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Message
re: Scope Help- Explain this stuff to me like I'm five
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:49 am to Crawdaddy
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:49 am to Crawdaddy
quote:
Let us know when you take a deer with that fancy new scope that the old prosraff wouldn’t have
Pretty much any deer I kill with any new scope would be a deer that I couldn't have killed with the old prostaff...because despite about a dozen rounds over the course of an hour and countless clicks and corrections, the rounds were still consistently 6 inches plus high and 6 inches plus left. Even if I just accepted that and aimed low and right, I'm not going to shoot at a deer at a friends place (or any place) that I'm not sure I can kill.
This isn't an altruistic crusade for me, just trying to get a quality scope that allows me to take advantage of the guns capabilites.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:52 am to 257WBY
quote:
257WBY
quote:
LINK
This is extremely helpful. Point blank to me was always muzzle touching the target!
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:56 am to 257WBY
quote:
Meopta Optika 6 for $459 shipped
From?
Cause my wallet might take a $459 hit.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:11 am to RoIITide
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:14 am to Tiger Pants 318
quote:
This is extremely helpful. Point blank to me was always muzzle touching the target!
my advice, keep researching this topic and reading various articles to familiarize yourself with ballistics and terminology
the inet is loaded with free ballistics calculators so you will know the bullets trajectory/velocity at various yardages.
another MPBR article for review

Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:20 am to Got Blaze
Thanks. I hadn't found much in the way of scope terms for dummies out there so this has been good stuff.
Not to incite a riot on the OB, but how important are rings. I see these suckers going from between 30 and 500 bucks. I've had buddies laugh at the thought of buying expensive rings and others say "I dunno dude, I really like my custom gucci rings."
Not to incite a riot on the OB, but how important are rings. I see these suckers going from between 30 and 500 bucks. I've had buddies laugh at the thought of buying expensive rings and others say "I dunno dude, I really like my custom gucci rings."
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:24 am to Crawdaddy
quote:
Let us know when you take a deer with that fancy new scope that the old prosraff wouldn’t have Include the reasons. Interested to know
Is this where we pretend clearer glass is somehow useless? Late season it sure is nice to zoom in and see those nubs on that “doe”, and to positively ID a particular buck quick. Helpful to be able to see clearly right up to legal shooting light. Nice glass is just more enjoyable period. Better scopes have broader and more comfortable eye relief ranges, better field of view, and generally less bullshite around things changing at different zoom levels. Of all the shite people spend money on around hunting, it’s weird to flex on this one.
OP, I will say clarity beats magnification, especially if you’re not stretching out the distance. I find myself leaving a better scope at a lower power. From what you described you’re probably looking at 12x or 14x at the very most, and 9x would likely be more than fine.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:30 am to Tiger Pants 318
quote:
that allows me to take advantage of the guns capabilites.
I highly recommend you read this informative article on the 300 WSM and it's capabilities
4.5x14-40mm or 50mm will work for your application. Optic quality and "crystal clear" viewing of images are all about how the lenses are constructed, specifically the coatings applied to the lenses. The Germans and Austrians build superior quality optics, which usually comes at a cost but worth every penny
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:36 am to Tiger Pants 318
quote:
Appreciate any thoughts yall have.
The scope is a gun sight. Reliability is of absolute maximum importance and EVERYTHING else is secondary.
Looks at trijicon credo or tenmile, SWFA 3-9x42 or 3-15x42, and Nightforce. Those scopes cover a wide range of budgets and are absolutely reliable.
Piss on other features. Reliability. Don't worry about what all that other shite means, it's all flashy jargon to try to sell scopes.
Establish your budget, find a SWFA, Nightforce, or Trijicon that fits it, see which individual model tickles your pickle most, buy that, go kill shite.
Eta: I just saw your comment about actually using the rifles capabilities. A .300 wsm that shoots 1.5 MOA is a legitimate 800 yard elk squasher. Massive long range capability with the right loads. Maximizing that rifles capabilites requires a dialing first focal plane scope with a good usable reticle and absolutely reliable tracking. Any of the scopes I mentioned above and proper mounting will work. Basically all of that would make the man the limiting factor out well beyond any normal hunting ranges, which is all you can ask for.
This post was edited on 2/24/23 at 11:40 am
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:38 am to Tiger Pants 318
My favorite rings are Burris Signature,they’re i n the $50 range.
If I was buying a scope for 300 WSM I would buy a Leupold VX-5HD-2-10x42 with Firedot Duplex.The Fire Dot Reticle is very useful if a black hog comes out right at dark.
