re: Is it too early to start discussing yard maintenence for 2017 yet?

What are your thoughts on thatch. How can I determine if I need to de thatch?

Also what is your thoughts on the first cut after the dormant stage. I cut high and leave high through winter. Should I do a much lower cut to get out some of the dead blades? My back yard is greening up fast and growing the front is mostly brown still.

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Apply Greenlight Crabgrass Preventer;
Sta-Green Crab-ex, Greenlight
Crabgrass Preventer 2, Hi-Yield
Dimension; Scott’s Halts; Balan, Barricade... now through the end of Feb for crabgrass and goosegrass prevention.

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apply all of these? or just pick one.

Pick one. I like to give options for those that don't have an applicator's license to buy restricted chemicals.

As far as thatch, it's not something most of you will have issues with. It contributes N to the soil, and aids in soil water retention. If you can physically feel "sponginess" on the lawn, you may need to de-thatch. If you question it, try to measure the thickness of the thatch layer. You can get away with up to 1/2 - 3/4" of thatch before adverse effects set in.
(If you have Centipede, consider 1/2" your max. I can further explain if needed.)


Cutting high in the winter gives the roots a layer of insulation from freezing temps. I'm not convinced we are out of the woods as far as cold temps go, so I would be hesitant to scalp down any turf just yet. On my Bermuda sports fields, I adhere to a 3 & 150 as my benchmark for considering it as actively growing: 3 consecutive days of the daytime high and nighttime low adding up to 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
But yes, start low on the first cut of the spring, and after that follow the one-third rule: never cut off more than one third of the grass blades in a single cutting.

Mason sand, or "fill" sand if you don't mind small pebbles. Add an inch or so at a time, letting the grass grow through some with each layer (so you don't smother it). Bad deep spots, like an old stump hole, can be filled with topsoil. Use sand to finish off as the dirt settles.

Soil temps need to be at least in the upper 60s and steady to plant seed. Newly planted seed requires light but frequent applications of water to keep the seedlings moist without washing away. Reduce watering as the second and third leaves become visible.

With sod, water less each week until the sod is considered established, which is after the third week. After that, it’s water as needed.

WeedFreeZone (a less potent version of Trimec) is a selective broadleaf herbicide. So naturally something with a wider leaf like Centipede will be more sensitive to it than a fine leaf like Bermuda. So, yes, the application rates are different.

I'm not certain it comes on a hose-end type sprayer. I know the concentrate can be found at most hardware type stores.

Spot treatment or broadcast treatment really depends on how widespread your weed infestation is. Small patches of clover are easily spot treated, but large areas of lespedeza would need broadcast treatment. It's really up to you.

Can any baws tell me when would be the best time to seed for Bermuda? I'm trying to repair spots from the flood debris sitting on the lawn.

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best time to seed for Bermuda

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wait till the lows are above 65 and highs in 80's

or you could get one of these

LINK

i used this for centipede on my front lawn,and used the grass along the fence line to go in the front.

going to use this to accelerate my backyard bermuda conversion.

What's best way to dethatch St augustine? I've seen multiple things online and some of it conflicts. I bought a mower blade (push mower) with these plastic teeth that hang down last year but didn't use it because I read after that it wouldn't work for St Aug which on the reviews it said it was good for it lol

Not looking forward to doing it by hand but if I have to I have to I guess. Yard is 15 years old and in decent shape but it could be better. Does have some areas of thick thatch