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Posted on 7/26/22 at 12:42 am to 0x15E
I don't trust the additives in the high mileage oils. Like someone said, they are supposed to help the rubber gaskets and maintain seals or some shite. It probably does help in the beginning, but in my opinion, based on other people's opinions, the additives may not be good for the rubber in the long run. I put that shite in my old truck, but based on what I read, I wish I didn't do it. I would just buy full synthetic if I had the same choice today.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 6:22 am to 0x15E
Just change your earl every 3-5k miles.
Buy brand-name earl.
Buy brand-name earl.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 6:27 am to 0x15E
I’m no expert but I always thought full synthetic was good for your motor. I care more about that than getting an extra 500 miles out of it vs blend.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:21 am to Oates Mustache
quote:
They need to work on their marketing. The names are kind of odd
quote:
hotshot’s secret
The name is in reference to the hotshot part of the logistics industry.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:26 am to DMAN1968
The other guys (excluding amsoil, hotshots secret, and redline) use class 3 in combination with class 2.
You can use whatever makes you feel good, I’m not hating on you or anyone else who is a die hard fan of certain oils. I am just telling you my experience and what we’ve seen when we send our oils off for analysis.
You can use whatever makes you feel good, I’m not hating on you or anyone else who is a die hard fan of certain oils. I am just telling you my experience and what we’ve seen when we send our oils off for analysis.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:30 am to jnethe1
Amsoil is a true synthetic oil. Mobile-1 and the other oils you find at autozone that say "full synthetic" are actually a blend of synthetic and conventional oil. That's why you can get 20-25k miles out of amsoil and not the "full synthetic" brands.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:41 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
Amsoil is a true synthetic oil. Mobile-1 and the other oils you find at autozone that say "full synthetic" are actually a blend of synthetic and conventional oil. That's why you can get 20-25k miles out of amsoil and not the "full synthetic" brands.
Exactly.
In our tractors (mostly kenworths with the isx Cummins), we got an additional 10,000-12,000 miles before needing to change them as compared to the t6 we had been using.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:55 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
That's why you can get 20-25k miles out of amsoil and not the "full synthetic" brands.
One of the main functions of oil is to suspend contaminates.
Regardless of lubrication properties, it is hard for me to believe that a certain volume of oil can 'suspend contaminates' for 20K and have superior properties over an oil changed every 5K. Detergents are put in oil to keep the engine clean. That's why your used oil should look black if it's doing the job properly. Oil has a saturation point. Imagine what would happen to an engine with a small coolant leak over 20K miles compared to 5K.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:59 am to 0x15E
Don't recommend it, especially at only 100k miles and no issues.
As others have said, read up on bobistheoilguy if you want to nerd out on what the best oil for a given application is.
As others have said, read up on bobistheoilguy if you want to nerd out on what the best oil for a given application is.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 1:19 pm to turnpiketiger
quote:
I’m no expert but I always thought full synthetic was good for your motor.
Speaking of synthetic, does anyone remember that BelRay Synthetic Racing Lube for 2 cycle motorcrossers in the late 70s/early 80's?
That had a bad but good exhaust smell.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 1:38 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
Amsoil is a true synthetic oil. Mobile-1 and the other oils you find at autozone that say "full synthetic" are actually a blend of synthetic and conventional oil. That's why you can get 20-25k miles out of amsoil and not the "full synthetic" brands.
It depends on ones definition of "Full Synthetic" because it is not a pure trade term of art and it is not codified in the US. It is easy to argue that Group III+ base oils are synthetic the severe hydrocracking (catalytic dewaxing) produces a much purer base oil then Group II oils and many consider them synthetic due to the processes involved even if they are derived from crude. If you want pure PAO base oil they are much more expensive.
Again my opinion is Group III+ base with a good additive package is more than adequate for most vehicles that do not see significant severe/extreme duty even with extended drains of 10-15k backed up by occasional used oil analysis from a place like Backstone. With most passenger car filters (even quality ones) you are risking bypass going longer than 15k on the drains and if I am replacing the filter I am just going to replace the oil. You can run a remote filter to use a larger or multiple filters but those carry their own risks.
One interesting, to me, note is different viscosities of many of the standard crank case oils have different base oil. You can see this for example in the M1 line by comparing the various MSDS.
This post was edited on 7/26/22 at 7:13 pm
Posted on 7/26/22 at 6:39 pm to RolltidePA
Bookmarked. 
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:09 pm to 0x15E
176,500 miles and not a single problem from the engine. Only thing I'll use.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 7:29 pm to Horsemeat
I have 217k on my f150 and have only used Mobil 1 synthetic since day one. No Motor or oil related issues yet. No sense in changing now
Posted on 7/26/22 at 8:18 pm to 0x15E
As someone said in their reply below high mileage oils have seal conditioner additives.
However... purely for the engine and moving components an oil that contains molybdenum is excellent for high mileage vehicles. Molybdenum is commonly referred to as Moly.
However... purely for the engine and moving components an oil that contains molybdenum is excellent for high mileage vehicles. Molybdenum is commonly referred to as Moly.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 8:19 pm to 0x15E
Buy expensive oil and cheap gas.
Posted on 7/26/22 at 8:28 pm to Tridentds
quote:
However... purely for the engine and moving components an oil that contains molybdenum is excellent for high mileage vehicles. Molybdenum is commonly referred to as Moly.
Most decent oil additive packages have MoDTC in them (you do NOT want MoS2) which is still around but usually found in separately packaged oil "treatments". MoDTC works best if the formula also contains ZDDP as they work synergistically.
Posted on 8/16/22 at 2:21 pm to Obtuse1
Watched this episode of Project Farm on YouTube and he compared four different oil blends. The Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic ran away with the tests. In previous tests, the only oil to outperform the Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic was the AMSoil Signature Series.
Just put the Pennzoil in my Jeep Wrangler.
Just put the Pennzoil in my Jeep Wrangler.
Posted on 8/16/22 at 2:37 pm to 0x15E
I’d stay away from the high mileage blends unless you are experiencing valve stem seal leaks or other problems you are hoping to rectify with the special additive package.
I do 5k oci and I have been happy with Kirkland synthetic from Costco. It gets good marks on bobistheoilguy and is made by Warren who packages many leading store brands.
I’ve never been a believer in the long oci’s. I’m not saying it can’t be done but you hear lots of horror stories with long oci’s and modern engines.
I just don’t think it’s worth the risk and the additional cost of a 5k oci with a brand like Kirkland isn’t much.
I do 5k oci and I have been happy with Kirkland synthetic from Costco. It gets good marks on bobistheoilguy and is made by Warren who packages many leading store brands.
I’ve never been a believer in the long oci’s. I’m not saying it can’t be done but you hear lots of horror stories with long oci’s and modern engines.
I just don’t think it’s worth the risk and the additional cost of a 5k oci with a brand like Kirkland isn’t much.
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