My 2’nd choice would be Leupold 3.5x10x40.
Ther are lots of good scopes but I’ve had good luck with Leupold,I have some 30+ years old that are still clear as a bell and holding zero.
chuckhawks.com has a lot of good articles about riflescopes.
If I was buying a scope for 300 WSM I would buy a Leupold VX-5HD-2-10x42 with Firedot Duplex.The Fire Dot Reticle is very useful if a black hog comes out right at dark.
My 2’nd choice would be Leupold 3.5x10x40.
Ther are lots of good scopes but I’ve had good luck with Leupold,I have some 30+ years old that are still clear as a bell and holding zero.
chuckhawks.com has a lot of good articles about riflescopes.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:41 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
You spend time on Rokslide. That scope guru over there drops some knowledge.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:48 am to Tiger Pants 318
quote:
but how important are rings. I see these suckers going from between 30 and 500 bucks.
IMO, rings are equally important and it helps to know what to buy. The Chinese have cloned & duplicated lots of quality American products only to flood the market with rings priced at $29.99. They look the same but QC and materials used for the product are shite. If someone has a $1000+ rifle, and $500+ scope, why would you even consider cheap arse rings/bases ? The common bond between the rifle and glass is the rings & bases. Buy quality once so your rifle set-up doesn't let you down when hunting a trophy of a lifetime. Lots of great options available .... I prefer ARC and Kelbly products only because I've been using them for years and have 100% confidence in the product.


Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:49 am to Tiger Pants 318
quote:
Not to incite a riot on the OB, but how important are rings. I see these suckers going from between 30 and 500
A lot of good info so far some of it is Chevy/ford and what a person likes.
For rings and bases a good set of tally or dnz all in one base and ring combo will do the trick for a hunting gun. So much of what you see now is aimed at the prc/long range crowd.
Even a plane Jane set of leupold all steel dove tail style will work and not lose zero.
If you want to kill deer slap a vx3 40mm on it with some tally rings zero it to be about 3in high at 100yd and you should never be able to blame your rig on the miss.
I have some rifles set up with dials and have practiced with them and am confident shooting them out to 500yd. The problem is when a deer steps across a pipeline bumping a doe at 325yd you don’t have time to range and dial, but you do have time to just put it on the shoulder and squeeze. A gun zeroed in for max point blank range will suffice for 98% of the shots 98% of the time.
This post was edited on 2/24/23 at 12:09 pm
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:54 am to 257WBY
Yep. That guy rewired my thinking completely and I'm utterly ashamed of myself that I didn't already think that way.
It's a gun sight. Why do we worry about clarity and light gathering more than whether or not the bullet will land where the crosshairs are??? Why did I spend so many years of my life thinking that having to check zero and tweak zeros was normal? Why did I think that having to tap on turrets, or having to baby my rifle was normal?
Now I just aim and shoot. Bullet goes to same place. I twist turrets and twist them back and my rifle is still zeroed. I shoot at the end of the season and my zero hasn't changed from beginning of season.
It's like I've seen the light.
It's a gun sight. Why do we worry about clarity and light gathering more than whether or not the bullet will land where the crosshairs are??? Why did I spend so many years of my life thinking that having to check zero and tweak zeros was normal? Why did I think that having to tap on turrets, or having to baby my rifle was normal?
Now I just aim and shoot. Bullet goes to same place. I twist turrets and twist them back and my rifle is still zeroed. I shoot at the end of the season and my zero hasn't changed from beginning of season.
It's like I've seen the light.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 1:33 pm to Tiger Pants 318
I won’t saw it the best scope money can buy but I do believe that the Leupold vx5-hd 3-15x44 is one of the best scopes you can get for hunting.
I have 2 and always will recommend them.
Several others here have the same scope and will recommend as well.
I have 2 and always will recommend them.
Several others here have the same scope and will recommend as well.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 1:58 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Do you have experience with the trijicon ten mile? I’m looking at that or a nightforce for my 300 win mag.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 2:06 pm to Deltachessie
Posted on 2/24/23 at 2:21 pm to Deltachessie
I do not, 2nd hand only.
I highly recommend reading the rokslide optics forum. There's some great data-backed reliability reviews on there of various scopes. Trijicon tenmile is one of the few that gets the thumbs up from those guys.
