way harder than it needed to be. It honestly made me want to build a barge and go into the business.
We ended up spending about $6,000 in materials to take the dock down to the piers and reconstruct it. The quote I got was around $45,000 for what we did.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 10:46 am to rlp
Home Depot has some floating boat docks on their website.That’s what I’m planning to buy for our pond.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 11:00 am to PlaySomeHonk
quote:
use 2x6 treated for ground contact.
Use cca treated wood at 0.60, not the bogus 0.15 mca shite you'd find at lowes or depot.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 11:14 am to rlp
NASCAR fan used an old pallet for his pier, and had lumber left over
Posted on 4/16/25 at 8:17 pm to rlp
Thanks for the advice! I will update with some pics when I get ‘er done.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 10:20 am to rlp
I was thinking the same thing. Was heading in the direction of getting an old pontoon boat.
Then building a floating walkway.
Some 2 inch pipe at the corners and along the walk way to hold in place w brackets so the whole thing could slide up and down the pipe as needed.
Easy to drive and for a pond, I think would work well.
Then building a floating walkway.
Some 2 inch pipe at the corners and along the walk way to hold in place w brackets so the whole thing could slide up and down the pipe as needed.
Easy to drive and for a pond, I think would work well.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 4:27 pm to MoarKilometers
Yes. Not rocket science even before the internet. Hard part is hammering in the support posts and keeping them level. But more sweat then thought required.
Posted on 4/18/25 at 11:50 am to Jack Daniel
quote:
Plastic drums are between the 2x6’s at the end and the cee perlings down the walkway.
I've always wondered about plastic 55 gallon drums as dock flotation. Figure it would be wise to use a good sealant around the threads of the bungs.
It seems like a super cheap method of floating a dock/pier. I just wonder about longevity.
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