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Truck heater not heating
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:07 am
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:07 am
My 2010 F150 isn’t heating. AC works fine but heater blows cold too.
How big of fix is this? Costly?
How big of fix is this? Costly?
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:10 am to King of New Orleans
Probably a blend motor under the dash, I believe they are behind the glove box in that model.
Check the Coolant level to rule that out.
ETA- If it is the blend motor, cost is like $40 for the motor, and if you know how to use a screw driver about 30 minutes of your time.
Check the Coolant level to rule that out.
ETA- If it is the blend motor, cost is like $40 for the motor, and if you know how to use a screw driver about 30 minutes of your time.
This post was edited on 1/7/25 at 8:14 am
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:11 am to jpainter6174
quote:
Probably a blend motor under the dash, I believe they are behind the glove box in that model.
Was about to post the same thing, I think it will throw a code, but unsure of that.
Costs to get it repaired can vary, as some will say the whole dash needs to come out first. Part is inexpensive.
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:11 am to King of New Orleans
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:13 am to King of New Orleans
probably a stuck thermostat, takes about five minutes to change, at least that's how I fixed the heater in my '71 LTD
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:17 am to King of New Orleans
quote:Just use the A/C.
My 2010 F150 isn’t heating. AC works fine but heater blows cold too.
Happiness in life is managing expectations.
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:21 am to King of New Orleans
First check your coolant levels. That's the easiest fix. Then it could be a thermostat, bad heater core or faulty blend door.
All the parts are fairly cheap. Fortunately the dash doesn't need to come out if you need to replace the heater core or blend door. You can access them blend door actuator and heater core by removing the glove box, if someone tells you they need to remove the dash on a 2010 they're gouging you. You do have to drain the coolant if it's the heater core, that can be a pain in the arse if you don't have garage space and time.
All the parts are fairly cheap. Fortunately the dash doesn't need to come out if you need to replace the heater core or blend door. You can access them blend door actuator and heater core by removing the glove box, if someone tells you they need to remove the dash on a 2010 they're gouging you. You do have to drain the coolant if it's the heater core, that can be a pain in the arse if you don't have garage space and time.
This post was edited on 1/7/25 at 8:23 am
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:23 am to King of New Orleans
Just at had the same issue. It was a leaky hose that moves the coolant.
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:24 am to King of New Orleans
After your truck is warmed up, grab your heaters hoses and see if they are getting warm/hot. That way you could at least eliminate if your low on engine coolant reaching your core or if one hose is warm but other is not, might have a stopped up heater core with junk in it. Course of action would be to flush it out. If both hoses are getting hot, next step would be worrying about temp blend actuator behind dash.
You heater hoses are normally the two black rubber hoses going into the firewall/backside of your dash on the pass side of your truck when you open the hood.
You heater hoses are normally the two black rubber hoses going into the firewall/backside of your dash on the pass side of your truck when you open the hood.
This post was edited on 1/7/25 at 8:41 am
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:36 am to Pirate0714
As Pirate said
If the coolant is full and they are both cold then the thermostat is stuck and needs replaced.
If one is hot and one is cold then the heater core is clogged.
If both are hot then the blend door actuator has gone bad.
If coolant is low then most likely the heater core has failed.
The heating system is a fairly simple one with it using heat from the coolant system to provide heat. The only issue is busting knuckles and reclaiming fluid getting the heater core swapped if that's the culprit.
quote:
rab your heaters hoses and see if they are getting warm/hot, heater hoses are normally the tow black rubber hoses going into the firewall/backside of your dash on the pass side of your truck when you open the hood
If the coolant is full and they are both cold then the thermostat is stuck and needs replaced.
If one is hot and one is cold then the heater core is clogged.
If both are hot then the blend door actuator has gone bad.
If coolant is low then most likely the heater core has failed.
The heating system is a fairly simple one with it using heat from the coolant system to provide heat. The only issue is busting knuckles and reclaiming fluid getting the heater core swapped if that's the culprit.
Posted on 1/7/25 at 8:50 am to Pirate0714
Solid advice.
I just flushed a heater core clogged with stop leak. People don't think about all the bad stuff fixes in a can do.
I just flushed a heater core clogged with stop leak. People don't think about all the bad stuff fixes in a can do.
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:31 am to Pirate0714
Hijack… help me OT mechanics.
2015 jeep wrangler jk. Only when the air temp is below freezing. Driving along and the engine throttle warning light comes on, engine temp gauge goes to zero, radiator fan kinks on to high. There is no visible change in my engine performance. I turn it off and it all resets and I go about my way.