I highly recommend reading the rokslide optics forum. There's some great data-backed reliability reviews on there of various scopes. Trijicon tenmile is one of the few that gets the thumbs up from those guys.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 2:40 pm to Tiger Pants 318
Max point blank range is the maximum distance in which you can hold dead on the center of the kill zone and not hit outside of it. Imagine shooting down the center of an 8" pipe and letting your bullet barley touch the top of it and then the distance at which it touches the bottom would be your max point blank range (MPBR).
I recently went on a deer hunt in Oklahoma where the shots could be out to 400. I sighted in my .280 Remington 3" high at 100 yds. This made my max point blank range assuming an 8" kill zone 325 yds. The highest point of my bullet's trajectory was 3.8" at 150 yds it dropped down to 4" low at 325 yds. At 350yds I would be about 7" low and 14" low at 400. My scope is only a 3x9x 40. I killed 3 deer out there between 150 and 240 yds. 9 power was more than sufficient. I wasn't going to shoot past my MPBR as I had no way to practice it. I did practice at 300 and was comfortable at that distance. I normally hunt in woods and keep my rifle sighted in 1.5" at 100 yds. This gives me more accuracy for close shots through branches and still allows me to be well tight to my aiming point out to 250. Again, I have practiced this.
Ron Spomer has some great videos on this. He is a good source of knowledge: Sighting in For Most Effective Range
Lets assume you will be shooting Barnes factory 150 grain ammo out of your 300 Win Mag. Sighting in 2" high at 100 yards will keep you well within the killzone out to 325 yds. Sighing in 3" high at 100 for a western hunt would get you a MPBR of abut 365yds. At 385 yds you will only be 6" low, still well within the killzone on a nice buck or elk. Your bullet will hit a 4" peak at 200 yds. I am basing this off a ballistics calculator. You still have to shoot it to find out. You may get better trajectory or you may get worse.
Lastly you will also hear a lot about ballistics coefficients. You don't need to worry too much about that either. Bullet weight, construction, and terminal performance are all more important. Ballistic coefficients change day to day and even while a bullet is in flight. They are just a good guess at how much drag your bullet will encounter. It is not a constant. Barnes bullets or Bonded bullets best for hunting. Burger bullets and some others despite their marketing are not hunting bullets. They are target bullets that can and will explode on impact. Sometimes the deer drops, sometimes the deer gets wounded. Massive meat loss is also a problem with the new ultra high BC bullets. You don't need them.
I recently went on a deer hunt in Oklahoma where the shots could be out to 400. I sighted in my .280 Remington 3" high at 100 yds. This made my max point blank range assuming an 8" kill zone 325 yds. The highest point of my bullet's trajectory was 3.8" at 150 yds it dropped down to 4" low at 325 yds. At 350yds I would be about 7" low and 14" low at 400. My scope is only a 3x9x 40. I killed 3 deer out there between 150 and 240 yds. 9 power was more than sufficient. I wasn't going to shoot past my MPBR as I had no way to practice it. I did practice at 300 and was comfortable at that distance. I normally hunt in woods and keep my rifle sighted in 1.5" at 100 yds. This gives me more accuracy for close shots through branches and still allows me to be well tight to my aiming point out to 250. Again, I have practiced this.
Ron Spomer has some great videos on this. He is a good source of knowledge: Sighting in For Most Effective Range
Lets assume you will be shooting Barnes factory 150 grain ammo out of your 300 Win Mag. Sighting in 2" high at 100 yards will keep you well within the killzone out to 325 yds. Sighing in 3" high at 100 for a western hunt would get you a MPBR of abut 365yds. At 385 yds you will only be 6" low, still well within the killzone on a nice buck or elk. Your bullet will hit a 4" peak at 200 yds. I am basing this off a ballistics calculator. You still have to shoot it to find out. You may get better trajectory or you may get worse.
Lastly you will also hear a lot about ballistics coefficients. You don't need to worry too much about that either. Bullet weight, construction, and terminal performance are all more important. Ballistic coefficients change day to day and even while a bullet is in flight. They are just a good guess at how much drag your bullet will encounter. It is not a constant. Barnes bullets or Bonded bullets best for hunting. Burger bullets and some others despite their marketing are not hunting bullets. They are target bullets that can and will explode on impact. Sometimes the deer drops, sometimes the deer gets wounded. Massive meat loss is also a problem with the new ultra high BC bullets. You don't need them.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 2:49 pm to mrcoon
quote:
shooting down the center of an 8" pipe and letting your bullet barley touch the top of it and then the distance at which it touches the bottom
Got it. Will give this a try this weekend. Is there a particular kind of 8'' pipe you recommend I shoot down?
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