In a 20 minute drive to work it may happen 2 or 3 times. Most of the time it’s after de acceleration but once it happened while cruising in a straight away.
I replaced my engine coolant temp sensor as my research said it was most common issue and did not work. ChatGPT says wiring issue. I’ve visible inspection exposed wiring and connectors finding nothing.
Where do I go from here? Thermostat, throttle body, is there another sensor?
Insert jeep joke here
Edit: my heat is not as warm as it used to be to be in this frigid cold but that may have nothing to do with it. The thread title caught my eye though
2015 jeep wrangler jk. Only when the air temp is below freezing. Driving along and the engine throttle warning light comes on, engine temp gauge goes to zero, radiator fan kinks on to high. There is no visible change in my engine performance. I turn it off and it all resets and I go about my way.
In a 20 minute drive to work it may happen 2 or 3 times. Most of the time it’s after de acceleration but once it happened while cruising in a straight away.
I replaced my engine coolant temp sensor as my research said it was most common issue and did not work. ChatGPT says wiring issue. I’ve visible inspection exposed wiring and connectors finding nothing.
Where do I go from here? Thermostat, throttle body, is there another sensor?
Insert jeep joke here
Edit: my heat is not as warm as it used to be to be in this frigid cold but that may have nothing to do with it. The thread title caught my eye though
This post was edited on 1/7/25 at 9:34 am
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:41 am to MSUmtowndawg
quote:I would think that the culprit would most likely be the intake air sensor if it was throwing the throttle light. It only starting to act up during cold weather would also make me think it could possibly be something with the charging system. Battery or alternator giving signs of imminent failure. May be someone with more insight into the Jeep systems, but that would be where I would be immediately drawn would be the charging system first and then the sensors in direct correlation with the intake/throttle system. No codes being thrown just intermittent throttle light?
engine coolant temp sensor
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:49 am to King of New Orleans
As someone else said, most likely the blend motor. Relatively cheap part and easy fix. You will have to remove the radio and AC control console. I recommend removing the glove box, too. A right-angle screw driver will be your friend because the angle is really tight and tricky.
Replaced the one in my son's truck back in the summer.
ETA: they sometimes make a click-click sound when switching between temperature and fan speed settings. That's because the gears are vinyl and when the damper is stuck the skip.
Here you go: Dorman 604-252 HVAC Blend Door Actuator Compatible with Select Ford / Lincoln Models $18
Replaced the one in my son's truck back in the summer.
ETA: they sometimes make a click-click sound when switching between temperature and fan speed settings. That's because the gears are vinyl and when the damper is stuck the skip.
Here you go: Dorman 604-252 HVAC Blend Door Actuator Compatible with Select Ford / Lincoln Models $18
This post was edited on 1/7/25 at 9:53 am
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:50 am to King of New Orleans
My 2016 was doing this and when I checked it turned out my coolant was low. Topped it off and now it’s working fine. Worth a check
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:51 am to AwesomeSauce
Well I forgot info. I have had a check engine light and the code has been P0128 - engine coolant temp is below thermostat regulating temp. Had this for 3 years now. Couldn’t get it to clear. My engine temp on the dash gauge is always around 190 F where I read that keeps should be in the 200-215 range.
Could the thermostat be stuck open or open further than designed when it does?
Could the thermostat be stuck open or open further than designed when it does?
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:56 am to MSUmtowndawg
I was almost in the middle of typing out replace your thermostat first. Make sure you use an OE for this. Not sure why, but Jeep gets finicky with me on after market thermostats.
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:58 am to MSUmtowndawg
quote:found your problem
jeep wrangler
Posted on 1/7/25 at 9:58 am to MSUmtowndawg
quote:Very likely, I thought the JK's in that range were typically 205-220. Next time you cold start pop the hood and feel the top radiator hose. If you can feel flow or a temp change then the thermostat is stuck open and needs replaced. Not sure that would have any effect on the throttle warning, but then again I have no clue on the wiring on that vehicle and what all sensors work to trigger it.
Could the thermostat be stuck open or open further than designed when it does?
Posted on 1/7/25 at 10:10 am to AwesomeSauce
Thanks to you and Pirate. I think I’m going to test/swap the thermostat. All of this kinda clicked as I talked it out. It’s running cooler than normal and throws the error in extreme cold. I bet the thermostat spring is bad/weak and when it opens, it fully opens instead of slightly based on sensor readings.
Turning the car off may allow it to close to the proper position based on temp? Basically resetting the condition
Turning the car off may allow it to close to the proper position based on temp? Basically resetting the condition
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